2018/19 VC Owners Thread

[RandyBoBandy]

Doesn't seem to matter where the air is set. Even all the way closed I get those temps, always have flames in the box no matter what. I actually think I get higher temps the more I close the air once it's going well, almost seems as though running the stove hotter burns more smoke before it gets to the catalyst.

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Whatstove are you running? Generally yes, lowering primary air will raise cat temps. Have you checked your gaskets? With your primary closed I don’t think you should be seeing any primary fire. How tall is your flue?

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Mine does the same thing... usually calms down after a bit and settles around 1400. But like you I always spike up to 1500-1600.

My alarm is set for 1800. And has never gone off during overnight sleep. But I do get spikes overnight too.

If it were me I would lower my alarm to 1550 or 1600. At 1800 you have already let your stove enter the danger zone for cats.

 

[Gnanneb86]

Whatstove are you running? Generally yes, lowering primary air will raise cat temps. Have you checked your gaskets? With your primary closed I don’t think you should be seeing any primary fire. How tall is your flue?

Defiant flexburn model 1975, purchased new in 2016

Gaskets are all good using a dollar bill, but none have been replaced since new.

Really? No flame at all? If I don't have flame it usually means it's stalling and temps start getting too low all around.

Flue is about 17' above stove top, it is a little low using the 10' away 2' above rule, it's about the same height as the roof 10 ft away but tech looked and said it seemed to have okay draft and not to worry about the height. It's also a large oval insulated liner installed inside 8x12 tile that would be very difficult to extend at all.

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[RandyBoBandy]

I

Defiant flexburn model 1975, purchased new in 2016

Gaskets are all good using a dollar bill, but none have been replaced since new.

Really? No flame at all? If I don't have flame it usually means it's stalling and temps start getting too low all around.

Flue is about 17' above stove top, it is a little low using the 10' away 2' above rule, it's about the same height as the roof 10 ft away but tech looked and said it seemed to have okay draft and not to worry about the height. It's also a large oval insulated liner installed inside 8x12 tile that would be very difficult to extend at all.

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is the liner insulated?

 

[Gnanneb86]

I

is the liner insulated?

Yes, insulated with a vermiculite substance packed around the liner between it and the tile.

I also don't get the best burn times even though the wood is at 18 percent, maybe 8 hrs or so. And if I'm home during the day I just run half loads because the stove is so much happier with less wood it seems.

Recently I was having trouble with back puffing and finally had the tech come out and look, he seemed to think I just wasn't getting the stove hot enough before closing the damper. Now getting the fire hotter has mitigated the back puffing but cat sounds like it's out of control on a full load of wood.

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[Diabel]

Yes, insulated with a vermiculite substance packed around the liner between it and the tile.

I also don't get the best burn times even though the wood is at 18 percent, maybe 8 hrs or so. And if I'm home during the day I just run half loads because the stove is so much happier with less wood it seems.

Recently I was having trouble with back puffing and finally had the tech come out and look, he seemed to think I just wasn't getting the stove hot enough before closing the damper. Now getting the fire hotter has mitigated the back puffing but cat sounds like it's out of control on a full load of wood.

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How are you testing your wood moisture?

 

[Gnanneb86]

How are you testing your wood moisture?

Harbor freight moisture meter, and the tech that was there tested with his higher end meter as well. We split 3 different pieces while he was there, harbor freight was reading 2 to 3 percent dryer than his...

It was a tech from a different dealer that does not offer Vermont Castings and knew nothing about the stove either, they sell quadra fire and osburn mostly. The dealer that installed the stove is actually a local ace hardware store. We started getting frustrated with the defiant and looking at a new stove.

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[frased]

This does not make sense.

If it were me I would lower my alarm to 1550 or 1600. At 1800 you have already let your stove enter the danger zone for cats.

I actually got the 1800 alarm idea from this forum.

If I set it to 1600 I’d be alarming every day unfortunately. During the spikes.

 

[Kevin Weis]

I'm thinking your primary air damper is out of adjustment. May have come from the factory that way. My Encore primary air would not close all the way when I got it. Had about 3/16" gap still when the lever was closed all the way. Manual says when lever is in closed position the primary air flap should be closed all the way (flap resting against it's frame). So I adjusted it and I have no flames in the closed position. Maybe it is or is not your problem, just saying. What is sort of contradictory here is that in another part of the manual it says/eludes to an EPA required minimal closed position. So the question is I guess, which is it?

 

[Gnanneb86]

I actually got the 1800 alarm idea from this forum.

If I set it to 1600 I’d be alarming every day unfortunately. During the spikes.

Also my thought has always been...the alarm goes off because it's at 1800 but then what? Do you open the damper with the stove cruising at 650 to cool the cat? With a full load of wood I feel like that situation could get out of control easy.

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[Gnanneb86]

I'm thinking your primary air damper is out of adjustment. May have come from the factory that way. My Encore primary air would not close all the way when I got it. Had about 3/16" gap still when the lever was closed all the way. Manual says when lever is in closed position the primary air flap should be closed all the way (flap resting against it's frame). So I adjusted it and I have no flames in the closed position. Maybe it is or is not your problem, just saying. What is sort of contradictory here is that in another part of the manual it says/eludes to an EPA required minimal closed position. So the question is I guess, which is it?

Should it be closed all the way when hot or cold?

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[Kevin Weis]

I adjusted mine at room temperature . My understanding is you should just hear it close (clank) when its moved to the fully closed position. I'm assuming that the thermostat would interfere with the adjustment if the stove were "active". But you know what happens when you assume. something.

 

[Kevin Weis]

Should it be closed all the way when hot or cold?

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Should add I don't think it makes much of a difference adjusting it hot or cold but others here are more well versed in this than I and can comment.

 

[Gnanneb86]

Should add I don't think it makes much of a difference adjusting it hot or cold but others here are more well versed in this than I and can comment.

Yeah I was just thinking if anything the thermostat would shut it further once closed all the way correct? I just looked tonight while it was warm and there is maybe 1/8 inch or so when all the way closed.

The stove runs great when hot and when air is open. But it's a night mare to get a slow long burn.

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[Kevin Weis]

Well, I'm seriously considering being done with my Encore. This stove is just too finicky to get it to run right with no back puffing. Tonite right after chimney was cleaned today had a small load of moderate size oak splits burning half throttle with the cat engaged then flames die down for some reason, then no flames, then puff. I think the draft should have been well sufficient through the cat that this should not occur. I just don't get it. I think the down draft design to the cat promotes this unless you have a way above average draft. So with this said I may consider the Intrepid for my needs or a small/medium size Jotul. The stove is in an 11' X 13' room with an open doorway (3 X 7) into the older part of the farmhouse. I need a strange animal, a stove that won't overheat a room to run well and for the fire to last about 6 hours. Is there such a thin? Going to the stove dealer to figure it out tomorrow.

 

[Diabel]

Well, I'm seriously considering being done with my Encore. This stove is just too finicky to get it to run right with no back puffing. Tonite right after chimney was cleaned today had a small load of moderate size oak splits burning half throttle with the cat engaged then flames die down for some reason, then no flames, then puff. I think the draft should have been well sufficient through the cat that this should not occur. I just don't get it. I think the down draft design to the cat promotes this unless you have a way above average draft. So with this said I may consider the Intrepid for my needs or a small/medium size Jotul. The stove is in an 11' X 13' room with an open doorway (3 X 7) into the older part of the farmhouse. I need a strange animal, a stove that won't overheat a room to run well and for the fire to last about 6 hours. Is there such a thin? Going to the stove dealer to figure it out tomorrow.

Are you reducing primary air in increments?

Many here found out that is you reduce the primary air too quickly the VCs will puff.

9 out of 10 puffing is caused by user error.

 

[frased]

I'm thinking your primary air damper is out of adjustment. May have come from the factory that way. My Encore primary air would not close all the way when I got it. Had about 3/16" gap still when the lever was closed all the way. Manual says when lever is in closed position the primary air flap should be closed all the way (flap resting against it's frame). So I adjusted it and I have no flames in the closed position. Maybe it is or is not your problem, just saying. What is sort of contradictory here is that in another part of the manual it says/eludes to an EPA required minimal closed position. So the question is I guess, which is it?

I’m going to adjust mine. Sometimes I feel like that “clank” isn’t present unless I move the air control in a fast motion.

Any tips on adjustment? Looks easy enough anyway.

 

[Kevin Weis]

If it clanks when you turn the lever quickly then it's closing. Should have added quickly above.

 

[Kevin Weis]

Are you reducing primary air in increments?

Many here found out that is you reduce the primary air too quickly the VCs will puff.

9 out of 10 puffing is caused by user error.

I do open full to about half way. Should be smaller increments than that?

 

[Diabel]

I do open full to about half way. Should be smaller increments than that?

If you find that your can completely snuff out the flame with primary air closed at 50% (lever pointing directly down), then from 0 to 50 I would try say three increments (play around with it). Do not go past 50% since you already know it will puff. Does that make sense?

 

[Dobish]

i normally go a quarter at a time, and that seems to help.

 

[Kevin Weis]

Okay I got the Auber AT100 with the WRNK-191 probe. The thermometer came with the three pin connector and the probe has the spade connector. The two don't seem to connect directly easily so the question is what two wires on the probe (red & yellow) connect to what connections on the pin connecter? Can some post a picture of the connection? Did I order the wrong connector accessory? Thanks.

 

[Kevin Weis]

Never mind I found instructions on they're web page.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Okay I got the Auber AT100 with the WRNK-191 probe. The thermometer came with the three pin connector and the probe has the spade connector. The two don't seem to connect directly easily so the question is what two wires on the probe (red & yellow) connect to what connections on the pin connecter? Can some post a picture of the connection? Did I order the wrong connector accessory? Thanks.

I believe you are suppose to cut the spade off and wire the green connector on. The website has the instructions for this. My probe is from condar so I don’t believe the colors match up.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Never mind I found instructions on they're web page.

We must have been typing at the same time. As far back puffs. I use to experience this when I first got my stove. It just takes some time to figure it out. It’s very rare I have them anymore. Good wood, good draft and experience will remedy this. Like diabel was saying, smaller increments and know the lowest setting you can use before snuffing the fire. When my chimney was short and 8” I could not close the primary all the way either. I can now with a taller 6 inch.