2019-20 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

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From May: These are from a different dealer. +shipping.

King parlar 3495 door
Princess 3195
Asford 30 3995
Chinook 30 4295
Sirico 30 3495
 
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From May: These are from a different dealer. +shipping.
King parlar 3495 door
Princess 3195
Asford 30 3995
Chinook 30 4295
Sirico 30 3495

Wow! Those are some of the highest prices I’ve ever seen. I paid something like $2900 for my Ashford 30’s. Another $200 for delivery to my hearth.

More typical quotes at the time were $3400/ea.
 
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@chemie , yes pitch burns black, even after is is dried out, inside the firebox, but a hot and hungry combustor should reward you with a clean plume and a warm wife. I counsel caution in filling the box with that much surface area using KD lumber only. Using "some" KD lumber to cocktail your black locust to get the average MC down to or less than 20% is good, but having dry cord wood is a lot easier in the long run.

@ratsrepus , I got five years out of my door gasket.
thanks
 
Prices have gone up every year. Some dealers show misleading prices too, some don’t include the door, pedestal, shipping... etc.
It can be very misleading, just be aware of that when price shopping.
 
Hi all I am hoping someone here can tell me what terrible thing is going on in these photos. This is a Princess new about 4 years ago.
I took the stove pipe off so I could vacuum the area behind the cat like I do every fall and when I looked In I see this. Does anyone know what is going on here? There appears to be a piece of thin gauge? plate steel fallen off from something it don't look good.
 

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Hi all I am hoping someone here can tell me what terrible thing is going on in these photos. This is a Princess new about 4 years ago.
I took the stove pipe off so I could vacuum the area behind the cat like I do every fall and when I looked In I see this. Does anyone know what is going on here? There appears to be a piece of thin gauge? plate steel fallen off from something it don't look good.
That is one of 2 bypass plate retainers. In order for this to be out of place, the combustor must have been removed. Easy fix....contact me by PM.
 
Wow! Those are some of the highest prices I’ve ever seen. I paid something like $2900 for my Ashford 30’s. Another $200 for delivery to my hearth.

More typical quotes at the time were $3400/ea.
Yep. That is why I have a summers heat now. Figured that thing will do well enough for a number of years till I can find a good used Bk or find a decent deal on a new one.
 
I found that buying them in pairs gives one a little more leverage on pricing. Find a buddy who wants one!
 
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I've been ignoring the fact that the latch on my Ashford 30's get looser each year. I've tried the dollar bill trick to test the gasket, which was always easy to do on my Jotuls, but the decorative castings on my Ashford grab the bill and make it feel tight even when I know it must be loose.

How do you guys determine how tight to make the latch on your Ashford 30's?
 
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I will be tightening the latch on my Princess before this burning season starts. When the stove was new the latch was very tight/snug. After a very light usage during the burning season I now can easily latch the door with my pinky. I believe it will be a two minute job to tighten it.
 
I will be tightening the latch on my Princess before this burning season starts. When the stove was new the latch was very tight/snug. After a very light usage during the burning season I now can easily latch the door with my pinky. I believe it will be a two minute job to tighten it.
It’s a good idea to tighten it. But first just for fun, do a dollar bill test. With the knife edge seal, I bet it still seals up good.
 
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just done the dollar bill test, second season now, seal just as new. dont know if it make any difference but i keep the door close without any pressure on the latch during off season.
 
In more interesting news, I dragged home another 5000 - 6000 lb of oak and hickory today. I’ve honestly lost count of how many trailer loads I’ve moved this summer, it’s been 2-4 loads per week since mid-June. This one includes a 22” dia x 15 foot stick of the densest white oak I’ve ever cut, it must have weighed close to 3000 lb, my tractor had a heck of a time dragging it off the trailer.

Sorry, forgot to get photos of this load, an old repeat will need to substitute. The pile in that first photo has doubled in size, since the photo was taken, and now there’s three piles of nearly the same size.

View attachment 246524View attachment 246525

A photo from Sweden:

20190903_163240.jpg
 
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It’s a good idea to tighten it. But first just for fun, do a dollar bill test. With the knife edge seal, I bet it still seals up good.

Yes, I will and I am pretty sure it seals fine still. Will report.

Thanks
 
Interesting translation. The Swedes use Kr (Krona) but the penalties are translated to Deutsche Marks. I remember as a kid living overseas, 4 Marks = 1 US Dollar. So basically a good beer was .50 cents....I know because my grandfather sent me to the market to get the beer.....and it was good because he also shared a bit with me!
 
Interesting translation. The Swedes use Kr (Krona) but the penalties are translated to Deutsche Marks. I remember as a kid living overseas, 4 Marks = 1 US Dollar. So basically a good beer was .50 cents....I know because my grandfather sent me to the market to get the beer.....and it was good because he also shared a bit with me!
Hey Mr BKVP, a couple of us were wondering how you tighten up the door on our ashfords. Whats the trick
 
Hey Mr BKVP, a couple of us were wondering how you tighten up the door on our ashfords. Whats the trick
1) Remove cat therm
2) Remove bypass handle
3) Lift top off and set aside
4) Take 3/8" open end wrench and substantially loosen two bolt at top holding side casting. There are two at bottom, but we do not tighten them, they are used as locators
5) Lift off side, set aside
6) You'll see the very simple way to adjust from there

PS I have done this enough times and now can do it in under 10 min. Note, mark the door adjustment bracket where studs and nuts are BEFORE you loosen nuts, open door, loosen nuts and move back the latch bracket about 1/4". Secure and check tension....

Then go in reverse order 6-1.
 
1) Remove cat therm
2) Remove bypass handle
3) Lift top off and set aside
4) Take 3/8" open end wrench and substantially loosen two bolt at top holding side casting. There are two at bottom, but we do not tighten them, they are used as locators
5) Lift off side, set aside
6) You'll see the very simple way to adjust from there

PS I have done this enough times and now can do it in under 10 min. Note, mark the door adjustment bracket where studs and nuts are BEFORE you loosen nuts, open door, loosen nuts and move back the latch bracket about 1/4". Secure and check tension....

Then go in reverse order 6-1.
Or save yourself a heap of time and trade it in for a Princess!
 
Potential jokes about odor aside, my Ashford is just a prettier Princess. I’m not trading them for anything, today!
Firebox shape and depth are different, not to mention the heavy cast iron jacket.
 
1) Remove cat therm
2) Remove bypass handle
3) Lift top off and set aside
4) Take 3/8" open end wrench and substantially loosen two bolt at top holding side casting. There are two at bottom, but we do not tighten them, they are used as locators
5) Lift off side, set aside
6) You'll see the very simple way to adjust from there

PS I have done this enough times and now can do it in under 10 min. Note, mark the door adjustment bracket where studs and nuts are BEFORE you loosen nuts, open door, loosen nuts and move back the latch bracket about 1/4". Secure and check tension....

Then go in reverse order 6-1.

thanks for the info
 
Firebox shape and depth are different, not to mention the heavy cast iron jacket.
I’m very aware of the differences... been there done that. Don’t plan on going back either..
 
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