2021/22 VC Owner thread

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What is the operating temp range of the cat? What do you do when it goes over the recommended high temp? Open the bypass?

I'm having my first real burn today and engaged the cat. The temp on the stove has been showing 450 most of the day.

It's in the 30s today but the house is 77. How do you all keep the stove at a lower temp so not to heat us out? Keep the primary air on low. Small incremental loads of wood? Don't engage the cat?
I like to keep the cat between 1200-1450. I have my alarm set to 1550. If you are hitting 1700 on the regular than you will be replacing a lot of cats. I think the coating on the cat starts to deteriorate around 1600. In this shoulder season weather smaller fires will keep the house tolerable. This in turn means you are splitting a lot kindling and starting a lot of fires, however, your glass will be cleaner and your flue cleaner as well. I do admit though that I will fill the stove half way and turn it way down once the cat is up to temp. This will give me enough coals for the evening fire. If it gets to hot in the house you can always open the windows and dump some heat.
 
Good advice!! I installed my probe on my brand new encore 4 days ago and even when I gently poked the probe through it made a chunk the size of a dime and thickness of 2 dimes (roughly) fall off the inside. No mention in the manual to be careful of this!!
Oops. Yes definitely use a light twisting motion with your fingers and drill the hole. It’s a 1/4” bit as well.
 
Update since sealing off the secondary air:

WOW. This is exactly what I needed. My cat temps peak around 1450 and are usually cruising around 1300 - 1350. I am also getting at least 2 hours more on each burn time. It seems like the coals last much longer for some reason. I have had a couple spikes where temp went up to around 1600, but hardly over. In the past, these spikes would likely show temps around 1750. What surprises me the most is how little I have had to change running the stove. I can still shut down primary just as quickly as before, it just has more effect on the cat temps. I was worried about stalling the cat by not leaving air open long enough but I have not had any sort of problems in this area.

Thanks for the help all.
 
Update since sealing off the secondary air:
WOW. This is exactly what I needed. My cat temps peak around 1450 and are usually cruising around 1300 - 1350. I am also getting at least 2 hours more on each burn time. It seems like the coals last much longer for some reason. I have had a couple spikes where temp went up to around 1600, but hardly over. In the past, these spikes would likely show temps around 1750. What surprises me the most is how little I have had to change running the stove. I can still shut down primary just as quickly as before, it just has more effect on the cat temps. I was worried about stalling the cat by not leaving air open long enough but I have not had any sort of problems in this area.

Thanks for the help all.
The biggest difference I noticed (other than no nuclear cat) was outside. Still no smoke out the chimney but I can smell wood smoke smell when the wind is blowing right. Before there was no smell outside.
 
Update since sealing off the secondary air:

The biggest difference I noticed (other than no nuclear cat) was outside. Still no smoke out the chimney but I can smell wood smoke smell when the wind is blowing right. Before there was no smell outside.
Definitely agree with this. I even noticed more smoke than usual during some of the burns, but the cat is at temps around 1300. Not sure if this is a bad sign but if it keeps me from destroying the CAT, its definitely the better option.
 
Blocking off the secondary air really helped, I cranked down on the pivot screw so it can't move and now I can now have flame in the firebox without the cat overheating. I noticed before I did this that I could hear air sucking around the metal flapper even when the automatic thermostat closed it. Before the stovetop would be in the low 300's with a cat temp like this:
temps.png
 
Blocking off the secondary air really helped, I cranked down on the pivot screw so it can't move and now I can now have flame in the firebox without the cat overheating. I noticed before I did this that I could hear air sucking around the metal flapper even when the automatic thermostat closed it. Before the stovetop would be in the low 300's with a cat temp like this:
View attachment 286384
Which therm you using? Wife’s been complaining about seeing the AT100.
 
29E2BE93-C75B-47B1-8852-42514EA39A2B.jpeg
So this will be my public service announcement for the day. If you let the wires touch at the connector that will be your new reference point, not the probe under the cat. <>
I though I had major cat problems but it was just an issue with twisted wire.
 
I never ran my Resolute stove when my grandchildren came to visit, but now that they're older and more responsible I want to be able to have a fire and also provide a margin of safety, so I bought for my new Dauntless a pair of Pleasant Hearth Classic Fireplace Screens and a set of four Lift Off Detachable Stainless Steel Hinges to connect the two screens. This only protects against an accidental stumble - a determined child can still reach the hot stovepipe and stove top.

Of course this works only for a top-loading stove like the Dauntless. The stove controls are accessible inside the screens. I put the screens away when the little people go home.

P.S. When I bought the Dauntless I also bought an infrared thermometer gun which tells me that the old Rutland thermometer has outlived its useful life.

t1.jpg
 
I'm hoping for some help with my VC Dauntless. I've had it for a little over a year and I've had many woodstoves before this one but I just can't seem to get it running right. Despite almost closing off the air intake the stove always seems to get into a state of overfiring +650 degrees. Even with the air intake almost off and the damper closed the stove still runs too hot. In addition no matter how I set the air the front glass is completely black after only a few hours. And it is almost impossible to clean. I have good quality kiln dried wood. I watch the stove for at least the first hour trying to keep the heat down to 500-600. But whatever I do it ends up over-firing. I cannot figure out what is going on. Any ideas? Thanks!
 
View attachment 286398
So this will be my public service announcement for the day. If you let the wires touch at the connector that will be your new reference point, not the probe under the cat. <>
I though I had major cat problems but it was just an issue with twisted wire.
Correct. You will get all sort of funky readings if the wires are touching or not tight in the connector.
 
I never ran my Resolute stove when my grandchildren came to visit, but now that they're older and more responsible I want to be able to have a fire and also provide a margin of safety, so I bought for my new Dauntless a pair of Pleasant Hearth Classic Fireplace Screens and a set of four Lift Off Detachable Stainless Steel Hinges to connect the two screens. This only protects against an accidental stumble - a determined child can still reach the hot stovepipe and stove top.

Of course this works only for a top-loading stove like the Dauntless. The stove controls are accessible inside the screens. I put the screens away when the little people go home.

P.S. When I bought the Dauntless I also bought an infrared thermometer gun which tells me that the old Rutland thermometer has outlived its useful life.

View attachment 286429
Can you post a link to the screens? I'm having a Dauntless installed in my living room and that looks like a good set up to keep my 18 mo old son away.
 
I'm hoping for some help with my VC Dauntless. I've had it for a little over a year and I've had many woodstoves before this one but I just can't seem to get it running right. Despite almost closing off the air intake the stove always seems to get into a state of overfiring +650 degrees. Even with the air intake almost off and the damper closed the stove still runs too hot. In addition no matter how I set the air the front glass is completely black after only a few hours. And it is almost impossible to clean. I have good quality kiln dried wood. I watch the stove for at least the first hour trying to keep the heat down to 500-600. But whatever I do it ends up over-firing. I cannot figure out what is going on. Any ideas? Thanks!
You must have an air leak somewhere. Now the tough part is trying to locate it. I would start with making sure the gaskets are all in good shape. You can do the dollar bill test to help check your gasket seals.
 
Can you post a link to the screens? I'm having a Dauntless installed in my living room and that looks like a good set up to keep my 18 mo old son away.
I had a bad experience 30+ years ago with a child the age of your son who crawled behind my single fireplace screen, which is why I wanted a double screen for my new stove. My daughter touched the stove with one finger only, and her finger healed quickly - I was lucky.
I worry that your 18-month-old may be too young and too fast to be near a hot stove; my grandchildren are now 3-5 years old and can follow instructions.
You may want a bigger screen mounted securely to the wall... my fasteners weren't as secure as I thought, 30 years ago.

Pleasant Hearth Classic Fireplace Screen, Black
Amazon product ASIN B00N8TTE6G (as of now you need to click on a link to buy from vendors other than Amazon)

LC LICTOP 2.5 inch 3 Hole Flag Hinge Lift Off Detachable Stainless Steel Hinges 4 Pcs
Amazon product ASIN B088843XMZThe screws supplied were too long; I went to my local hardware store and bought 24 flat-head sheet metal screws, 3/8" long.

I marked hinge positions on each screen with a pencil and used a metal punch to dimple the metal before drilling.
If you go with a lift-off hinge you want to make sure one screen gets all the hinge halves with pins facing up so that the other screen can be dropped onto it.
 
Thanks, the primary issue with a direct wall mount screen is that I have a 6" high by 4" deep sill behind where the stove will be. I was thinking about bringing a screen to a welding shop and having them cut something out to my dimensions so I can secure it around the sill. Appreciate your input.

How are you liking the Dauntless?
 
I'm hoping for some help with my VC Dauntless. I've had it for a little over a year and I've had many woodstoves before this one but I just can't seem to get it running right. Despite almost closing off the air intake the stove always seems to get into a state of overfiring +650 degrees. Even with the air intake almost off and the damper closed the stove still runs too hot. In addition no matter how I set the air the front glass is completely black after only a few hours. And it is almost impossible to clean. I have good quality kiln dried wood. I watch the stove for at least the first hour trying to keep the heat down to 500-600. But whatever I do it ends up over-firing. I cannot figure out what is going on. Any ideas? Thanks!
I have a Dauntless…I have not had issues with overfiring, but the glass does seem to get dirty easily. Maybe check the ash pan door and make sure it’s got a good seal. That seems to be an issue with this particular stove. Hopefully it’s just a simple fix…try lighting a lighter and running the flame along all the doors to see if your gaskets are tight. If there’s a leak it will suck the flame in. Good luck!
 
Which therm you using? Wife’s been complaining about seeing the AT100.
I built it myself with an ESP32 microcontroller and four MAX31855 thermocouple amplifiers with thermocouples from auber. I couldn't find anybody selling what I wanted. It connects to my wifi so I can remotely check on the temperatures on a computer or my phone while I'm away and graphs everything. The button at the bottom silences the alarms for 20 seconds and the display blinks to show which probe is overtemperature. I don't have a fourth thermocouple hooked up to it right now so I just made it display 'wood'. I was thinking of changing it so it scrolls 'feed me' or something when the temperature drops.
PXL_20211106_043018035.jpg
 
I built it myself with an ESP32 microcontroller and four MAX31855 thermocouple amplifiers with thermocouples from auber. I couldn't find anybody selling what I wanted. It connects to my wifi so I can remotely check on the temperatures on a computer or my phone while I'm away and graphs everything. The button at the bottom silences the alarms for 20 seconds and the display blinks to show which probe is overtemperature. I don't have a fourth thermocouple hooked up to it right now so I just made it display 'wood'. I was thinking of changing it so it scrolls 'feed me' or something when the temperature drops.
View attachment 286468
You should sell these
 
You should sell these
or post how you did it For the technically challenged like myself
I would be happy to share the code and specifics, I downloaded KiCad a few days ago because I was considering have some legitimate circuit boards made. I just put it together with what I had laying around + a 3d printed case so it's kind of ghetto and bigger than it needs to be. I'm using arduio's IOT cloud service which is free because I'm using only a few variables.
 
After sitting in a plow truck for a total of 20 hours between Sunday and today, that’s exactly how I feel.
dude.. you got snow.. Im just starting to get the gear together.. were still in clean ups.. I still have to clean up about 3 million sqft of grass.. I have 4 irrigation systems to install 40k to lay in sod and grade.. I start planting 150 street trees friday and 70k of hydroseeding and grading all before Christmas.. The thought of snow makes me want to throw up in my mouth.. I do like the white stuff but right now it would be to stressful..
 
dude.. you got snow.. Im just starting to get the gear together.. were still in clean ups.. I still have to clean up about 3 million sqft of grass.. I have 4 irrigation systems to install 40k to lay in sod and grade.. I start planting 150 street trees friday and 70k of hydroseeding and grading all before Christmas.. The thought of snow makes me want to throw up in my mouth.. I do like the white stuff but right now it would be to stressful..
Damn Sam. That’s a metric $@it ton of work to do in 23 days. I hope you have an army of workers. We were mud fall clean up when the skies decided to drop snow on us. Kind of bummed actually. I feel like I’m going to lose out on some easy leaf vacuum money. At least I did have the plow on the truck already. I got caught slacking last year and almost had to replace a hydro motor on the plow the night before the first storm. Lucky me , a few taps with a ball peen hammer got it working again. Good luck to you sir. I don’t envy the stress you must have at the moment.
 
Damn Sam. That’s a metric $@it ton of work to do in 23 days. I hope you have an army of workers. We were mud fall clean up when the skies decided to drop snow on us. Kind of bummed actually. I feel like I’m going to lose out on some easy leaf vacuum money. At least I did have the plow on the truck already. I got caught slacking last year and almost had to replace a hydro motor on the plow the night before the first storm. Lucky me , a few taps with a ball peen hammer got it working again. Good luck to you sir. I don’t envy the stress you must have at the moment.

We will move through it. I just couldn't handle the snow portion thrown in.. Couple years and im done for good.. Were working 6 days a week this month..
 
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