I only get dirty glass with a really small fire or wet wood. I don’t bother cleaning the glass but maybe once or twice a month with a wet paper towel. I get flash on it. Clean glass is a new stove thing. The new stove feeling’s that make you want to clean the glass will wear off.Did not have much luck with the commercial stove glass cleaner or with ash. Both removed some of the lighter stuff but I have a good layer of really thick, absolutely baked on stuff that will come off if you physically scrape it with something like an old putty knife. It laughs at the other cleaners. I didn't want to scrape too much and risk getting the glass, so I stopped and figured I'd see if a good hot fire would help at all. I wonder if any of it is stuff that baked off the inside of the stove from the break in fires? Maybe it's just caked on carbon.
40 degrees outside and 58 inside when I got home tonight. I picked up a cheap HF IR thermometer on the way home to try out. I have the back of the stove about 1/3 full of locust and mulberry and it has been humming along nicely. The automatic air control seems to be doing its thing. The center of the cook plate peaked at about 650 degrees an hour and a half later, and 2 hours later the house is 65 degrees. External flue temps were about 250 2' above the stove, and 175 near the ceiling. So far I'm happy. I did finally notice smoke/haze in the house, probably from the single wall pipe finally being hot enough to bake the paint a little, so I've cracked the windows open at this point.
I did smack the baffle pretty good with the poker earlier while flipping a log up. I have been spoiled with stoves with steel baffles in my past. No hole, but I'm going to have to be more careful.
When I had a BK that would get really hard buildup on the glass, a straight razor for cleaning windows was the only way to cleanThe Imperial cleaner is what I picked up and it does nothing to this baked on hard stuff. I may have to try the razor blade, very carefully. Might see if I have some sort of rigid enough chunk of plastic and try that first. And EbS-P, I do concur that the novelty will wear off at some point. I am just baffled by how hard this stuff is. The glass did dirty up again sometime last night as the fire was dying down, but it seems to be more of the loose, easier to wipe off stuff.
Around 9:45 last night I loaded a ~8" long crotch piece of locust that was maybe 5" diameter at the bottom and 3-4" where it split off to two different trunks onto what was mostly coals in the firebox at that point. At 7:30am the stovetop was still 100 degrees and I found coals in the ash bed. Not enough to just reload and go, but enough that with a little kindling it would have caught easily. I can't wait for a single digit night to try a proper overnight burn... And I normally hate winter.
For small loads I try to pack it fullish but with lots air space. I will cut short pieces usually kindling or branches so I can crisscross my loads. I do think there is a minimum fuel load for a hood hot clean burn. Where the air inlet is on the front of the stove I’d be loading close it it. Creosote while is burning down /coaling makes me think less than ideal wood. Burn it hot and fast and see what happens.I'd try a full firebox indeed. I have some of this on my window after running low. But burning (on high) with a full box for an hour or so, it's gone. At least it'll be crispier and thus easier to remove.
I'd also be concerned about the asymmetry of the thickness on your glass. Do you have a leak on the door?
This glass is very black. It looks like fuel issue to me. I have not cleaned the glass on either of my cat stoves in three seasons (what is the point on a cat stove) and it does not look this black. Brownish yes but not black like thatHere is a picture of some of the stuff that sticks on there during the end of a burn. I was midway through razor blade scraping it off (I did not scratch the glass despite what it may look like). Thanks for the tip. I am convinced that is the only way to remove this stuff. I wiped with wet ash for quite a while first and that removes the top sooty stuff decently but left this gunk.
Reading around in old threads for other stoves there may be hope it burns off if I get things hot enough? I have only had the rear 1/3 of the firebox full so far, so maybe between having a larger fire and it being closer to the glass, it will be less of an issue? We'll see what happens now that I am starting with a clean slate.
I do need to check the moisture content of my firewood, but it's been seasoned and kept dry for 3 years, and was standing dead before that so I'm not expecting it to be over 20%, if even that high.
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I cut a small strip of magazine paper tonight and went all around the door. It was tight everywhere. The design of the sealing interface seems to be pretty good, and nothing seems to be warped, no hinge pin holes machined at an angle, etc. since it's clamping down evenly everywhere. I will recheck with a match the next time I have a fire.I'd also be concerned about the asymmetry of the thickness on your glass. Do you have a leak on the door?
Wait till you load it full up. Then sit back and watch the fire light show in shorts and a tank top.I am happy to report the door glass was cleanable without a razor this morning. The below picture is after a quick wiping with almost no elbow grease. The rest of the stuff required some more vigorous rubbing but it all came off after a few minutes of effort. I built the fire closer to the middle instead of the rear of the stove, and I think all of the paint and other substances inside are pretty well cooked off by now. That baked on black stuff did not make an appearance. Fuel is the same 3 year+ seasoned locust and mulberry that I used previously.
Another thing I noticed with the fire in the middle is that some flames do lick towards the glass, so there must be some combustible gases available there in addition to the usual flames up along the baffle that I am used to.
I burned a 1/3 full load for 3 hours last night taking the house from 61 to 70 degrees. I let that burn down to that still active bed of coals when I added 3 more of my short splits early so I didn't have to wait any longer to boil water for supper. That was about 8:30 and the house got up to 72 before bed. At 8ish this morning the house was 61 (24 outside) and the stove was still slightly warm to the touch and I again found a few small coals in the ashbed. 60 in the morning is about what I aim for most days in the winter. When the sun's out my house absorbs heat pretty well during the day and I like it cool for sleeping. I still haven't removed any ashes from the stove, which tells you how much it's been used and how well my wood is burning down.
I am thrilled with this stove so far.
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Do you have the optional VC cooktop plate on yours or just cooking right on the cast iron?I also cooked on it for the first time. I am happy to report it is pretty easy to boil water on it and boxed shells and cheese were a success. I need to measure some dutch ovens and figure out what the biggest one I can buy is that will still fit in the diameter of the cooktop/uninsulated area.
I just put my pasta pot directly on the cast iron circle. I did ask the showroom guy at my dealer about the VC plate as they had one on display, and mentioned I probably don't want to know the price but I'll ask anyways... And he just looked me in the eyes and said "Yeah you don't want to to know." Haha. I haven't found them with pricing online yet but I would not be surprised if they're north of $100.Do you have the optional VC cooktop plate on yours or just cooking right on the cast iron?