32"Wide Fisher

[Bootjack]

So I've decided to install this stove in my new 1000 s.f. well insulated shop. It is probably overkill. I am trying to figure out clearances and appropriate flue pipe. I thought it was a Grandma Bear but now I'm not too sure. The top plate is 32" wide....bigger than a Grandpa. 8" exhaust. I searched around and haven't found the smoking answer . Help would be appreciated in identifying and providing any interesting facts ;particularly on install. It is not UL listed but that is not an issue. On the back of the stove upper right are the large capital letters "DB" followed by smaller capital letters "GP". Under that is the number "8817"

 

[coaly]

That came from Virginia or West Virginia.

DB stands for Dunn Brothers. They were the licensed fabricators for those two states.

8817 is the stove number, not serial number. Serial numbers were only used on later stoves with UL Labels. This is a ‘78 or ‘79 stove.

GP Grandpa. They are Grandpa doors on a slightly wider box. Normal measurement called for in prints across top was 30. That fabricator made a lot of what I call the wide body. Notice the wide plates on front that adds an inch to each side. The hinge plates were put on tilted inward to reach door hinge ears instead of tilting outward.

If you will be heating the building up from outdoor temperatures, this will do it.

Clearance is dictated by NFPA-211 Standard.

US is 36 inches to combustible without any shielding. This can be reduced to a minimum of 12 inches with an approved ventilated heat shield given in that Standard.

If you need to reduce clearance , or need floor protection specs, let us know what materials you will be using for details on how to do it.

The chimney is going to be largest cost. Are you going straight up, and how high is the ceiling?

 

[Bootjack]

Coaly thanks. I'm going to print this and keep it w/ my stove stuff. I had started a thread in the BK section 3-4 weeks ago since I was considering a BK Sirocco instead on my Fisher. Pretty much got talked out of the BK due to potential draft problems.

As it exits the stove I plan to reduce 8 to 6" then an immediate 90 elbow up about 8-9 ft. to another 90 elbow out through the gable end wall past the 12" eave. Then a 90 T with cleanout up past the roofline 2-3'. I'm prepared to add more pipe above roofline if it doesn't draft well.

I want to go to 6" in case I ever replace this stove w/ a more modern top exit stove. Single wall Duravent inside. Double wall Duravent outside. Bracket on wall for outside support. I don't want to go straight up due to metal roof and snow slide concerns.

I read your early posts about a simple baffle. Sounds like I also need to install this as well. Anything else you would advise? I wish I could trade this stove for a smaller Fisher w/ a 6" top exit.

 

[coaly]

That’s what I would do in case you find a 6 inch stove for cheap. The deep narrow stoves burn better since the heat flows lengthwise between the wood. A Mama Bear size would be good.

Teddy and Goldilocks are two pedestal type stoves with close to the heating capacity of Mama with 6 inch. (Teddy is actually 7, but in your case is fine on 6.

Your stove was designed to allow more heat up the flue using a larger existing fireplace chimney. It was also made with 8 inch for open door burning for fire viewing. The square inch firebox size is no larger than a Papa Bear with 6 inch outlet, just different characteristics of flow through it.

You won’t get full BTU output wide open, but won’t need that for 1000sf anyway.

You can burn any stove low and slow with not enough heat in the chimney to cause smoke roll in opening doors. Once the double wall chimney is hot it should be fine. A smaller stove would benefit from double wall inside. Single wall that high has a lot of cooling inside, so that runs chimney cooler with less draft. If you have issues that’s the cure.

 

[Bootjack]

Very good info. Thanks for taking the effort for the thoughtful response.