372xp rebuild/refurbish.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
clemsonfor

clemsonfor

Minister of Fire
Dec 15, 2011
2,513
Greenwood county, SC
OK my newest acquisition is a 372xp. What I see is that the chain brake lever is busted on the top half, as in gone. The safety trigger on the top part of the handle is gone?? . Other than that it looks all there.

Its not locked and has decent compression pulling rope. Maybe feels low. But I'm not sure how long since it was run??

Need to pull muff to look at P/C.
 
I just overhauled my 372XP, the case was trashed on it from a bucking spike incident.....
aftermarket parts are out there, and this case was a good fit, but it still has to get some field testing done before we will really know.....
Take your time, get a good clean spot on the bench ready, and if you need to, take pics of the break-down so you can remember how to put it all back together....
 
OK rebuild, just turned into a Carb rebuild!!! Another runner.

It just won't idle, just dies. Not sure if I can fix it with just tuning I. Or not? Will try the. L screw to see if that helps. But will run wide open fine and everywhere in between. Just dies
 
clemsonfor said:
OK rebuild, just turned into a Carb rebuild!!! Another runner.

It just won't idle, just dies. Not sure if I can fix it with just tuning I. Or not? Will try the. L screw to see if that helps. But will run wide open fine and everywhere in between. Just dies
Click to expand...
What I'd do is this. Bottom the "L" and "H" screws out. Then, back them both out 1 1/4 turns. Fine tune it from there but that will be your baseline settings. If it's falling flat on it's face, lean it out a big by turning the screw in until it idles. if it's idling really high, turn the screw out until it idles normal.....

Make sure your air filter is clean before tuning, and warm the saw up a little too. That will help it out in terms of getting it tuned properly. Also make sure you have some fluttering going on at full throttle when it's not in wood, this means you want it a hair rich over the optimal RPM. It ensures you are getting lubrication in the saw, especially during the cut. When you plunge it into wood, it won't flutter anymore.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jon1270
Its got plenty from the cord now that I fire. It up. It just falls on its face. It runs wot and 4strokes fine. Just when u let it return to idle it dies. This saw is from a logger. It spent its like cutting pre cuts or ply logs as we call them here. Basically short logs or bucking pine.

Most logger. Around here's saws do this. You will see them all grabbing the. Throttle and reveing them to keep them going.
 
OK just went out and fiddled with it. There is only like 3/4 turn on the L screw period?? It run the same bottomed. Out or out. I turned the idle up about a turn. Now it will idle a second or 2 warm then die.

Cut some hickory rounds and noodled a huge cut off I have from a 40" log. This thing cuts like nobodies business!!!! Wow, makes the ms390 look tame!!

I'm thinking I need a kit. Or a orfice is crudded up?
 
EBay the kit for Carb is like $14 and for a few dollars more I can get a complete Carb from china shipped. Still think I'll build mine. Dont have to wait 2 weeks! Plus its husky oe.
 
The 372 has a flat head to adjust the H and L. But...... You need splined shaft tool to adjust it fully. Otherwise, forget it. If you have time and skill, you can press down on the shaft, that the spline tool pushes down, and use another screwdriver to turn the screw further.

Just turning the flathead part, will yield no results. None at all. You need a piece of tubing, two small flat heads, or the proper tool.
 
Sounds to me like the LA (does Husky call it that?) needs to be adjusted. Throttle butterfly might be closing too far and shutting the saw down.
 
Raise the idle (LA) or buy the proper tool

Or. . . I'll give you $200 for it?? If you wanna get rid of it ;) (J/K....)
 
This one has slotted screws. Don't think its the la screw on a husky?? But just the idle screw.
 
Missed your previous post Dexter. Will look tomorrow.
 
I thought mine were slotted. They are..... But you need a spline shaft to adjust properly.

Promise you.
 
Dang it!! Stupid husky! Is this the same tool I can't find to adjust my 445? It has splines outside of the screws.
 
Yep. Only diff is this one has a flathead In the center to fool you
 
OK here is a pic. Cause it happened. The tag fell off but the plate on the front says 372xp. Looks rough but again this is a loggers saw. They ride around in the back of a truck and stuff gets piled on them.
 

Attachments

  • uploadfromtaptalk1377988665895.jpg
    uploadfromtaptalk1377988665895.jpg
    31.1 KB · Views: 221
  • Like
Reactions: ScotO
Cool
 
OK it has turned back to a rebuild.!!

Tried another saw shop to see if they would sell me the Carb tool. They said no. Said I could have them adjust it or I could. So I go back to bench with the old guy. I start. I get it to idle and close but we both are like that's not right. So he gos back to factory settings. Won't starts,so he does one more adjustment and won't start. Asks bout fuel filter. I said I had not even checked it. He pulled. It and said it was part stopped. I said sure let's throw one in, a partial clog won't help anything. Then he pulls plug which I not even touched as it ran. It had a helicoil in it!! Looked all hacked up. He said that may be part of problem. I said I'll put a new jug. He said have I pulled muff. Said no. He said pull that and see, may be scratched causing trouble too. I said I will now, that Carb won't do anything to really smooth out.

He said I would not put money in it. The kit is $300 and you have $70 labor. I said well I'm building it. He said still saw not worth $300, I would not give that for it. I said I wouldn't either I got it free! I guess when a younger clean cut looking guy walks in they think you can't do anything???
 
So I am going to build it to some degree.

He also probably didn't realize I have access to piles of junk saws from contacts!!

I am toy I g with getting a factory jug off a non locked diner if I can find a good one or go the new route and buy one on eBay.

I'm talking che am non OEM. Any recommendations on chineese kits on eBay that are cheap?

Not pulled the muff yet so not sure what's the damage if any.

At this point it will be jug minimum and rings. If needed will get a piston as well.

Thoughts?
 
Dont do chicom. Look up www.weedeaterman.com he is a member on AS. Look up the Hy Way kit. He puts Caber rings in the kits. I've used them and they are normall around $100 and are pretty close to OEM specs w/good compression due to Caber rings. Also, measure the squish and if possible, dont put the base gasket on (use a sealant, like Loc tite or Clear finger nail polish :)) and that will give you a few extra #'s of compression.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikefrommaine
Understand the theory of no gasket and why and the reason to measure. But what am I measuring in the squish?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

C
Clay flue break out
Replies
8
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
SpaceBus
SpaceBus
E
VC Defiant - Where is primary air intake?
Replies
42
Views
6K
Vermont Castings
Woodsplitter67
Woodsplitter67
Isaac Carlson
Electric splitter conversion with 4 way wedge
Replies
7
Views
4K
The Gear
salecker
salecker
P
Simpson Capstan Winch - 1st use
Replies
14
Views
4K
The Gear
hobbyheater
hobbyheater
G
Stihl won't start
Replies
13
Views
3K
The Gear
cjgoode
C
Top Bottom
Back