AcuTron II Control Board

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

bigbronco

New Member
Jan 21, 2013
8
Capacitor.JPG Hey guys, new here. I was just wondering if anyone knows what size the ceramic disc capacitor is that sits just to the left of the connection plug on the back side of an AcuTron II control board? My capacitor blew yesterday during a wind storm. It blew out the side. I can only read the last digit of the two rows #9 and #1. Any help would be great. It looks like a five minute fix. I really don't want to order new one for $300.

Thanks bb
 
Hello

My old board has a resister in that spot.

Oh well, If the capacitor popped then it may be very likely the Triac(s) may also be shot!

If you need info on a new board you can email me. Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • PelproVer00125Bya.jpg
    PelproVer00125Bya.jpg
    189.3 KB · Views: 1,419
Hello Don,

Thanks for the reply. Sorry that pic was taken from the net last night at work. I attached the actual board here. I don't mind if I have to swap out the triacs. I just don't know the value of the capacitor. I don't want to replace it with the wrong one. Dose anyone know of an approximate value that would work safely.

Again thanks for any help. bbacutron board.JPG
 
Are you sure that is a cap? Could be a MOV transient voltage suppressor. Is the part connected across the 110VAC that feeds the board?
 
Are you sure that is a cap? Could be a MOV transient voltage suppressor. Is the part connected across the 110VAC that feeds the board?
Do you think it could be a MOV?? Do they put them on pellet stove boards? The board went when the power line transformer in front of my house exploded.
 
Surge protector??
 
Looks like that too a pretty good hit, it appears from the photo that the board in that area got a tad scorched when it blew.... There is a place on the web that does repair jobs pretty reasonable on main boards.... Paramax MW Surge protector didn't save my DVD player or TV either last summer I have no faith in those anymore....
 
Surge suppressors are not a guarentee to protect equipment from all possible powerline spikes. Most electronics manufacturers have some minimal surge protection designed in, typically like the small MOV (if thats what it is on this Acutron board). The surge energy absorbtion ability (Joules or "J" rating) of a MOV is directly proportional to its physical size, you will usually see much larger MOVs inside the surge suppressors units. Better surge suppressors also use at least 3 MOVs, one across Hot-to-Neutral, one across Hot-to-chassis/safety ground, and one across Neutral-to-chassis/safety ground.

The Panamax surge suppressor is rated at 1350J, on the small side, but that's all you can fit into a duplex wall socket sized unit. It does have the 3 MOV configuration.

If the blown MOV is across the 110VAC input lines of the board (trace which connector pins feed the 110VAC), you could just remove the MOV (clip it out with a diag wire cutter), and the stove should work again. The input fuse to the stove may have blown when the MOV blew, so check that too. I think Radio Shack sells MOVs, just buy a larger one and solder it into the board, they cost a few $.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062574
 
Pelleting In NJ, YOU ARE THE MAN!!! Thanks you so much for your time and input. I have already removed the MOV and repaired two short traces on the bottom side. I'm going to Radio Shack today. I'll post an update.

Again thank you, bb
 
Okay, I replaced the MOV. Put it all back together, pushed the start button and nothing. It seems like a fuse. No power. Pelleting In NJ. You mentioned the input fuse?? I looked there is not alot in there. Its a pretty simple design. I can't seem to see a fuse anywhere. Any ideas? All three Triacs tested healthy. Below 10 degrees past three days.

Thanks again, bb
 
I have the same Acutron 2 control board can you tell me what you replaced on your board. Mine doesn't show any burn marks. Which ones control the 110v. Also how did you test it. Sorry
 
I have the same Acutron 2 control board can you tell me what you replaced on your board. Mine doesn't show any burn marks. Which ones control the 110v. Also how did you test it. Sorry

Hey Chancey, I replaced the burnt MOV and repaired a couple of cooked traces. There is a place right down the road from my house that makes these boards. It is a very small electronics factory. They make them for multiple pellet stove manufacturers.

Infitec, Inc.

6500 Badgley Road | East Syracuse NY 13057 USA

You can email them and they will sell you one directly. Much cheaper than the online stores.

Good luck,
bb
 
Looks like that too a pretty good hit, it appears from the photo that the board in that area got a tad scorched when it blew.... There is a place on the web that does repair jobs pretty reasonable on main boards.... Paramax MW Surge protector didn't save my DVD player or TV either last summer I have no faith in those anymore....



Where is this place what's the page?
 
Hello

My old board has a resister in that spot.

Oh well, If the capacitor popped then it may be very likely the Triac(s) may also be shot!

If you need info on a new board you can email me. Good luck.
Were can I but a Accutron 11 board less then 300
 
Private Conversation with me and post your email address.
 
Would you consider telling me what pieces you replaced? It's currently 10 degrees and the board went out. I really really would appreciate it!!
 
Would you consider telling me what pieces you replaced? It's currently 10 degrees and the board went out. I really really would appreciate it!!
Sorry for the short reply yesterday... Welcome to the forum! Boards are not a simple repair unless you replace the whole board which is probably your best bet since it sounds like you need the heat. Repairing the board itself requires an understanding of all the components mounted on the board, their function and how to test and trace the soldered components. Soldering itself to replace components can end badly if you don't have that skill ...

You could contact Infitec as they apparently make these boards
http://www.infitec.com/contact_information
 
Sorry for the short reply yesterday... Welcome to the forum! Boards are not a simple repair unless you replace the whole board which is probably your best bet since it sounds like you need the heat. Repairing the board itself requires an understanding of all the components mounted on the board, their function and how to test and trace the soldered components. Soldering itself to replace components can end badly if you don't have that skill ...

You could contact Infitec as they apparently make these boards
http://www.infitec.com/contact_information
I wouldn't have asked if I didn't know what i was doing. If you want to send me the 350 go replace it, be my guest. I am more than confident in my skills to repair, I just don't know what it is that needs repairing.
Thanks.
 
I wouldn't have asked if I didn't know what i was doing. If you want to send me the 350 go replace it, be my guest. I am more than confident in my skills to repair, I just don't know what it is that needs repairing.
Thanks.
Glad you are confident in your skills but we get a wide variety of skills levels here so fall to the lowest denominator. As for the $350, lose the attitude...
 
Seems to be a trade secret as I am, as well, in need of locating the schematic for the Accutron II. Since the one place I used to try to "repair" the board simply told me the board was un-repairable without the benefit of any type of test report, and there are few places to find any replacement for less than 325$, I simply don't want to take their word for it. I've worked on much more complex circuit cards in my life. As far as I can tell the failure did not damage any solder runs and if indeed a diode, triac or other component failed; it's not rocket science to replace them. I'd rather attempt my own fix before purchasing which is in most cases a non-returnable board for over 300 bucks.