Alright, I give in..

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The burned trace on that board can be repaired,with a trace repair kit,or by using small wire.Older PC repair places have the stuff,and,lots of ham radio people could do it for you.
 
The inside of a cartridge heater is a wire wound element.If it is loose from the epoxy inside,it can cause a short when hot.
 
if you use some solid telephone wire with just the tips tinned you can fix that easy. clean everything good and flux is your friend. after it is soldered use a q tip and isopropyl alchohol and clean the area of flux. then I coat the connections with clear fingernail polish. put an in line fuse to the igniter only way to make sure it dont happen again
 
cat 5 cable works good to
repaired3spd.jpg
 
if you use some solid telephone wire with just the tips tinned you can fix that easy. clean everything good and flux is your friend. after it is soldered use a q tip and isopropyl alchohol and clean the area of flux. then I coat the connections with clear fingernail polish. put an in line fuse to the igniter only way to make sure it dont happen again

I’ll take a look at it tomorrow,,,,not sure about my soldering ability,

Does it make a difference which of the two wires I put the inline fuse in?
 
I’ll take a look at it tomorrow,,,,not sure about my soldering ability,

Does it make a difference which of the two wires I put the inline fuse in?

If I counted right by looking at your board and using the wire schematic Ssyko posted the section that has damage is where the hot wire that feeds the igniter is attached to the circuit board. That’s the wire I would put the inline fuse in. You should double check to make sure I counted over correctly and use the wire schematic to verify it’s the hot wire for the igniter. Like Ssyko said previously use a 3 amp fast blow inline fuse.
 
Check this with your DMM in line to see how many amps its drawing while it is on.
 
Thanks, both SSyko and Wilson, you both help a lot. I appreciate it,,,Today I had to deal with computers issues, tomorrow is a work day,,, so Friday I can get back to the stove..... I’ve been starting it with a squirt of lighter fluid, and it runs fine,,, Gone back to ProPellets,,, surprised as how clean burning they are.

I certainly intend to put a fuse in the correct wire...
 
Finally going to get back to my Quadrafire,,,lost a lot of time last week dealing with cellular problems,,,some times AT& T makes me crazy, but they are the only carrier we can get.

Anyway,, the new igniter came with those stand plastic covered slip in connectors,,,, can I just put the matching connectors on the other wires,,,,,or is there some reason I need to use the old fashioned way with the ceramic wire nuts???
 
Finally going to get back to my Quadrafire,,,lost a lot of time last week dealing with cellular problems,,,some times AT& T makes me crazy, but they are the only carrier we can get.

Anyway,, the new igniter came with those stand plastic covered slip in connectors,,,, can I just put the matching connectors on the other wires,,,,,or is there some reason I need to use the old fashioned way with the ceramic wire nuts???
Shouldn't matter at all. Just connect to the other connectors. My igniters always came with the connecting clips
 
Don’t forget the in line fuse
 
Unbelievable....We actually have a Radio Shack dealer, of sorts, in our village...The lady there, showed me a choice of 3A fast blow fuses and holders,,,,better than I could find online....so now I’m set with that......a nice inline fuse holder.. And then to top if off she thinks the owner should be able to repair my circuit board...
 
Unbelievable....We actually have a Radio Shack dealer, of sorts, in our village...The lady there, showed me a choice of 3A fast blow fuses and holders,,,,better than I could find online....so now I’m set with that......a nice inline fuse holder.. And then to top if off she thinks the owner should be able to repair my circuit board...
That sounds good... let us know..
 
This is probably a dumb question, but , hey, I’m a plumber, not an electrician....I am supposed to get my repaired control board back tomorrow.. What would happen if I put a 3A fast blow fuse in BOTH the wires that go to the ignitor?
 
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With your stove I can’t positively say but on a Harman P-68 the ground wire goes to a vacuum switch and a buddy of mine put the fuse in in the ground wire by mistake and the auger wouldn’t shut off when the hopper door or the stove door was open. Not sure what safety devices are on your stove. If you plug your control board back into the wiring harness(before mounting it in the stove) where you can see both sides of the board with the stove unplugged you should be able to see where the repair runs to the plug and what wire it’s attached to. When Ssyko posted the picture of the wiring schematic it looked to me the part of your circuit board that had damage was where the hot wire to the igniter is plugged in. Post a picture of the board plugged in with the repaired side showing and maybe we can determine if that’s the hot wire. Just make sure you leave the stove unplugged so something doesn’t short out again. Wish you lived closer so I could give you a hand with your stove.
 
Thank you Wilson1,,,,I got the control board back today,, looks fine,,,I’ll post a picture in a bit. I should be able to figure out which wire is the hot one if it is the one that matches the repair......
Need to spend some time on it tomorrow.
 
Now here is my plan of action:
1. No power to stove
2. Run continuity check on new OEM ignitor.
3. Test ignitor with 110v direct to make sure it works.....(Boy, did the guy at the hardware store get excited when I told him I was making a 110V test cord.)
4. Install slip in connectors on wires on ignitor and wires they connect to
5. Determine ‘hot’ wire from control box to ignitor
6. Install 3A fast blow fuse inline in Hot wire.
7. Once again, check all wires for any signs of breaks. (Already done this, but do it again,)
8. Slide control box in to connector box.
9. Plug in power to stove
10. Turn stove on....

Anybody have suggestions...??
 
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