Alright, I give in..

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,960
park county montana
First,check the igniter with a ohm meter,unhooked,and make sure it is,or not,"open".Open means it is burned out.If it has resistance,try starting stove.Full house voltage feeds the igniter.If,the igniter is "open",light stove manually,wait for it to warm up,check for voltage to igniter,there should be none.If voltage is present you have a control board problem.Igniters are only supposed to be on for a certain period of time,keeping them on all the time burns them out.Hope this helps.
 
First,check the igniter with a ohm meter,unhooked,and make sure it is,or not,"open".Open means it is burned out.If it has resistance,try starting stove.Full house voltage feeds the igniter.If,the igniter is "open",light stove manually,wait for it to warm up,check for voltage to igniter,there should be none.If voltage is present you have a control board problem.Igniters are only supposed to be on for a certain period of time,keeping them on all the time burns them out.Hope this helps.
I will check in the morning, but am thinking perhaps the ignitor failed,,,because when I went out to the shop, after the first time it ran,,, it did get up to temp, but something blew the circuit breaker for the outlet I have the stove plugged in to.....so,,,, perhaps,..?????
 

Tonyray

Minister of Fire
Ordered the ignitor you recommended.......thanks again for all your help.
I have changed 2 of them. EZPZ....
insulation on 1 wire wore down and the bare wire touched the inner wall of the ignitor compartment.
blew the fuse while it was at it...

on hindsight, going in the compartment with a small vacuum attachement tube back/forth to clean it out was not the best idea.. prob rubbed the insullation off after a while.
now I just use my finger to pull out the dry ash.
btw:
i see you already ordered an ignitor as i was going to tell you not to go for the cheapie asian knockoffs. bought one from amazon for 39.00 and it blew out in 3 months.
paid around 79.00 dollars or so from a reputable stove parts web site and that was 3 years ago.
 
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I have changed 2 of them. EZPZ....
insulation on 1 wire wore down and the bare wire touched the inner wall of the ignitor compartment.
blew the fuse while it was at it...

on hindsight, going in the compartment with a small vacuum attachement tube back/forth to clean it out was not the best idea.. prob rubbed the insullation off after a while.
now I just use my finger to pull out the dry ash.
btw:
i see you already ordered an ignitor as i was going to tell you not to go for the cheapie asian knockoffs. bought one from amazon for 39.00 and it blew out in 3 months.
paid around 79.00 dollars or so from a reputable stove parts web site and that was 3 years ago.

Yes, I already installed the cheap one I got on ebay,,,, it was easy,,, 5 mins,,,of course, it failed. So now I have the good one on order,,, hope it gets here quic,

I have plenty of wire to work with so I made sure it was well out of the way,,,

Thanks for your input.
 

Tonyray

Minister of Fire
Yes, I already installed the cheap one I got on ebay,,,, it was easy,,, 5 mins,,,of course, it failed. So now I have the good one on order,,, hope it gets here quic,

I have plenty of wire to work with so I made sure it was well out of the way,,,

Thanks for your input.
One other tip I learned was to Mark the two wires in the back with a magic marker. Mine are blue and yellow. This way when I pull the wires back they are in the same spot they were before I move them.
 
One other tip I learned was to Mark the two wires in the back with a magic marker. Mine are blue and yellow. This way when I pull the wires back they are in the same spot they were before I move them.
Thanks for the tip. However, I don’t need to pull my wires out,,,,they are joined to the ignitor wires with ceramic wire nuts,,right in the area where the ash pan is....Mine don’t have those fancy push in clips to attach, though in fact I’ve never looked where they go into the control panel,,,but the wires on the new ones wouldn’t reach that far anyway,,,,,and my wires are both white....so I just unfasten them and connect the wires from the new ignitor...
 

Tonyray

Minister of Fire
Thanks for the tip. However, I don’t need to pull my wires out,,,,they are joined to the ignitor wires with ceramic wire nuts,,right in the area where the ash pan is....Mine don’t have those fancy push in clips to attach, though in fact I’ve never looked where they go into the control panel,,,but the wires on the new ones wouldn’t reach that far anyway,,,,,and my wires are both white....so I just unfasten them and connect the wires from the new ignitor...
Sounds easy. What stove is it?
 

Tonyray

Minister of Fire
It’s a Quadrafire 1000, 28 yrs olde.. The two wires to the ignitor....??? Doesn’t make any difference which way they go, is there?? Doesn’t look like one is a negative and one a positive..???/
Just like a single pole light switch. Either wire will do.
 
Got the new ignitor in today, installed it, took only 5 mins. And it doesn’t work..??? No voltage to it,,,, nothing..
What to check now?? Got a good connection with the wires...

I start the pellets with a torch, and everything runs fine.
 

Tonyray

Minister of Fire
Got the new ignitor in today, installed it, took only 5 mins. And it doesn’t work..??? No voltage to it,,,, nothing..
What to check now?? Got a good connection with the wires...

I start the pellets with a torch, and everything runs fine.
First thing I would do would be to remove the igniter and bench test it if you can. Don't know what your two ends look like so as to plug into an outlet to see if it gets hot. The igniter takes a full 110-volt
 

Wilson01

New Member
Feb 12, 2019
23
New York
You say you checked it with the stove running and there’s no voltage. Did you check for voltage when the stove first starts up when the igniter should be working? After the stove is running and up to temperature there shouldn’t be any voltage going to the igniter. If there’s no voltage on start up it could be the circuit board
 
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You say you checked it with the stove running and there’s no voltage. Did you check for voltage when the stove first starts up when the igniter should be working? After the stove is running and up to temperature there shouldn’t be any voltage going to the igniter. If there’s no voltage on start up it could be the circuit board
Yes, I checked the voltage both when the stove is just starting, No voltage.... and then when the stove is running,,, no voltage then either..
Please, don’t tell me it’s the circuit board.... those things are expensive.
Any other ideas?
 

Wilson01

New Member
Feb 12, 2019
23
New York
Are you checking for voltage at the igniter or where it plugs in to the circuit board ? Maybe a wire is broke between the board and igniter or a loose wire at the circuit board ? Just trying to think of anything else it could be. I’m not familiar with your stove but I’ve worked on older pellet stoves before. I’m not sure if the power wire from the circuit board that goes to the igniter goes to a pressure or low temp switch first for safety reason. I’ll try to find info online and get back later. Maybe someone with experience with this stove will get back to you
 
Are you checking for voltage at the igniter or where it plugs in to the circuit board ? Maybe a wire is broke between the board and igniter or a loose wire at the circuit board ? Just trying to think of anything else it could be. I’m not familiar with your stove but I’ve worked on older pellet stoves before. I’m not sure if the power wire from the circuit board that goes to the igniter goes to a pressure or low temp switch first for safety reason. I’ll try to find info online and get back later. Maybe someone with experience with this stove will get back to you
I am checking the voltage at the ignitor,,, I will check all the wiring back to the control board, ot see if any breaks,,,Also I will look and see if the ignitor wire goes to any pressure switch,,
Thanks,, appreciate any help on this,, so I don’t need to buy a new control board.