Another Magnetic Thermometer Question

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joneo

New Member
Feb 24, 2019
35
Portland, Oregon
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Hello, I've noticed some differences in what is considered an "optimal operating temperature" with different stove top thermometers and am wondering what the general consensus is regarding this.

As you can see in the pics, one thermometer shows a "best zone" between 400-600 degrees, while the other shows 300-600 being the optimal temperature.

Which is correct? (Our Regency i2400's auto fan kicks on at about the 300 degree mark as shown on the Midwest Hearth thermo, double checked with an Etekcity 800 IR gun.)
 
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I pick C) Neither one!

You should have a tool to measure stovetop temps to help prevent overfire, but the flue probe thermometer is the one that will really tell you if you are burning efficiently.

A stovetop thermometer gives such variable readings depending on the stove and where it's placed that it's a little strange to think that their manufacturers pretend to know what reading is okay and what reading is too hot.

Check your owner's manual to see what your manufacturer's definition of overfire is. Many of them don't offer specifics, though.

Most people here try to keep stovetops below 700 on steel stoves.

I recommend an infrared thermometer to anyone looking for a stovetop thermometer. It can take instant readings at various points, is good for finding air leaks around the house, and is very handy for other stuff as well.
 
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One is for stove top and one is for stove pipe. I prefer going by the pipe instead of stove top. If you have single wall pipe a magnetic surface thermometer is fine. With doublewall you need a probe thermometer
 
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Yes as stated the top one is a pipe thermo.
 
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Thanks for the replies! This is an insert, so not sure how to get a flue probe in there.

I do have an IR thermometer, which I have been checking against the stovetop thermo, which is placed in the front of the insert above the door handle. So far they have been matching, once the stove gets up to temp. I am of the understanding that if I'm getting good secondarys by way of viewing the air tubes shoot little flames like lines of torches, then I should be OK.

Regency's official verdict is to avoid making the stove glow red. However, I'm wondering what would be too low of a reading to avoid creosote, especially as we move on into Spring here in the PNW (Oregon). Can I use a flue probe with an insert?
 
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Creosote condenses at 250°F. To really avoid it you need to keep the coldest part of the flue (the top) above 250°.

A stovetop thermometer won't be of much help there, and a flue probe tells you what temperature the hot end of the pipe is.

I am half certain that this thread will motivate at least one of our local hackers to add a top-of-flue probe to their list of sensors- but at the time of writing I don't know anyone who has actually done this.

Just buy a brush or a sooteater and sweep frequently; that experience will teach you whether you are keeping the flue warm enough or not.
 
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Creosote condenses at 250°F. To really avoid it you need to keep the coldest part of the flue (the top) above 250°.

A stovetop thermometer won't be of much help there, and a flue probe tells you what temperature the hot end of the pipe is.

I am half certain that this thread will motivate at least one of our local hackers to add a top-of-flue probe to their list of sensors- but at the time of writing I don't know anyone who has actually done this.

Just buy a brush or a sooteater and sweep frequently; that experience will teach you whether you are keeping the flue warm enough or not.

That's good info. I'm surprised that there aren't already top-of-the-pipe thermos out there.
 
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That's good info. I'm surprised that there aren't already top-of-the-pipe thermos out there.

Well, for starters you either need to run a wire in such a way that the insulation doesn't melt off, or go up top to replace the batteries regularly, or set up a teeny solar system... honestly I think a marketable product would have to be solar + battery + wifi.