Anyone Know Anything About This Stove?

[Grifter]

Greetings Everyone,

I just purchased a log cabin in November and it came with a wood burning stove. I cant find any kind of information about it anywhere.

It is branded as a "Fiery Furnace" built by Southwest Energy Systems, inc. out of Greenville, TX. (internet searching revealed nothing on this company ever existing).

Dimensions are:
32" tall x 28" wide x 24" deep.

It is double walled, where the combustion chamber has an air pocket around it and the rear fan blows that air out of vents in the bottom front of the stove. This being the first wood burning stove I have had experience with, I know nothing of them.

Anyone have any knowledge on this stove?

Thanks!

 

[jetsam]

Never heard of the stove or company, and google isn't helping much.

It looks like a fairly well designed newer smoke dragon in good condition. It has airwash! That thing likely burns front to back, as primary (only?) air comes through the airwash system in front.

Look up inside the firebox. Is there a baffle and/or tubes up there?

My first instinct would be "get rid of it and buy a modern stove", but it does look nearly new.

Post some photos of the inside of the firebox, looking up!

 

[bholler]

I agree with what jetsam said but there are also some serious clearance issues

 

[jetsam]

I agree with what jetsam said but there are also some serious clearance issues

Yeah, the way the stove looks almost new and the way the paneling on the wall has never been on fire are closely related.

 

[Rich L]

I'd like to see what that bad boy can do.Just move it away from those walls before you lit him up.

 

[MagdalenaP]

Can you google the address?

Is there a metal plate on the back with more info?

 

[Grifter]

Never heard of the stove or company, and google isn't helping much.

It looks like a fairly well designed newer smoke dragon in good condition. It has airwash! That thing likely burns front to back, as primary (only?) air comes through the airwash system in front.

Look up inside the firebox. Is there a baffle and/or tubes up there?

My first instinct would be "get rid of it and buy a modern stove", but it does look nearly new.

Post some photos of the inside of the firebox, looking up!

No baffles or tubes just straight up and out.

Looking around on this forum I've determined its also a circulating stove considering the double walled design with a fan blowing air around the fire box. That also explains the close clearances to the walls (right at 12" from either corner to the walls which is as recommended on this forum's stickied post about installation of a classic circulating stove).

I will be installing metal paneling with 1" spacing soon though.

Looks to have been installed when the cabin was built in 1987. (It was only a weekend / vacation home until I purchased the cabin).

 

[Grifter]

I agree with what jetsam said but there are also some serious clearance issues

It is close as far as clearance is concerned (12" at the closest point, the photos make it look closer) but that is right at the minimum for a circulating design stove as recommended on the sticky post on this forum for installing and operating a classic circulating stove. I will be putting in metal plate with 1" spacing soon just to on the safe side though.

Thanks!

 

[Grifter]

Can you google the address?

Is there a metal plate on the back with more info?

Google (Bing as well) put the address as being for "Economy Builders Supply" in Greenville, TX, not Southwest Energy Systems, inc.

I will look behind it when I get home from to look for an info plate of some sort.

Thanks!

 

[jetsam]

It does look like a good stove, but if it's to be your primary heat, I would still just get rid of it without messing with it further. No free stove is worth using 2x the wood of a cheap modern stove. (Plus I demand long burns and low burns out of my stoves these days.)

Anyone who tells you 'wood is free' obviously wasn't the one who had to find it, drop it, limb it, haul it, buck it, split it, haul it again, stack it, cover it, season it, unstack it, and bring it in.

 

[Grifter]

It does look like a good stove, but if it's to be your primary heat, I would still just get rid of it without messing with it further. No free stove is worth using 2x the wood of a cheap modern stove. (Plus I demand long burns and low burns out of my stoves these days.)

Anyone who tells you 'wood is free' obviously wasn't the one who had to find it, drop it, limb it, haul it, buck it, split it, haul it again, stack it, cover it, season it, unstack it, and bring it in.

This stove is not my primary heat, I burn in the evenings into the early morning, but I also have a traditional HVAC that kicks in by the time I leave for work that keeps the cabin at 60. If I had the need to run the stove continuously then replacing it would obviously be at the top of my list, but at the moment... I love the thing, the wife loves it even more... it works for our needs.

I live in Texas, even in the mountains (Cabin elevation is ~5800ft), the day time winter temps are usually well above freezing. Night temps drop to low 20s to high teens we can get single digits but that is rare.

 

[SpaceBus]

There are several modern stoves that would allow you to keep the cabin much warmer than the HVAC system and also burn long enough for work and sleep. You should seriously consider it. After getting an EPA stove I am a believer.

 

[bholler]

It is close as far as clearance is concerned (12" at the closest point, the photos make it look closer) but that is right at the minimum for a circulating design stove as recommended on the sticky post on this forum for installing and operating a classic circulating stove. I will be putting in metal plate with 1" spacing soon just to on the safe side though.

Thanks!

Unless there is a ul tag on the stove giving you clearances the stove requires 36" of clearance that can be reduced to 12" with a proper ventilated heatsheild. The stove pipe if single wall needs 18" that can be reduced to 6. What type of chimney is it hooked to and how?

 

[Grifter]

Unless there is a ul tag on the stove giving you clearances the stove requires 36" of clearance that can be reduced to 12" with a proper ventilated heatsheild. The stove pipe if single wall needs 18" that can be reduced to 6. What type of chimney is it hooked to and how?

I didn't come to this forum to be lectured. I was looking for information about this stove, this stove that has been in this very location with these exact clearances for 30+ years. I realize that they may not be to today's codes, and that this is most likely a one off that isn't UL listed.

Quote from the link to the NASD guidelines on this forum for installing a "classic" wood stove.

"If a stove is not listed, follow the National Fire Protection Association recommendations (see Table 1) for clearance from combustibles."

The table then lists "Circulating Type Stove" Minimum clearance with no protection : 12". With metal spaced protection it is reduced down to 4". And this is the standard that I seem to find on nearly all state regulatory websites for a circulating type stove, unlisted, with no protection and with protection.

I get that you have a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and you are a professional in the field, I don't appreciate you redirecting my thread from its original purpose.

 

[bholler]

I didn't come to this forum to be lectured. I was looking for information about this stove, this stove that has been in this very location with these exact clearances for 30+ years. I realize that they may not be to today's codes, and that this is most likely a one off that isn't UL listed.



Quote from the link to the NASD guidelines on this forum for installing a "classic" wood stove.

"If a stove is not listed, follow the National Fire Protection Association recommendations (see Table 1) for clearance from combustibles."

The table then lists "Circulating Type Stove" Minimum clearance with no protection : 12". With metal spaced protection it is reduced down to 4". And this is the standard that I seem to find on nearly all state regulatory websites for a circulating type stove, unlisted, with no protection and with protection.

I get that you have a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and you are a professional in the field, I don't appreciate you redirecting my thread from its original purpose.

Can you provide a link to the code you are stating with the acompaning definition of circulating type. I just read through chapter 12 of nfpa211 and couldnt find it. But i could have missed it i have been wrong plenty of times before.

You asked what people knew about the stove and told you what I knew. I appologize for attempting to make sure your install was safe.

 

[mellow]

You have a wood stove with a blower. This is a Circulating stove:

(broken link removed to https://www.northlineexpress.com/u-s-stove-wonderluxe-coal-circulator.html)

It is a cool stove, looks like an older blaze king / earth stove clone. Even looks like it has a bimetallic thermostat on it.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I didn't come to this forum to be lectured. I was looking for information about this stove, this stove that has been in this very location with these exact clearances for 30+ years. I realize that they may not be to today's codes, and that this is most likely a one off that isn't UL listed.

Quote from the link to the NASD guidelines on this forum for installing a "classic" wood stove.

"If a stove is not listed, follow the National Fire Protection Association recommendations (see Table 1) for clearance from combustibles."

The table then lists "Circulating Type Stove" Minimum clearance with no protection : 12". With metal spaced protection it is reduced down to 4". And this is the standard that I seem to find on nearly all state regulatory websites for a circulating type stove, unlisted, with no protection and with protection.

I get that you have a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and you are a professional in the field, I don't appreciate you redirecting my thread from its original purpose.

Settle down grifter. You'd be wise to listen to this advice you are getting for free.

 

[coaly]

One thing that doesn't make sense is the air flow around firebox. Since hot air is lighter and more buoyant than cold air, it naturally rises, so the intake is normally low to pull cooler air from the floor, to heat it around firebox, and exits towards the top. Normally forward. Natural flow in a power outage is that direction and a blower should not go against the natural circulation. Most blowers were optional. What is the operable door for under the ash fender? (shelf) Are there open holes under the front edge of the top for hot air exhaust? Does the blower have its own intake and possibly blow up the back, across the top, then down and out the bottom? How would it circulate in a power failure? In furnaces (gas and oil) that is called counter-flow design, but the appliance has a high limit safety to shut down burner if the blower does not run or can't move enough air. Solid fuel without induction fan has no over heat safety.

IF behind the heat control is a bimetallic spring that opens intake air to control oxygen to fire, (throttle if you will) that area should be the intake air, not exhaust. You want the bimetallic thermostat to sense incoming indoor air to adjust flame higher and lower, not to sense its own heated air. That's another reason I believe the lower front openings should be for intake air.

We need more pictures so we know what we are looking at. Blower, inside front compartment door, thermostat and any other openings the blower air could come out.

With the correct circulation this stove uses convection, or hot air to heat the space, not radiation in all directions. It does use direct radiation through the glass. Without the correct circulation, the double wall exterior is going to get much hotter than it should, requiring more clearance. That is normally built into the design of solid fuel heaters, since the advantage to having one is a heat source without electric.

 

[begreen]

I think the answer is no, so far no one knows anything about this stove. Is there any sort of tag on the back of the stove that would provide more information?

What is pretty certain is that with a "straight up and out" system, with not even a baffle, the stove is going to be very inefficient. Stoves like this typically eat wood like candy. If you feed it enough wood frequently enough it will put out a lot of heat, but at the expense of using a great deal of wood to accomplish this.

 

[HomeinPA]

Can you provide a link to the code you are stating with the acompaning definition of circulating type. I just read through chapter 12 of nfpa211 and couldnt find it. But i could have missed it i have been wrong plenty of times before.

You asked what people knew about the stove and told you what I knew. I appologize for attempting to make sure your install was safe.

Dude! What were you thinking?! This guy knows how to read a code book and obviously knows exactly what he's doing and dealing with. Well, except for the stove which he knows nothing about and can't find a manual for and has no idea what clearances are that he needs. But hey, he has deemed it a "circulating type stove" (again, with no documentation but hey....who needs that?) and is sure it's safe because "...this stove that has been in this very location with these exact clearances for 30+ years". I don't know why you aren't going to him for advice.