Ausroflamm Integra auger feed problems

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Jaxon

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Sep 13, 2012
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I own a used Austroflamm Integra that will go through normal start up cycle and feed pellets intermittantly for approximately 2 minutes(red light comes on) the combustion motor runs, but then the auger motor will not come on again at all after that. The combustion motor continues to run and after about 7 minutes after start up, the convection fan will turn on and you can adjust the fan speed. But, no more pellets.
I have replaced both the high and low limit switches and replaced the air flow sensor. I have also sent the user control panel, wiring harness, air sensor, and the motherboard in for testing and repair to the Austroflamm specialist pelletstoverepair.com and he is at a loss and assures me that my electronics are working normally.
The stove is clean inside and out and the door is well-sealed. Any suggestions as I don't know what to do next and am at the point of giving up on this stove.
 
Is the "air flow sensor" you mentioned the same as the vacuum switch most of us have on our stoves? If not, does the Integra have a vacuum switch?

If the switch doesn't see vacuum or low vacuum, the auger stops feeding pellets as a safety precaution. Usually caused by a plugged-up exhaust system, plugged-up tube leading from firebox to vacuum switch, or faulty switch.
 
Check the auger bushing at the plate of the auger housing. I betcha it is worn out and is stopping the motor. Additionally, the auger motor itself is most likely worn out from trying to turn the auger shaft with resistance (the worn bushing). Tell tale signs of this is pellet dust collecting under the auger in a pyramid like fashion. Grab a hold of the auger motor and rotate it by hand, motor and all. look at the brass bushing. is it turning with the auger shaft? it shouldn't. The remedy would be to replace the bushing and the motor.
 
There is no vacuum switch. The Austroflamm uses and electronic air sensor that's mounted within the fresh air intake tube. The guy that tested my electrical components said it seemed like the stove was acting like it was not reading good airflow, but also assured me that my air sensor was working properly.
 
smwilliamson said:
Check the auger bushing at the plate of the auger housing. I betcha it is worn out and is stopping the motor. Additionally, the auger motor itself is most likely worn out from trying to turn the auger shaft with resistance (the worn bushing). Tell tale signs of this is pellet dust collecting under the auger in a pyramid like fashion. Grab a hold of the auger motor and rotate it by hand, motor and all. look at the brass bushing. is it turning with the auger shaft? it shouldn't. The remedy would be to replace the bushing and the motor.
Click to expand...
smwilliamson said:
Check the auger bushing at the plate of the auger housing. I betcha it is worn out and is stopping the motor. Additionally, the auger motor itself is most likely worn out from trying to turn the auger shaft with resistance (the worn bushing). Tell tale signs of this is pellet dust collecting under the auger in a pyramid like fashion. Grab a hold of the auger motor and rotate it by hand, motor and all. look at the brass bushing. is it turning with the auger shaft? it shouldn't. The remedy would be to replace the bushing and the motor.
Click to expand...
 
I have manually checked the auger motor and it moves the auger and dispenses pellets when I do without moving the brass bushing. The auger motor comes on every time on startup but then stops dispensing, no light, no motor noise after the first two minutes.
I should also add that when both motors come on, they stay on and run indefinitely even when I turn the stove switch off and I eventually have the unplug it.
 
smwilliamson said:
Ah....make sure the thermostat connections are bridged. If the stove it not calling for heat (closed circuit) the stove will shut down...off the terminal block, you want to bridge the brown and blue wires with a jumper. (paper clip?)
Click to expand...
There is a jumper already between the brown and blue wires on the block
 
The fact that the stove starts and runs 2 minutes before the auger motor stops sounds like air flow sensor not seeing proper airflow.....Was the stove completely disassembled and cleaned of all ash?

I've never worked on one of these, so I'm guessing......am I on the right track Scott?
 
During start up, if the air flow sensor sees a drop in air flow (increase stoves pressure) prior to the LT sensor closing (low limit) the auger will stop feeding...dirty stove...blocked flue or defective air sensor. Additionally, the combustion motor is equipped with hall sensors to measure RPMs, if the hall sensors are defective the auger will also stop feeding because it thinks the motor is not turning. There are test stips on the back of the control board to test for 2.5v across the hall sensors during operation. Lastly, if the LT switch was replaced with something which is not rated for millivolts, there is a chance the switch may be absorbing the 5v signal and not returning to the board...also the auger will stop...I pretty sure.

troubleshooting manual: http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf
 
smwilliamson said:
During start up, if the air flow sensor sees a drop in air flow (increase stoves pressure) prior to the LT sensor closing (low limit) the auger will stop feeding...dirty stove...blocked flue or defective air sensor. Additionally, the combustion motor is equipped with hall sensors to measure RPMs, if the hall sensors are defective the auger will also stop feeding because it thinks the motor is not turning. There are test stips on the back of the control board to test for 2.5v across the hall sensors during operation. Lastly, if the LT switch was replaced with something which is not rated for millivolts, there is a chance the switch may be absorbing the 5v signal and not returning to the board...also the auger will stop...I pretty sure.

Hall sensors in the combustion motor? I have never heard of this and am not too electrically savy. Would i use an ohm meter?The Stove is clean in and out and I don't think that airflow is the problem.

troubleshooting manual: http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf
Click to expand...
 
Hall sensors in the combustion motor? I havent heard of that before. I am not too electrically savvy. How would I test this component or any of the other wires---with an ohm meter? The stove is clean inside and out and I don't think that airflow is the problem.
 
Jaxon, you have a very good stove. If all of the electronics test out ok, then the problem has to reside with other components from the stove. Joe, the man you sent the parts to is very knowledgeable and provides a very good service. If he says that they are testing out OK, then you are in fact ok in that regard. Problem #1 is eliminated, the mother board, air flow sensor and control pad are good. If you replaced the two switches for the stove and used factory recommended parts, then those are ok. If the auger bushing is not restricting the rotation of the auger shaft, then you have eliminated that.

Things to do:
  1. A bad LT switch will give you these symptoms OR replacement of this switch with an aftermarket switch NOT rated for low voltage will do the same OR faulty connection from the terminal block to or on the switch
  2. A bad air flow sensor will give you these symptoms. Make sure the air flow sensor is installed with the circuitry toward the outside of the stove. Make sure the the venting is not obstructed OR the air flow is obstructed within the stove (CLEAN IT!). IF you raker rods do not move up and down freely, the exhaust holes at the bottom of the rake may be filled with ash. Make sure the wiring to the air flow sensor is connected and seated properly as well as is connected to the proper in/out on the mother board.
  3. A bad hall sensor on the combustion motor will give you these problems as the mother board cannot tell that the motor is actually turning or turning fast enough.
  4. The combustion motor hall sensors ARE working but the motor isn't spinning freely OR the capicitor to start the motor is bad and the motor is in fact not moving OR there us an obstruction at the motor not allowing the motor to spin.
Diagrams to trouble shoot are included.

austroflamme bad LT switch copy.jpgaustroflamme air flow sensor.jpgaustroflamme hall sensor testing copy.jpgaustroflamme combustion motor test copy.jpg
 
smwilliamson said:
.

Things to do
IF you raker rods do not move up and down freely, the exhaust holes at the bottom of the rake may be filled with ash. Make sure the wiring to the air flow sensor is connected and seated properly as well as is connected to the proper in/out on the mother board.
Click to expand...

Jason you have stated the stove is clean...have you checked you flue??
The raker rods should make a metallic sound when using them especially when the rods are at the bottom of the stroke if it sounds more like a "thud" you have an ash buildup and needs to be cleaned. To clean the tubes you need to remove the upper and lower cast wall to inspect the airflow tubes. Remove the upper one first (2 bolts) then the lower one (3bolts) use caution as they are heavy. You do not have to remove the door to do this.

Here is a link to a picture of cast wall before and after removal pics.
 
Mark_ms said:
Jason you have stated the stove is clean...have you checked you flue??
The raker rods should make a metallic sound when using them especially when the rods are at the bottom of the stroke if it sounds more like a "thud" you have an ash buildup and needs to be cleaned. To clean the tubes you need to remove the upper and lower cast wall to inspect the airflow tubes. Remove the upper one first (2 bolts) then the lower one (3bolts) use caution as they are heavy. You do not have to remove the door to do this.

Here is a link to a picture of cast wall before and after removal pics.
Click to expand...
Mark_ms said:
Jason you have stated the stove is clean...have you checked you flue??
The raker rods should make a metallic sound when using them especially when the rods are at the bottom of the stroke if it sounds more like a "thud" you have an ash buildup and needs to be cleaned. To clean the tubes you need to remove the upper and lower cast wall to inspect the airflow tubes. Remove the upper one first (2 bolts) then the lower one (3bolts) use caution as they are heavy. You do not have to remove the door to do this.

Here is a link to a picture of cast wall before and after removal pics.
Click to expand...
 
smwilliamson said:
Jaxon, you have a very good stove. If all of the electronics test out ok, then the problem has to reside with other components from the stove. Joe, the man you sent the parts to is very knowledgeable and provides a very good service. If he says that they are testing out OK, then you are in fact ok in that regard. Problem #1 is eliminated, the mother board, air flow sensor and control pad are good. If you replaced the two switches for the stove and used factory recommended parts, then those are ok. If the auger bushing is not restricting the rotation of the auger shaft, then you have eliminated that.

Things to do:
  1. A bad LT switch will give you these symptoms OR replacement of this switch with an aftermarket switch NOT rated for low voltage will do the same OR faulty connection from the terminal block to or on the switch
  2. A bad air flow sensor will give you these symptoms. Make sure the air flow sensor is installed with the circuitry toward the outside of the stove. Make sure the the venting is not obstructed OR the air flow is obstructed within the stove (CLEAN IT!). IF you raker rods do not move up and down freely, the exhaust holes at the bottom of the rake may be filled with ash. Make sure the wiring to the air flow sensor is connected and seated properly as well as is connected to the proper in/out on the mother board.
  3. A bad hall sensor on the combustion motor will give you these problems as the mother board cannot tell that the motor is actually turning or turning fast enough.
  4. The combustion motor hall sensors ARE working but the motor isn't spinning freely OR the capicitor to start the motor is bad and the motor is in fact not moving OR there us an obstruction at the motor not allowing the motor to spin.
Diagrams to trouble shoot are included.

View attachment 74014View attachment 74015View attachment 74016View attachment 74017
Click to expand...
 
smwilliamson said:
Jaxon, you have a very good stove. If all of the electronics test out ok, then the problem has to reside with other components from the stove. Joe, the man you sent the parts to is very knowledgeable and provides a very good service. If he says that they are testing out OK, then you are in fact ok in that regard. Problem #1 is eliminated, the mother board, air flow sensor and control pad are good. If you replaced the two switches for the stove and used factory recommended parts, then those are ok. If the auger bushing is not restricting the rotation of the auger shaft, then you have eliminated that.

Things to do:
  1. A bad LT switch will give you these symptoms OR replacement of this switch with an aftermarket switch NOT rated for low voltage will do the same OR faulty connection from the terminal block to or on the switch
  2. A bad air flow sensor will give you these symptoms. Make sure the air flow sensor is installed with the circuitry toward the outside of the stove. Make sure the the venting is not obstructed OR the air flow is obstructed within the stove (CLEAN IT!). IF you raker rods do not move up and down freely, the exhaust holes at the bottom of the rake may be filled with ash. Make sure the wiring to the air flow sensor is connected and seated properly as well as is connected to the proper in/out on the mother board.
  3. A bad hall sensor on the combustion motor will give you these problems as the mother board cannot tell that the motor is actually turning or turning fast enough.
  4. The combustion motor hall sensors ARE working but the motor isn't spinning freely OR the capicitor to start the motor is bad and the motor is in fact not moving OR there us an obstruction at the motor not allowing the motor to spin.
Diagrams to trouble shoot are included.

View attachment 74014View attachment 74015View attachment 74016View attachment 74017
Click to expand...
 
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