Auto dampner

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razerface

Minister of Fire
Jan 1, 2014
636
Ohio
well, i have to do something,,,,l have a harman tl300. I heat the whole house with it from the basement. Heats everything perfectly.

The problem is, when i load it up to the top, (dry oak) about 1-2 hours later, the digital probes in my pipe have gone up too high of temps. Last night it hit 1408 deg. We have alarms, so we run down and shut the air completely off, but still have to open stove top intermitantly to help stove cool off. The stove top will be 500-650 degrees. The problem is the temp in the pipe!

It does it on every full load. The afterburner is roaring like a train, and it takes up to 1 hour to get temps down. The temps always normally run 600-850 in the pipe when afterburner is running. It will NOT do it if only a partial load.

We replaced the afterburner insert last week. Did not help.

I was thinking my 30 ft chim is just too much draft, forcing it into an uncontrollable blowtorch situation.

I need a "temp controlled"draft controller in the pipe to shut the draft down some when it gets over a desired temp, then open back up when temp is reduced. Anything exist?
 
What you're looking for is automatic damper control to "shut the air" down when the stove and/or pipe comes up to temp. Wood furnaces are set up to do this automatically, BK does it automatically, it's out there but not on your stove. The smartstove controller can probably be configured to do it.

A key damper could be used to do it but with some other hassles. A barometric damper could also do it with a lot more risk.

In your shoes, I'd probably consider the key damper. You can either set it and forget it or you can open it for startup and close it to a particular setting when you've reached cruise temps. Unattended burning in a manual woodstove is fun isn't it?
 
When you say dampner are you referring to the air control on the stove or a stove pipe damper?

A manual key damper in the stove pipe will reduce the draft. If the stove and flue are warmed up it can be closed after reloading.
 
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I work around gas fired boilers and furnaces that use them. The problem with a wood fired appliance is that it will draw in cooler air through the damper and cool the flue gas. I know that some wood furnaces use them.
 
I work around gas fired boilers and furnaces that use them. The problem with a wood fired appliance is that it will draw in cooler air through the damper and cool the flue gas. I know that some wood furnaces use them.
Isnt that the object? To cool down the flu and reduce draft? Or do i understand wrong?
 
Yes and no. I'm no expert on flue systems so I won't comment any further.
 
Isnt that the object? To cool down the flu and reduce draft? Or do i understand wrong?
by introducing cool air into the smoke stream you will make allot of creosote. With creosote comes the risk of chimney fire and if you do have a fire that damper will open up wide and feed that fire with tons of air
 
Well i put a barametric damper on it and started a fire tonite. Instant difference. I will probably have to learn to run the stove all over again. It does not shoot up over 1000 deg in the pipe now. In fact it hasnt got over 720 deg with the bypass open, then when i shut the bypass, the pipe goes down in the 230-250 range. That seems pretty cold. I need inbetween the two. I will know more when i get my coal bed up and start a real burn cycle. So far i have the air control open twice as far.
 
Watch that chimney closely for creosote buildup. I would check it in a week. In the meantime set the barometric to admit less air under strong draft and very little under moderate draft.
 
525 stovetop. 277 in the pipe per digital probe. Still dont have a coal bed though
 
Watch that chimney closely for creosote buildup. I would check it in a week. In the meantime set the barometric to admit less air under strong draft and very little under moderate draft.
There is only 1 adjustment. You move a weight in a slot. I have it shut to the max, but i think it changed the draft too much. Will key damper fit in double wall?
 
That's the ticket. Try it with the baro-damper removed or at least wedged closed.
 
Yes that is the correct product for your stove. I hate to see barometric dampers on wood stoves in fact i will not work on a stove with one unless the homeowner will let me take it out. They cause problems and in a fire they are very dangerous.
 
Will that (key damper) stay where i put it,,or will the draft move it?
 
550 stovetop with 390 flue. Getting better as coals build.
 
550 stovetop with 390 flue. Getting better as coals build.
A barometric damper will help stabilize the draft yes but it will also cause lots of problems it is not worth it. If you don't believe us call harman and ask them
 
Harman told us to put it on. My dealer called them with my problem. They even gave me the setting of .06 to initially set it at.

I am taking it out today. Last night on a full load burn, the highest the flue got was 441 deg. Most of the time it was 260-320. That is on my prob at the bottom of the 34 ft chim. I think i need 450-500 constant.
 
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Harman told us to put it on. My dealer called them with my problem.
no your dealer told you to i am positive harman did not authorize it call them direct
 
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