**Best Insert for (ICF) Large Ranch - what would you buy!?

[BsFire]

Since you revived it and decided on a insert, and you liked the BK before, check out there website they have a couple new inserts that are really nice looking.

As to your other questions....

Custom surrounds can be made by a machine/metal shop.
There is no reason not to use a block off plate. Chimney breathing is silly....

Ok cool - thanks!

 

[velvetfoot]

Is that just an ordinary, low efficiency, zero clearance fireplace?
What size insert would fit in there, with the rounded doors and all? Would a small insert make it in the basement?

 

[BsFire]

Sorry - not exactly sure what you mean by "zero clearance". It's a wood burning fireplace that I use on occasion. It has an ash dump and a small open/close rear vent. We actually used it this past winter when the furnace went out for a few days to keep the main living space fairly warm when home in the evenings. Kind of glad that happened. It showed us just how solid the house is. We were able to "survive" with a fire in the fireplace and a few space heaters in the dead of winter lol

I've decided to put an insert on the main floor vs the basement after LOTS of research and thinking. Eventually I'll put a stove in the basement - for now I want an insert where we spend time and where it make the biggest dent (or possibly replace) most of our propane costs.

Anyway... here are the measurements for the main floor (arched):
Back Width: 30.5"
Depth: 24"
Front Width" 36"
Height" 27.5" (at top of arch)

I had a buck dealer check it out at one point. He said a small portion of the current opening would need to be "chipped away" to get the 94 to fit, but it could be done.

Looks like we're using about 700 gallons from Sept to March in propane fuel (upwards of 2k in fuel costs depending on price per gallon) every year. Main goal is to knock down the propane bill - but at the same time, not burn us out of the main living space. With that said, I'm thinking a large catalytic insert would be the best choice. Of course long burn times are a factor. The Blaze King Princess is on my list of course. Haven't priced it out yet though.

 

[BsFire]

Just stopped in of the local shops (same one that told me a block off plate wasn't needed)... This time I was told the catalytic stoves were a bad idea because owners have to clean them 6 or 7 times a year - which includes taking some pieces apart.

First I've heard of that. Is there ANY truth to it?


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[Rickb]

no. your local shops guys must be idiots...

Unless they are talking about shoveling ash? I usually have to do that every week or 2.

 

[begreen]

Just stopped in of the local shops (same one that told me a block off plate wasn't needed)... This time I was told the catalytic stoves were a bad idea because owners have to clean them 6 or 7 times a year - which includes taking some pieces apart.

First I've heard of that. Is there ANY truth to it?

A leetle bit of truth. If you run the stove poorly and stir up a lot of ash and burn poor wood then maybe 2-4 times a year you may need to brush off the cat. Normally cleaning it is a once or twice a year affair. This can require removing a flame shield from in front of the cat and may mean replacing the gasket if the cat has to be removed, but that may not be necessary depending on the stove design. Run the stove correctly with dry wood and maintenance should be minimal.

Many shops will tell you a block off plate is not necessary and they are correct most of the time. However, it is a worthwhile option, especially if the chimney is exterior.

 

[Rickb]

A leetle bit of truth. If you run the stove poorly and stir up a lot of ash and burn poor wood then maybe 2-4 times a year you may need to brush off the cat. Normally cleaning it is a once or twice a year affair. This can require removing a flame shield from in front of the cat and may mean replacing the gasket if the cat has to be removed, but that may not be necessary depending on the stove design. Run the stove correctly with dry wood and maintenance should be minimal.

Many shops will tell you a block off plate is not necessary and they are correct most of the time. However, it is a worthwhile option, especially if the chimney is exterior.

Who cleans there cat 2-4 times a year.

 

[begreen]

Someone stirring up a lot of ash when cleaning it? It depends on the stove design too. Woodstock recommends regular checking and cleaning of fly ash from the cat on the IS.

 

[mellow]

I will clean mine twice a year, usually try to do it after a really nasty cold spell and I have been running the cat hard to make heat.

 

[Rickb]

I've looked at mine but its been 2.5 years and its never been dirty.....

 

[BsFire]

We know the people that built the house and they told is the basement was fireplace was built and "setup" for an insert. They just never put one in. I was only asking about the flue location bc of the liner connecting to the back/center of the insert.

Wouldn't the liner need be shaped like in this pic? Do you know if it would have any effect on the draft? Thanks again!

View attachment 156413

We've finally decided to put a freestanding stove in the basement. I don't mind if the stove needs to sit out on the hearth a little further to keep it out of the opening (resulting in more radiant heat). I can always add an extension. I'm still unsure about liner connection to the stove with the flue being to the far right side of the fireplace opening. I like some of the big stoves that require an 8" liner, but not sure if running the liner off of the back or top and up to the right will be a problem?

How much can the flexible liners bend?

 

[begreen]

Not that much. This could be a serious issue depending on the available wiggle room. If the intent is to connect a rear vent stove the connection would potentially have 3 90– turns coming right off a horiz. connection to the stove. Measure carefully. If this is not an option it might be possilbe to use a vertical flue outlet with a 30º or 45º elbow to go up a few feet over, diagonally and then a 90º to tap into the flue higher up.

 

[BsFire]

Not that much. This could be a serious issue depending on the available wiggle room. If the intent is to connect a rear vent stove the connection would potentially have 3 90– turns coming right off a horiz. connection to the stove. Measure carefully. If this is not an option it might be possilbe to use a vertical flue outlet with a 30º or 45º elbow to go up a few feet over, diagonally and then a 90º to tap into the flue higher up.

I'm really liking the Equinox 8000 - it's a big stove that takes an 8" liner, so I did my best at sizing it up - there's not much wiggle room, but I'm no expert, so looking for input.

From stove "legs" to outlet opening on top of stove it's 30 3/4" high. Given that height I have about 15" from the top stove outlet up and another 15" to the right, to the center of the flue. Do you think that's too tight of a space to bend an 8" liner and make it work?

I also checked the overall Equinox size against the overall open space that we have. It's tough to visualize and to go off of measurements alone - so I found a few things to help (see attached pics). I used a kids desk to represent the stove size (not exact - but close. It's nearly dead on in width - the box on top represents the height of the stove and yellow paint tub there to rep the liner - the actual liner will go back into the fireplace more). What do you think? I wouldn't be able to access the side door feed with it being sunk in so much... and it seems pretty tight. Is it stupid to fit a stove in so tightly?

 

[begreen]

I am wondering if you could rear-vent the stove with an 90º elbow or tee right off the flue collar that is angled toward the chimney. That way the flex would only need to a make a 45º sweep down to the elbow.

Whether you want things this tight is up to you. Some folks are willing to forgo the side door and others say no way. Another thing to think about is cleaning. The baffle board is fragile and would need to be removed which is not too easy. There are other stoves that will be easier to install, have a 6" flue collar and easy to remove baffle. But if the tee were accessible for cleaning then perhaps it would be ok.

 

[BsFire]

Ok - thanks! I appreciate the reply!

I'd be ok with not being able to use the side door. My biggest concern would be loss of radiant heat with sinking a stove this far. But, I guess if others do it, then maybe that's not a big deal?

This is the first I've heard of the baffle board - will have to do some searching to see what makes removing them difficult.

Even with this tight of a fit on sides and rear, there's a decent amount of room on top (about 5 1/2" of space from top of stove to stone - I can still get my hands and arms in there to access the stove outlet). Going to stop by another local shop in hopes that they'll have some liners that I can toy with and see how much flex there is. If I'm still doubting the fit, then I'll probably look into a smaller stove that takes a 6" liner.


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