Bigger saws!!!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Yogi

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 24, 2006
75
WOW!!! I had no idea that there were so many other saws out there besides the wild thing!!! I am wondering now if something larger might do me some good. I have several larger trees around me, maybe 48" across. Any ideas, or sugestions? I always thought the wild thing was more than enough, and there was nothing bigger, or needed to be, but this site has opened my eyes to newer things!!! Any thoughts guys?
 
Yogi, which ever saw works for you is the best saw you can own. Please keep safety in mind at all times. Most of these guys that are using these big "Pro" series saws are rightfully... "Pros" and have been doing it for a loooong time. Its a little like drag racing. If you are interested in racing, you probably are not gonna go to John Force's house and ask to drive his 4.5 sec dragster. (well ya might, but probably won't get very far.....at least I didn't).

Your choice of saws depends an awful lot on YOU. If you are bucking 3 or 4 cords for personal use or are you in the business and go thru a few HUNDRED or THOUSAND cords per yer. This will make a huge difference in the choice of saw you want to use.

Tons of info on this web site, sit back, enjoy, learn from these guys (cuz its a great bunch of guys) and once again. Welcome to the forum. :cheese:
 
MuckSavage said:
Would you want one for parts?


Parts? What do I need the parts for without the whole saw?
 
Wowzer Jags, I looked at some of the saws from the websites on the thing, neat saws!!!! I found out I have a Stihl dealer close by!! I went and looked at them this moring. I FELL IN LOVE WITH THE STIHL MS 441!!! THAT SAW SEEMED COOL!! The dealertold me I could probably run a 36" bar on it if I really wanted to! That saw was masive!!!! Made my wild thing look like a toy!! I really want one, and I can run a 16" bar on i too! WOW was that neat to see!!! I had no idea all of this stuff was out there!! I didn't know you could buy a 3 foot long bar!!!
Anyway, what do you guys think, would this be a good saw for me to get?
 
Yogi first thing is safety before you get a bigger saw. Make sure you get proper training on how to use the saw. Ask dealer about personal protection equipment and how to use it. When you go to the dealer ask him what saw or saws will serve your purpose. If you feel that the dealer will take care of you after your purchase then go ahead . Make sure you ask lots of question's.

Good luck
bobo
 
no.

A 36" bar? That's obscenely long and dangerous for someone to use who isn't experienced enough.

If I was you, I'd look at a Stihl 260, 270 or 290 and leave the monsters to the pros.
 
The first safty issue is the chainsaw. an even bigger "I see" is that he is looking to cut down 48" wide trees!
Yogi said:
I have several larger trees around me, maybe 48" across. Any ideas, or sugestions?
Yogi , you also need to learn how to fell a tree the correct way. 48" across X the height is a lot of mass! A lot of mass ! I have fell many trees this big but was only after years of practice and a lot on knowledge.
 
I have to agree with Corie and Rspike. I don't think this is the saw for you. I don't think you will find anyone but the pro's (and only the pro's that really NEED one) has that kinda equipment. Bigger is not always better. Choose a saw that meets your needs. Corie gave a list of real good choices and I would have to double ditto the MS290. But even the 290 is a very powerful saw , and all power equipment deserves respect. 48" trees are nothin' to be "practicing" on and should only be attempted by very experienced people. Please don't view this as a "yes mom" rant, just trying to "help a brother out".

And remember folks ALWAYS remember you personal safety gear.
 
Mucksavage: hat kind of saws are you talking about? I might need something larger latter :)

bobo, you mean like saftey glasses? I wear saftey glasse and leather boot with leather gloves when I am cutting, do I need more? Is there more?

Why could I not start ut with a saw like that with the smaller bar, then put on a larger one latter? I mainly cut up fallen trees, but have cut a few standing trees, like 16-18" across. Are the bigger trees really that much more dangerous? I really don't see how they could be? A tree will fall hereever the weight is leaning, no different than the small ones will right? as long as there is nothing in the way what can I hurt? What am I missing here?
Why do you say the ms 441 is a "pro" saw and not to get one?
Sorry for all the questions, but I guess I am missing something, or a lot of things here?
 
Yogi,

Logging is usually the first or second most dangerous profession in the world.

I know guys (am sure others on this forum do also) who have worked in the woods for thirty years and something happens to them whether it be a chainsaw cut or a tree gets away from them or a limb snaps back and pushes the saw into them..Guys with 30 years experience....it can happen to anybody...about a month ago I was at the Husky dealer and heard of 30 year pro who cut into his thigh limbing a down tree.

Google chainsaw chaps and you will see a first step in protective equipment. A chainsaw chain spinning at 10,000 + rpm will go through a leather boot like a hot knife through butter.

The words above and the advice of others is great advice. I am sure that you can find enough info on the web to get a good starter, however, there is absolutely no substitute for in the field experience..

When I first learned I was able to have someone walk me through everything! stood close to me and explained the steps..

Good Luck. Do not want to sound like a nagging hen, but pulling guys off the hill is not fun..

Maybe you can pm Eric Johnson, he might have some good training materials on working in the woods or can point you in the right direction.
 
Yogi
Vintage 181 and others above are right one the money. You need to know you'r limitations and skill level. Cutting down a 48" tree there is a lot that can go wrong. Get good training and allways wear you'r PPE. There is a big diffrence from that Wild thing to A MS441 Sthil.
 
Well, I looked up chaps, they look pretty nice I must say! May have to pick up a set!I think I saw something about a Stihl ms 406 I thought, would that be better for me? I looked up the ms 250 and 290 and they really don't allow to much flexebility with bar sizes and I really like the idea of one saw for all my needs! Wouldn't I be better off buying a 406 to start with?
 
Roospike said:
Yogi , Along with the chaps get your a logging helmet with face shield and ear muffs. here is a link to "help" its a good staring point. http://www.mytreelessons.com/ChainSaw.htm


Thank you Roo, that was good reading, I stil don't understand why it is so much more dangerous to cut down a bigger tree yet? Why is that so dangerous? I looked at the face sheild/helmet thing, how do you see out of that thing? How can that be safe? Ear muffs, are those bigger saws really that much louder?
 
A small tree that is 2,000 lbs standing stright up in the air 30' up VS a 20,000 lbs tree standing stright up in the air 50' high +.......... You dont see the danger difference ? #1 when cutting you HAVE to know how to contol the fall of the tree by how you cut it.and even at that there no 100% guarantee that tree will fall the direction you aim it. are you going to leave a hinge in the tree? how thick of hinge ? maybe just cut it all the way through .......... no hinge = lack of control and when that baby hits the ground the bottom of the trunk could kick back at you. I dont think you going to win against a tree coming back on a rebound bounce. Spring pole? You need to decide what kind of face cut your going to put in the tree ....... ware your back cut is going to be and how deep.Is the tree have a lean? Maybe you need to do a bore cut /////// Is it going to barber chair on you? Any idea how many wedges your going to need for a 48" wide tree to control the fall ? Do you have any widow makers ? Did you check ? Is the trunk hollow ? how is the weight of the tree for balance? wind speed ....... how is it ? any gusts ? how tall is the tree ? do you know where the top is going to land ? anybody around .... cars trucks people dogs ...... ? If you dont know the answers to these questions or what the questions even mean then i would stay away from a 48" wide tree. Do all the research you can and if you know somebody that cuts trees with a lot of experience ...........tag along. Control felling the small trees first before you even think about felling a large tree.
 
When he gets better he will be able to drop it on a beer can. Might take 40 years to master,but he will get it some day.
 
bobo said:
When he gets better he will be able to drop it on a beer can. Might take 40 years to master,but he will get it some day.

What is that supposed to mean? Am I not capable of learning? Am I too stupid to figure out some geometry? Man, what a jerk!!
 
Roospike said:
A small tree that is 2,000 lbs standing stright up in the air 30' up VS a 20,000 lbs tree standing stright up in the air 50' high +.......... You dont see the danger difference ? #1 when cutting you HAVE to know how to contol the fall of the tree buy how you cut it.and even at that there no 100% guarantee that tree will fall the direction you aim it. are you going to leave a hinge in the tree? how think of hinge ? maybe just cut it all the way through .......... no hinge = lack of control and when that baby hits the ground the bottom of the trunk could kick back at you. I dont think you going to win against a tree coming back on a rebound bounce. You need to deside what kind of face cut your going to put in the tree ....... ware your back cut is going to be and how deep. Any idea how many wedges your going to need for a 48" wide tree to control the fall ? Do you have any wido makers ? Did you check ? Is the trunk hollow ? how is the weight of the tree for balance? wind speed ....... how is it ? any gusts ? how tall is the tree ? do you know where the top is going to land ? anybody around .... cars trucks people dogs ...... ? If you dont know the answers to these questions or what the questions even mean then i would stay away from a 48" wide tree. Do all the research you can and if you know somebody that cuts trees with a lot of experience ...........tag along. Control felling the small trees first before you even think about felling a large tree.

Yes, I get the 45's law, I have a clue where it's going to go!!!! I am trying to learn here, I have read about the humbolt in magazines would this work for the larger trees I am looking at? Why can I not make a face cut aand have soemone pull it with a tractor while I do the back cut? I mean, if the lean is one way and I pull that way, it can't help but go that way, right?
 
Yogi said:
Roospike said:
A small tree that is 2,000 lbs standing stright up in the air 30' up VS a 20,000 lbs tree standing stright up in the air 50' high +.......... You dont see the danger difference ? #1 when cutting you HAVE to know how to contol the fall of the tree buy how you cut it.and even at that there no 100% guarantee that tree will fall the direction you aim it. are you going to leave a hinge in the tree? how think of hinge ? maybe just cut it all the way through .......... no hinge = lack of control and when that baby hits the ground the bottom of the trunk could kick back at you. I dont think you going to win against a tree coming back on a rebound bounce. You need to deside what kind of face cut your going to put in the tree ....... ware your back cut is going to be and how deep. Any idea how many wedges your going to need for a 48" wide tree to control the fall ? Do you have any wido makers ? Did you check ? Is the trunk hollow ? how is the weight of the tree for balance? wind speed ....... how is it ? any gusts ? how tall is the tree ? do you know where the top is going to land ? anybody around .... cars trucks people dogs ...... ? If you dont know the answers to these questions or what the questions even mean then i would stay away from a 48" wide tree. Do all the research you can and if you know somebody that cuts trees with a lot of experience ...........tag along. Control felling the small trees first before you even think about felling a large tree.

Yes, I get the 45's law, I have a clue where it's going to go!!!! I am trying to learn here, I have read about the humbolt in magazines would this work for the larger trees I am looking at? Why can I not make a face cut aand have soemone pull it with a tractor while I do the back cut? I mean, if the lean is one way and I pull that way, it can't help but go that way, right?
Lean? watch the leaners ......... ever seen a barber chair ? if its leaning you will want to look at doing a bore cut.
 
Yogi stick to clearing brush. That is something you and your wildthing can handle.
 
If you know exactly what i'm talking about in my post then you'll be on your way. I would still start with the smaller trees at first. Dont forget all your P.P.E.
A small tree that is 2,000 lbs standing stright up in the air 30’ up VS a 20,000 lbs tree standing stright up in the air 50’ high +.......... You dont see the danger difference ? #1 when cutting you HAVE to know how to contol the fall of the tree by how you cut it.and even at that there no 100% guarantee that tree will fall the direction you aim it. are you going to leave a hinge in the tree? how think of hinge ? maybe just cut it all the way through .......... no hinge = lack of control and when that baby hits the ground the bottom of the trunk could kick back at you. I dont think you going to win against a tree coming back on a rebound bounce. Spring pole? You need to decide what kind of face cut your going to put in the tree ....... ware your back cut is going to be and how deep.Is the tree have a lean? Maybe you need to do a bore cut /////// Is it goping to barber chain on you? Any idea how many wedges your going to need for a 48” wide tree to control the fall ? Do you have any widow makers ? Did you check ? Is the trunk hollow ? how is the weight of the tree for balance? wind speed ....... how is it ? any gusts ? how tall is the tree ? do you know where the top is going to land ? anybody around .... cars trucks people dogs ...... ? If you dont know the answers to these questions or what the questions even mean then i would stay away from a 48” wide tree. Do all the research you can and if you know somebody that cuts trees with a lot of experience ...........tag along. Control felling the small trees first before you even think about felling a large tree.
 
Uh yeah, I have had a lot of haircuts? What is with you guys and haircuts on here? What does this have to do with cutting down trees? Bore cut? Do I have to buy an auger too?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.