Used MS 460? Used MS 440? Something else? Saw advice needed.

  • Active since 1995, is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
It is a zenoah g5000 clone. Close-ups of the plastic looks like it is not even a "premium" copy.

They are all nearly identical, with various plastics, small bore changes for displacements from about 52 to 60cc. The cc advertised are suspect.

It doesn't matter, really as they weigh like a 50cc prosaw and run like a premium 50cc farm saw, while having pro engine construction (not plastic clam-shells). Great throttle response and rev to about 11500. The name brand-ers rev to 13 something. Many of them at the expense of thru the range torque.

I don't like the ones with the back screw on the air box cover (like that one). I prefer the top of the cover screw. Just easier.

You can get virtually the same saw for 100 or slightly less USD.

I have two of those zenoah g5000 copy saws. I almost can't believe how good they run. How long they will last, idk, but all indications are that they are just fine. And remarkable for the price.

I'd be looking at the "Wemars" and the "Supmix" ones, and maybe others. Ideally the 54.6cc ones (which is hard to figure out, in the case of many of them. Many are advertised wrongly.

I have a red supmix and a blue supmix. I think the red one is 54.6cc and the blue one is maybe 58 or 61cc or something like that. They both rip pretty good. And I'm comparing them to some "proper" 50cc pro saws I have.

The red saw's plastics are not as good as the blue saw's plastics are better, pretty decent quality, really, but not like a husky or a stihl, but acceptable. Just don't throw it around or throw crap on top of them, like any saw. They vibrate like an 80's, early 90's saw. The bars and chains are ok, but not pro in any way, shape or form. Idk. They seem really good for the price to me. Oh, and they come with fine mesh air filters, which I prefer greatly over the other 3 types. This based on having several high hour, 30 year old name branders with mesh filters that are just fine and still on the original filter. Dirt bikes need foam. Powersaws do not. Imo. And I don't like paper filters either. Just me.

Proyama also has some models based on the same chassis. Proyama plastics are probably pretty good. I say probably because I also have one of those little zenoah g2500 copies and it has pretty nice plastics. And also runs really well. Not a screamer, but a torquey little thing with decently high revs.

All of those three I mentioned will run full bar cuts, even ripping, no problem. Even dawged-in a pulling a little. So they have plenty of power for their size. Will they hold up? I don't know. But a hundred bux for a 55-ish cc saw that runs really well is a steal. They are not premium saws, but they run better than a lot of name brand "farm" saws, imo.

The chinese saw thing for me started with the little proyama. I wanted a saw that would fit easily on/in the haying tractors, because no matter what you do around here, there's always trees laying in the headlands even after you've cleaned them up even a week before. The aspens are all falling down, quickly and surely. It works so well that now I have more chinese saws and I'm thinking of selling an Echo 590 and a Husky 262xp and maybe another saw or two...the Echo because it's nothing special , but a good saw. I hate the way the air filter gets so dirty so easily and is felt, so it's a pita to clean. Plus it handles like a cinder block. Other than that - great saw. The 262xp because I just like the jonsered bar bend better, and I have some of those. It might be hard to part with the 262 because it's such a raw, sportscar of a saw. We'll see.

I think 550 is a decent deal for a 362. I’d rather buy a commercially run one than a homeowner saw. Odds are that commercial guy was WAY more careful with his fuel mix and kept the heat sinks reasonably clean to keep the saw running cooler. He probably has a bag of air filters and knows how to tune the carb so it not running lean all the time. He probably has a few saws so he doesn’t necessarily kill just one all the time. Put a compression gauge on it and see how high it goes. If it’s over 145 you’re probably fine.

I have a 562 husky (pretty equivalent to a Stihl 362) that I threw A new piston in a while back. I have been running the snot out of with a 24 inch bar for at least four months. I’ve always run 20 inch on my 60cc saws, but I had just finished the 562 and I had a 24 inch bar laying around from my 572 so I slapped it on and told myself I would get a 20 soon enough. (My other 60cc is a modded 359 that uses the husky small Mount bars). I have been well pleased with the way the 562 handles the 24 with a good sharp chain. I will eventually get a 20 for it, but only because I have 28 on my 572. I also get a lot of wood from my buddy who has a tree business so I sometimes get some 36 inch and even bigger stuff. If all I had was that 562 I would be absolutely fine. I’d probably run a 20 all the time and keep a 24 at the ready for any exceptionally large stuff that came my way.
  • Like
Reactions: Garrin
They vibrate like an 80's, early 90's saw.


Is this true for all the chinese saws? For me that's a big non starter. I had a small poulan that vibrated badly, just 20 minutes of cutting would numb my hands.

Oh i still have it. If anyone in Utah wants it they can have it for free.
My china clone has anti-vibe just like a stock 372XP would have.


This is what the powerhead looked like when I got it. You can buy them full assembled too.

Is this true for all the chinese saws? For me that's a big non starter. I had a small poulan that vibrated badly, just 20 minutes of cutting would numb my hands.

Oh i still have it. If anyone in Utah wants it they can have it for free.
No idea about ALL copy saws.

All the ones I have have rubber antivibe. They are not that bad, but are no match for full spring antivibe setups. It's a design thing more than a component thing, I believe.
  • Like
Reactions: bigealta