I am a proud owner of the BK Ashford and have decided to pull the trigger on the Sirroco to heat my new 1000 SF well insulated wood shop but.... Here's my question:Can I anticipate draft issues if I run approximately 6 ft single wall straight up from stove then turn 90 through exterior wall and turn 90 again straight up to avoid the 12" gable eave? The exterior will be Duravent double wall. Unfortunately, straight up from the stove is not a good option. Any advice to lessen the chances of problems is appreciated.
BK Sirroco drafting issues
- Thread starter Bootjack
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You couldn't manage the offset using 45s instead of 90s? Also you are aware that stoves are not allowed in wood shops per code?
Going straight up through the roof will perform better. BK recommends double-wall stovepipe for the connector.
begreen, double wall inside and out is recommended? Would it draft better if it was all double wall? I understand straight up is preferable but it is not an option.
Double-wall stovepipe inside the room connected to double-wall chimney pipe (aka class A) as it exits the room to the outside.
I could do 45's if necessary but IMO it's not very attractive on interior. Do you think it will draft ok w/ (2) 90's? or (1) 90 interior and (2) 45's exterior? Can you attach a "T "w/ cleanout to a 45? Would adding an extra length of verticle pipe help after install "if" I had draft problems?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Two 90's are not a problem, if total stack height is sufficient to overcome their losses. You're aiming for 15 feet effective, which I believe would be achieved around 20 feet measured height with two 90's.
Good on you for putting them 6 feet above stove top. I believe BK recommends 3 feet minimum, before first 90.
As noted, dual 45's can be better, but if that results in the first bend being closer to stove top, it may be a wash.
Good on you for putting them 6 feet above stove top. I believe BK recommends 3 feet minimum, before first 90.
As noted, dual 45's can be better, but if that results in the first bend being closer to stove top, it may be a wash.
Ok so higher is better for draft. I was wondering about the reason why double wall pipe is recommended on interior. I always liked single wall so more heat radiates into the space. Would that have a determental effect on the draft? Thanks
It makes the flue temps lower which decreases draft and produces more creosote. The stove is supposed to do the heating not the exhaust.
There are no 45º exterior chimney fittings. The 45s should go inside. If done neatly and plumb, they look fine.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Less efficient stoves of the past put a lot of heat up the flue, so using single wall to reclaim some of that heat made sense. But modern stoves are so efficient that you really can't afford to lose any of the very small amount of heat they're putting up the flue, without having issues of creosote condensation, and even potential draft issues.
In other words, reclaiming heat off single-wall pipe was a band-aid fix for a bad stove design. Modern stoves of better design not only don't require this, but suffer from it.
In my workshop I have a 10' length of single wall to the ceiling above my permitted stove installation. I wish it was double wall. Double wall is stainless steel so it will essentially last forever, it will draft better in the cold shop which is especially important with an efficient stove like the BK, it will be less likely to accumulate creosote because it will stay warmer. The stove makes the heat, not the pipe.
Thanks all. You all got me wondering if the Sirrocco is a wise choice. I have a Fisher Mamma Bear sitting in the barn...rear exit flue. Straight out with only one 90 up. Not efficient, but well built.
A cat stove is not well suited for a shop application. At least not the typical shop that is allowed to cool between uses. You really need huge output for a rapid warmup of a cold and massive shop. You really can’t get too much heat. Wood consumption doesn’t really matter because you will only burn it occasionally.
Wood furnaces are a good match.
Wood furnaces are a good match.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Less efficient = more wood consumption. But I agree with Highbeam that a BK cat stove is really for installations where you intend to have it going 24/7. They rule at low and slow cruising.
If your goal is coming out to a cold shop and getting it warm fast, and not worried about maximum burn time, I'd be buying an Englander 30NC. Why spend more for performance advantages you'll never use?
Good advice. Any thoughts on my Fisher mamma bear? I know it's not approved. This is my shop and it will be self insured. I don't like the rear exit and that it has 8" diameter flue. The previous owner had it reduced down to 6". Said it burned just fine. I will look at the Englander.
I have the englander NC30 in my shop. It's now an NC32 but almost the same stove. Englander was recently purchased by SBI who also sells the drolet line. The biggest drolets would be good shop stove too.
You will most likely abuse this stove. Or at least use it in ways that the original design did not intend. Most stoves spend most of their lives burning at the lowest clean output that the operator can muster. It's just the way it is, and the actual statistics prove it. Your shop application will be max output almost all the time which is a bit tougher on the equipment. My nc30 has held up pretty well but I monitor temperatures and have never made it glow.
My point is don't spend a lot of money on this thing. A basic, safe, plate steel stove from a good brand will get nice and hot.
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