Blaze King Ashford 30 owners

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To quote from page 21 in Ashford manual...
"Use dry seasoned wood, split and stacked and protected from rain for at least 24 months with a moisture content of 20% or lower. It takes a great deal of energy to evaporate the moisture contained in green wood and that energy will not be heating your house."

And their testing for the Ashford was done with MC between 19-25%.
Thanks! Someone on here said 16% and they even built a solar kiln to dry the wood. Now you have the added work of the kiln and moving the wood again. I don't want more work which is why I am looking at a cat stove on the first place.
Any modern stove is going to want dry wood to perform optimally. This is the same for the Ashford, F55 or Heritage. Top covered oak should dry in 2 yrs. if the stacks are where the sun shines and the wind can blow through them.
Any modern stove is going to want dry wood to perform optimally. This is the same for the Ashford, F55 or Heritage. Top covered oak should dry in 2 yrs. if the stacks are where the sun shines and the wind can blow through them.
 
Any modern stove is going to want dry wood to perform optimally. This is the same for the Ashford, F55 or Heritage. Top covered oak should dry in 2 yrs. if the stacks are where the sun shines and the wind can blow through them.
How do you think I heat my home now? My Heritage heats my 1900 sq ft home in a northern climate.been doing it for years. Without a cat stove or a big non cat. I think I am doing just fine. Any stove should be able to burn 20% moisture wood.
 
Thanks! Someone on here said 16% and they even built a solar kiln to dry the wood. Now you have the added work of the kiln and moving the wood again. I don't want more work which is why I am looking at a cat stove on the first place.

Don’t confuse the entertaining gyrations of a seriously OCD burning geek with a requirement. I’m burning some unquestionably wet oak in my Ashfords right now, stuff that literally hisses and squeals on loading, and find it burns fine. It takes longer to bake out and get up to temp before closing the bypass damper, and chimney buildup is worse during that initial bypass phase, but it cruises just fine after the combustor goes active.

I’m not sure where the idea that cat stoves are more fussy about dry wood than non cats came from, but I think it must be the other way around. Cat stoves start in bypass, where most of the moisture is cooked out. Then, they achieve and maintain secondary combustion at 450-500F, whereas a non cat requires an insane 1100F to do the same. Now, which do you think is going to have more issues with a little moisture in the exhaust gas?
 
Not to fuel the fire (ha) on cat vs non cat, but...

Here’s my .02 after burning a BK for a season after using a few non-cats for heating:

IF for primary/only heating, the ability to “turn down” the BK to either smooth out the heat curve or extend a burn cycle is huuugely advantageous. Basically never a cold start, and never a cold house, as long as you tend it “once in a while” depending on the size of the box. For me that was once per day. Twice when around -10C or colder, to put a couple of splits on in the AM to maintain. Also, as many have said, when you want a flame show, just turn it up. Looks and acts mostly like a non-cat. We do that when entertaining or whatnot for ambiance.

If not for primary/only heating then take your pick.

If you like to tinker with the fire, open the door, poke around, add a split, multiple times per day, do not get a BK!
 
Thanks! Someone on here said 16% and they even built a solar kiln to dry the wood. Now you have the added work of the kiln and moving the wood again. I don't want more work which is why I am looking at a cat stove on the first place.

Don’t confuse the entertaining gyrations of a seriously OCD burning geek with a requirement.

What I said, in post 28, was:
Price, quality, service, pick any two.

My A30 was more expensive than most of the automobiles i have owned. Mine is a well built, high quality, trouble free product.

Fwiw mine will burn fuel at 20%MC, but the real sweet spot for my install is 12-16%. I built a solar powered wood kiln to get my fuel that dry dependably. The year i was over zealous and had 8 cords at 8% BK was right there with me figuring out how to heat my home without hurting the stove.

I have operated dozens of pre epa wood stoves, one epa cert non cat, and have three seasons on my A30. I am not likely to buy a woodstove from anyone but BK for the rest of my life.


I do NOT have the added work of moving the wood again. I stack green splits in the kiln, I operate the kiln more skillfully than I did the first year, I pull wood out of the kiln and put it in the woodstove. I do lean on my wood stove hard. My stove runs enough better at 12-16% that I make cords and cords of fuel at that specific MC every year. It is easily worth the trouble, my install, my heating load, my burning practices. This year everything I have stuck pins in has come up 13-14-15%, and I am happy as a clam.

User @BKVP here, who knows a thing or two about BK stoves, has posted numerous times it is OK to run BK stoves on fuel at 22%. I have never heard him say that it was ideal or even desirable, only "OK."

In the few weeks I have been a member here my observation is that modern stoves start running correctly with fuel at 20-22%MC, and do better and better with drier and drier wood down to about 10-11-12%. Below that they don't act right.
 
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I feel the exact same. The simplicity and durability of the stove is perfect. How often do you have to refill your stove? Do you burn 24/7? I contacted Jotul on Facebook and they responded on a Sunday. I am interested in the cats stoves as well. The BK seems really fussy for needing dry wood. 16-18 % is about three years of drying time for white and red oak. I don't like the idea of having to go three years on stacking. Woodstock says season 2 years and around 20%.

I reload about every 4 hours to maintain 400 degree stove stop when burning 24/7 when in the teens outside. This is mainly due to excessive draft (25ft chimney) of which I am taking care of with a damper hopefully. Other users have reported around 7-8 from what I can tell in the scenario I mention above. I need 400 degree plus STT as my house is quite leaky.
 
I have two Ashford 30’s, and I can’t say enough good things about them. There is really no other brand I’d even consider, if buying another stove, today.

BKVP has acknowledged there have been a very small pool of users with a smoke smell issue. The total count was less than a dozen, out of many thousands of stoves sold. I believe by last count, all but two of these cases have been resolved. There was no single smoking gun, each situation and solution was unique. What’s important is that BK supported these users, and resolved their issue, in at least one case sending out a new stove. You should read the thread, and satisfy yourself, but it appeared BK went above and beyond to make sure every one of these few cases gets resolved. Admirable.

On stove performance, BK is a Ferrari in a world of Camrys. No other stove can match their range of burn rate. Heck, most can’t even cover a third of their range of burn rates.

Their thermostat is the shiznit, increasing air as the fire wanes, to maintain more constant output throughout the burn. They’re so rote and automatic, some accuse them of being boring.

I load my stoves on a schedule that suits me, namely every 12, 24, or 36 hours, and just set the thermostat to the setting that will consistently nail those burn times. It is very consistent, in all weather conditions. I’m no longer slave to feeding two stoves on the schedule they demand, like I was with my Jotuls. Find me another 2.65 cu ft stove that can burn 30+ hours, and I’m all ears, but I don’t think it exists.

I’d not even consider buying a non-cat, when there’s better tech out there, but some like dickering with inferior technology. To each his own. We see a lot of folks here switching from non cat to modern cat stoves, but very rarely the other way around.

The only issue I’ve ever experienced with my Ashford 30’s, having about 60 cords thru the pair, was self-inflicted. I have one installed on a chimney that exceeds their max draft spec by more than 3x (it’s a very, very tall fully-insulated chimney), and this causes so much turbulence of ash flying around in the stove that it would occasionally plug the combustor on very high burn rates. This seems to have been resolved by installing a key damper to throttle the draft down closer to the BK spec, and I believe I’d have issues running ANY stove in this pipe. I’d not even think of running a runaway non-cat on a chimney like this, it’d likely become a puddle of molten iron on my floor.

You mention Woodstock, and almost all of the same can be said about them. Another great company, with great technology, who stands behind their users. I can’t say anything bad about Woodstock, except I don’t think their stoves are very attractive, and soapstone would never work in my (unique) house.

I would never buy a Jotul again. They flat-out refuse to speak with or support their users. I don’t have any desire to deal with a company like that. They also only make non-cats.
Thanks for this info, I will take it into consideration. I am looking seriously at the Jotul Rockland 550 and while customer support wasn't really on my radar, it is now.
 
What I said, in post 28, was:



I do NOT have the added work of moving the wood again. I stack green splits in the kiln, I operate the kiln more skillfully than I did the first year, I pull wood out of the kiln and put it in the woodstove. I do lean on my wood stove hard. My stove runs enough better at 12-16% that I make cords and cords of fuel at that specific MC every year. It is easily worth the trouble, my install, my heating load, my burning practices. This year everything I have stuck pins in has come up 13-14-15%, and I am happy as a clam.

User @BKVP here, who knows a thing or two about BK stoves, has posted numerous times it is OK to run BK stoves on fuel at 22%. I have never heard him say that it was ideal or even desirable, only "OK."

In the few weeks I have been a member here my observation is that modern stoves start running correctly with fuel at 20-22%MC, and do better and better with drier and drier wood down to about 10-11-12%. Below that they don't act right.
Thanks, I misinderStood you,
 
Not to fuel the fire (ha) on cat vs non cat, but...

Here’s my .02 after burning a BK for a season after using a few non-cats for heating:

IF for primary/only heating, the ability to “turn down” the BK to either smooth out the heat curve or extend a burn cycle is huuugely advantageous. Basically never a cold start, and never a cold house, as long as you tend it “once in a while” depending on the size of the box. For me that was once per day. Twice when around -10C or colder, to put a couple of splits on in the AM to maintain. Also, as many have said, when you want a flame show, just turn it up. Looks and acts mostly like a non-cat. We do that when entertaining or whatnot for ambiance.

If not for primary/only heating then take your pick.

If you like to tinker with the fire, open the door, poke around, add a split, multiple times per day, do not get a BK!
No I just want to cut down on reloading,
 
Don’t confuse the entertaining gyrations of a seriously OCD burning geek with a requirement. I’m burning some unquestionably wet oak in my Ashfords right now, stuff that literally hisses and squeals on loading, and find it burns fine. It takes longer to bake out and get up to temp before closing the bypass damper, and chimney buildup is worse during that initial bypass phase, but it cruises just fine after the combustor goes active.

I’m not sure where the idea that cat stoves are more fussy about dry wood than non cats came from, but I think it must be the other way around. Cat stoves start in bypass, where most of the moisture is cooked out. Then, they achieve and maintain secondary combustion at 450-500F, whereas a non cat requires an insane 1100F to do the same. Now, which do you think is going to have more issues with a little moisture in the exhaust gas?
Great point Ashful. I will probably end up buying the Ashford 30. The stars are aligning in that direction. Talking to a dealer right now via text and email on the house size and chimney info.
 
No I just want to cut down on reloading,
Sounds like a "serious" aka "primary" aka "main" heating situation. In which case I have drunk the kool-aid and do heartily recommend a cat stove. I do notice less wood usage--I think a significant factor in that for me is the slow and steady burn thing that keeps temps quite stable in the house.

You're doing your homework, I'm sure you'll pick a winner. Good luck and have fun with it :)
 
I reload about every 4 hours to maintain 400 degree stove stop when burning 24/7 when in the teens outside. This is mainly due to excessive draft (25ft chimney) of which I am taking care of with a damper hopefully. Other users have reported around 7-8 from what I can tell in the scenario I mention above. I need 400 degree plus STT as my house is quite leaky.
How do you clean your F55? With a ash vac? I am just curious. One BK dealer has a problem with my chimney so he never called me back. I am going to have to look at the Jotul and Woodstock again.
 
One BK dealer has a problem with my chimney so he never called me back. I am going to have to look at the Jotul and Woodstock again.

You are more finicky than my middle school girlfriends. What happened to the second BK dealer, who called you back today?

Lots of drama, here.
 
I called a second BK dealer. I have not heard back from them yet. I am not making the stuff up. I see can why Woodstock dumped the dealers. If you don't like my post don't respond.
 
You are more finicky than my middle school girlfriends. What happened to the second BK dealer, who called you back today?

Lots of drama, here.

X2,

Does the dealers opinion matter here because they’re needed for the install?

The way I see it is the chimney is already in place buy the 30 from the cheapest dealer and plug it in. :)
 
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X2,

Does the dealers opinion matter here because they’re needed for the install?

The way I see it is the chimney is already in place buy the 30 from the cheapest dealer and plug it in. :)
The dealer has to do the install for insurance. I can't do the install. I have called two dealers and no luck so far. I won't bother with this anymore.
 
How do you clean your F55? With a ash vac? I am just curious. One BK dealer has a problem with my chimney so he never called me back. I am going to have to look at the Jotul and Woodstock again.
I simply use an oversized metal dustpan....1 or 2 scoops and dump in metal container outside. Easy peasy.
 
I simply use an oversized metal dustpan....1 or 2 scoops and dump in metal container outside. Easy peasy.
Thanks I appreciate your time and response.
 
The dealer has to do the install for insurance. I can't do the install. I have called two dealers and no luck so far. I won't bother with this anymore.
I'd be looking for another insurance company...
 
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The dealer has to do the install for insurance. I can't do the install. I have called two dealers and no luck so far. I won't bother with this anymore.

How would the Woodstock stove get installed to your insurance companies satisfaction?

Will they except a certified chimney sweep? I would hate to see the insurance company decide which stove you can install. <>
 
You are more finicky than my middle school girlfriends. What happened to the second BK dealer, who called you back today?

Lots of drama, here.
You nailed it.lol. is Woodstock going out and installing their stoves now?
 
The dealer has to do the install for insurance. I can't do the install. I have called two dealers and no luck so far. I won't bother with this anymore.
Ask your insurance company if they would approve the stove being installed by a CSIA certified chimney sweep. That can be an option and sometimes it's a better one.
 
How do you clean your F55? ... I am going to have to look at the Jotul and Woodstock again.
You need to read this thread before even considering a tube stove like the F55. Seriously.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cat-price-point-of-diminishing-returns.167827/

For the masses of folks buying a wood stove to burn while watching a movie on Friday evening, tube stoves have their place. But they just can’t cover the same burn rate range as cat stoves, for the purpose of heating your house 24/7, in all sorts of weather.

Combine that with Jotul’s completely non-existent customer service, as compared to BK and Woodstock being two of the best in the industry in that regard, and I don’t understand how you could even THINK about buying an F55 for heating your home.
 
You need to read this thread before even considering a tube stove like the F55. Seriously.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cat-price-point-of-diminishing-returns.167827/

For the masses of folks buying a wood stove to burn while watching a movie on Friday evening, tube stoves have their place. But they just can’t cover the same burn rate range as cat stoves, for the purpose of heating your house 24/7, in all sorts of weather.

Combine that with Jotul’s completely non-existent customer service, as compared to BK and Woodstock being two of the best in the industry in that regard, and I don’t understand how you could even THINK about buying an F55 for heating your home.
Well shucks I'm not sure I follow...and im honestly not trying to pick on you ashful. I could have put in an IS or PH (limited to rear exit install) and I picked the f55 on purpose and for good reason after hours of research for my application and more important my philosophy of heating my home. To be honest I'm interested in using an IS in my house but purchasing cats in my application doesn't make sense to me with MY philosophy of use. Many happy f55 users out there happily heating their homes so saying that you couldnt believe someone would think of getting one just doesn't quite make sense. Perhaps im missing something.
 
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