Blaze King Ashford Issues

[stoveliker]

I would put in a probe thermometer in the stove pipe 18" above the stove.
I'd keep that above 250 F for the first 2/3 of the burn (for a 16 ft flue; taller flues may need a bit more due to the ongoing cool down on the way up to the top). In the last 1/3 of the burn there's not much stuff produced that would deposit.

Many here buy from midwest hearth. BK says their own are better. That may be or may not be. The question is whether it's worth double the price (are you getting double the life out of them? Nobody knows.)

I have no hesitation buying midwest hearth.

 

[kborndale]

Top only is covered by tarp, allowing air flow. I have tested several pieces of oak. They're measuring 12-15% in the middle.

To rectify, I'm going to try to split the rest of my wood this season and let it sit. I need to build a wood crib. I'd attempt to buy "seasoned" splits for next season, but I've found firewood services to be unreliable in their assessment of "seasoned."

Again, I think my biggest issue is removing the glaze of creosote. I Just brush the chimney. I've called several sweeps, one of which did nothing and took 275 dollars. others are not taking new clients or are not returning my calls.

As to buying wood, you are correct. If you buy wood expect it to need at least a year to season before it is ready to burn. As for sweeps, they are all very busy during heating season, over the summer you will probably have better luck finding a new one.

 

[Tron]

I have a crate like that.

The problem with them is, they hold about a cubic meter or a bit less than 1/3 of a cord. So depending on your wood consumption, you'll need quite a few of them to stay ahead.
I'm planning three years ahead and we burn about 2 cord a year or thereabouts, so I currently have 16 of those but may need some more.
But we're a) in a subtropical climate and b) burn already dead pine wood, so the drying time is probably shorter than further north.

 

[wyoung9074]

The problem with them is, they hold about a cubic meter or a bit less than 1/3 of a cord. So depending on your wood consumption, you'll need quite a few of them to stay ahead.
I'm planning three years ahead and we burn about 2 cord a year or thereabouts, so I currently have 16 of those but may need some more.
But we're a) in a subtropical climate and b) burn already dead pine wood, so the drying time is probably shorter than further north.

Yea this is why I need to just break down and build a wood crib.

 

[Tron]

Yea this is why I need to just break down and build a wood crib.

Here's the silo version. Rather cheap and holds a lot of wood:

T

Thread 'Firewood drying and storage in cheap silos'

Feb 25, 2020

All,

As this storage method seems largely unknown here, I'd like to introduce it. It's really cheap and dries wood perfectly.

You just need a sheet of construction remesh (heavy duty, size can vary but I used 8*20'), some nylon rope and a tarp. The remesh is rolled into a tube and tied close with the rope, overlapping one segment You can add wood to it whenever you want, as you can see in the picture the upper half is newer wood. No need to stack it, just toss it in.
When you want to retrieve some, you cut a door into the lower part of it, bend the remesh open, and take the wood out...

• Tron
• Replies: 50
• Forum: The Wood Shed

• 

Best to use a pallet and some branches as the bottom so the wood doesn't touch the ground. Although I do have the occasional rotted split in the bottom layer, but not often.

 

[begreen]

Top only is covered by tarp, allowing air flow. I have tested several pieces of oak. They're measuring 12-15% in the middle.

To rectify, I'm going to try to split the rest of my wood this season and let it sit. I need to build a wood crib. I'd attempt to buy "seasoned" splits for next season, but I've found firewood services to be unreliable in their assessment of "seasoned."

Again, I think my biggest issue is removing the glaze of creosote. I Just brush the chimney. I've called several sweeps, one of which did nothing and took 275 dollars. others are not taking new clients or are not returning my calls.

If the firewood is fully seasoned, then the culprit is likely a dead or dying catalyst. The glazed creosote is an ugly result. It's good that you caught this. Is it mostly just at the top section of exposed chimney pipe? If so, brush very clean and use Cre-away to break down the rest, then reclean.

https://www.amazon.com/Cre-Away-Creosote-Modifier-16-Oz/dp/B01NBRLV0Z

 

[wyoung9074]

If the firewood is fully seasoned, then the culprit is likely a dead or dying catalyst. The glazed creosote is an ugly result. It's good that you caught this. Is it mostly just at the top section of exposed chimney pipe? If so, brush very clean and use Cre-away to break down the rest, then reclean.

https://www.amazon.com/Cre-Away-Creosote-Modifier-16-Oz/dp/B01NBRLV0Z

Is cre-away combustor safe?

 

[Tron]

Is cre-away combustor safe?

Probably not, but the idea is to get that directly into the flue.
So I'd probably build a very small fire with some kindling to get draft going, wait until it's almost out and then spray that stuff up the rear of the stove with the bypass open. All while trying not to burn your hands. YMMV.