Blaze King Ashford Issues

[stoveliker]

I would put in a probe thermometer in the stove pipe 18" above the stove.
I'd keep that above 250 F for the first 2/3 of the burn (for a 16 ft flue; taller flues may need a bit more due to the ongoing cool down on the way up to the top). In the last 1/3 of the burn there's not much stuff produced that would deposit.

Many here buy from midwest hearth. BK says their own are better. That may be or may not be. The question is whether it's worth double the price (are you getting double the life out of them? Nobody knows.)

I have no hesitation buying midwest hearth.

 

[kborndale]

Top only is covered by tarp, allowing air flow. I have tested several pieces of oak. They're measuring 12-15% in the middle.

To rectify, I'm going to try to split the rest of my wood this season and let it sit. I need to build a wood crib. I'd attempt to buy "seasoned" splits for next season, but I've found firewood services to be unreliable in their assessment of "seasoned."

Again, I think my biggest issue is removing the glaze of creosote. I Just brush the chimney. I've called several sweeps, one of which did nothing and took 275 dollars. others are not taking new clients or are not returning my calls.

As to buying wood, you are correct. If you buy wood expect it to need at least a year to season before it is ready to burn. As for sweeps, they are all very busy during heating season, over the summer you will probably have better luck finding a new one.

 

[Tron]

I have a crate like that.

The problem with them is, they hold about a cubic meter or a bit less than 1/3 of a cord. So depending on your wood consumption, you'll need quite a few of them to stay ahead.
I'm planning three years ahead and we burn about 2 cord a year or thereabouts, so I currently have 16 of those but may need some more.
But we're a) in a subtropical climate and b) burn already dead pine wood, so the drying time is probably shorter than further north.

 

[wyoung9074]

The problem with them is, they hold about a cubic meter or a bit less than 1/3 of a cord. So depending on your wood consumption, you'll need quite a few of them to stay ahead.
I'm planning three years ahead and we burn about 2 cord a year or thereabouts, so I currently have 16 of those but may need some more.
But we're a) in a subtropical climate and b) burn already dead pine wood, so the drying time is probably shorter than further north.

Yea this is why I need to just break down and build a wood crib.

 

[Tron]

Yea this is why I need to just break down and build a wood crib.

Here's the silo version. Rather cheap and holds a lot of wood:

T

Thread 'Firewood drying and storage in cheap silos'

Feb 25, 2020

All,

As this storage method seems largely unknown here, I'd like to introduce it. It's really cheap and dries wood perfectly.

You just need a sheet of construction remesh (heavy duty, size can vary but I used 8*20'), some nylon rope and a tarp. The remesh is rolled into a tube and tied close with the rope, overlapping one segment You can add wood to it whenever you want, as you can see in the picture the upper half is newer wood. No need to stack it, just toss it in.
When you want to retrieve some, you cut a door into the lower part of it, bend the remesh open, and take the wood out...

• Tron
• Replies: 50
• Forum: The Wood Shed

• 

Best to use a pallet and some branches as the bottom so the wood doesn't touch the ground. Although I do have the occasional rotted split in the bottom layer, but not often.

 

[begreen]

Top only is covered by tarp, allowing air flow. I have tested several pieces of oak. They're measuring 12-15% in the middle.

To rectify, I'm going to try to split the rest of my wood this season and let it sit. I need to build a wood crib. I'd attempt to buy "seasoned" splits for next season, but I've found firewood services to be unreliable in their assessment of "seasoned."

Again, I think my biggest issue is removing the glaze of creosote. I Just brush the chimney. I've called several sweeps, one of which did nothing and took 275 dollars. others are not taking new clients or are not returning my calls.

If the firewood is fully seasoned, then the culprit is likely a dead or dying catalyst. The glazed creosote is an ugly result. It's good that you caught this. Is it mostly just at the top section of exposed chimney pipe? If so, brush very clean and use Cre-away to break down the rest, then reclean.

https://www.amazon.com/Cre-Away-Creosote-Modifier-16-Oz/dp/B01NBRLV0Z

 

[wyoung9074]

If the firewood is fully seasoned, then the culprit is likely a dead or dying catalyst. The glazed creosote is an ugly result. It's good that you caught this. Is it mostly just at the top section of exposed chimney pipe? If so, brush very clean and use Cre-away to break down the rest, then reclean.

https://www.amazon.com/Cre-Away-Creosote-Modifier-16-Oz/dp/B01NBRLV0Z

Is cre-away combustor safe?

 

[Tron]

Is cre-away combustor safe?

Probably not, but the idea is to get that directly into the flue.
So I'd probably build a very small fire with some kindling to get draft going, wait until it's almost out and then spray that stuff up the rear of the stove with the bypass open. All while trying not to burn your hands. YMMV.

 

[wyoung9074]

Probably not, but the idea is to get that directly into the flue.
So I'd probably build a very small fire with some kindling to get draft going, wait until it's almost out and then spray that stuff up the rear of the stove with the bypass open. All while trying not to burn your hands. YMMV.

Well, I think I'm going to have to try. There's a strong lack of chimney sweeps in my area.

 

[Tron]

Well, I think I'm going to have to try. There's a strong lack of chimney sweeps in my area.

Yes, you mentioned that.
In any case, that glazed creosote seems to be the result of wet wood and/or an ineffective cat. So I'd get a new cat if I were you.
You may not be able to warranty it within 10 years with BK because I think you said you're the 2nd owner of the stove. I think that only applies to the original purchaser.

 

[stoveliker]

BK advises against creosote removal products, for reasons of the cat.
So if you do this, do it with the old cat still installed - not the new cat.

I have wondered about whether this would work by putting the stuff in a horizontal section of the pipe and then burning as hot as you can with a whole load.
What's the temperature this stuff needs to get to to be effective?

 

[wyoung9074]

BK advises against creosote removal products, for reasons of the cat.
So if you do this, do it with the old cat still installed - not the new cat.

I have wondered about whether this would work by putting the stuff in a horizontal section of the pipe and then burning as hot as you can with a whole load.
What's the temperature this stuff needs to get to to be effective?

This is my thinking, too. Not sure I'll do it with a new cat, but I can't hurt right now. The nice thing about the cre-away is you squirt it into the chimney with the bypass open. After doing some research, I think I'm going to build a small fire to one side and get it burning before reaching in to spray the cre-away.

 

[stoveliker]

Have good long gloves...

 

[begreen]

Is cre-away combustor safe?

Probably not. Use with a hot fire and the bypass open. I was assuming the cat is getting replaced.

 

[stoveliker]

The instructions (online) say to spray it in the flue, and that the fire is only needed to create an updraft (so you don't have powder coming in the room).
And that a fire after that is needed to activate it.

I.e. there is no fire needed during the spraying, other than to create draft up the flue.

Given that I've always wondered what turbulence would do for powder between the bypass and the back of the cat, and how long any powder might stay around that hits the (firebox side) edges of the bypass opening, and what that eventually would do (percentage wise) to the efficiency of the combustor, I think it'd be safer to take the stove pipe off, (feel if there's draft up, or create one with e.g. a propane torch), spray in the pipe, then reassemble and burn.

But that's only my thinking - maybe too strict. Or maybe not. I don't know.

 

[Tron]

I think it'd be safer to take the stove pipe off, (feel if there's draft up, or create one with e.g. a propane torch), spray in the pipe, then reassemble and burn.

That would probably be best. Even without a fire there's probably enough draft to get it up the flue. Propane torch is a good idea.
I don't think spraying it into a horizontal section of the pipe would work, it needs to be dispersed to adhere to the flue walls.

 

[Highbeam]

I've used up several cats so have gotten the end of life accumulations in the flue. You might be surprised how much good a relatively hot fire can dry out that creosote and make it brushable. Worth a try and yes you can burn your wetter than ideal wood with a hotter fire. You don't really have a choice. The dead cat is sacrificial at this point.

With this now dead cat, I would be willing to use the creosote conversion products as advertised knowing that it will poison the already dead cat.

Yes, midwest hearth cats are made in the USA by the same people that make BK cats. Like all suppliers they advertise that theirs are the best. Unless you get a metal cat, I don't recommend that. Cats are super easy to swap out.

Once you get a fresh cat and dry wood I recommend keeping internal flue temperatures above 400 until the coaling stage. You want to guarantee 250 at the top of the stack so you need to anticipate some cooling as the gasses travel. My condar flue probe meter has 400 as the low end of the "normal" range with under 400 labeled as "too cool".

 

[spudman99]

To follow up on the above, the following is how I store my wood. Using free pallets I can get from HD or Lowes. Couple pressure treated 2x4s. One or 2 sheets of corrugated poly on the top. Probably less than $30 per bin. Mine are 6' x 4' x 5' or roughly 1 cord each. Have lasted 5 years so far. Not as pretty or permanent, but inexpensive and quick to assemble.

 

[BKVP]

Another question: If I can't end up warrantying my cat, what's the quality of the cats from midwest hearth? They're substantially less expensive

There is 100% certainty that warranty applies only to original owner. You'll need to purchase one for replacement.

BKVP