Box elder burns just fine. It’s the red headed step child of the maple family. As much as maple doesn’t want to claim it, funny leaves and colorful wood, it’s there every family get together.
I haven't, but have burned alder, soft maple, hemlock in the past. Of those, alder is probably the closest. Now that I am paying for my firewood, I don't touch it.I don’t know if you ever burned Boxelder but it’s a far cry from your Western Doug Fir.
Consider getting an inexpensive stove to learn on. This could be a used stove or a basic good new stove from Drolet. The first few years of burning will be a learning experience. Burning habits will be learned and refined. Eventually, you might refuse to burn box elder except during milder weather. Put the money saved into insulating those basement walls. That's really important. Otherwise about one out of 3 cords burned will go to heating the outdoors due to heat loss through the walls. The investment in insulation is also tax deductible. At this point it sounds like the best investment if the basment is to be used as a living space. Otherwise, put the stove where the heat is wanted, on the main floor.This would be disappointing. As much as I've been back and forth between the 2 stoves. I was really leaning towards the BK, in part because its $2000 cheaper after the rebate. But missing the rebate may not be a bad thing. Since my basement is currently unfinished, putting it off another year would give me time to complete my basement before I installed the stove. Which would eliminate some headaches trying to work around the stove. So to some extend, forgoing the rebate just buys me time. But its expensive time
So that's part of the reason I'm trying to find the best stove for my needs and not just looking for the cheapest option. I see it as a long term investment.
It’s probably not really required but more a result once you get used to consistent heat. You never want to be without and you accomplish that by a strict loading schedule. Where as the heat cycling of a tube stove is a fact. And even a schedule won’t change that.Its interesting that you said the BK required a more dedicated schedule.
i almost said this, but didn't want to be yelled at for doing something wrong 🤣 But i would say from a cold start i can walk away from my Ashford 20 in about 20 to 25 mins and it's set for 8 to 18 hours (depending where i put the dial). if it's on continuous usage (usually is) meaning it's all up to temp and has coals, i can reload, close bypass, char the load, set it to cruise, and walk away inside 10 mins no problem. Especially if the wood is good and dry. I find maple and pine and ash all work really well for this. Sometimes Oak or Hickory i have to break in the load a little bit longer. But definitely during my usual 12 hour load cycle i run for most of the season, my reloads are inside 10 mins.The "30 minutes" is when you have a cold start. Just load it while the cat is active and interface duration may be 5 minutes.
BKVP
Put the money saved into insulating those basement walls... The investment in insulation is also tax deductible.
I'm primarily looking for emergency backup heat and some supplemental heat in the coldest couple of months. Along with a nice fire to watch in the evening when its cold outside.
I'm primarily looking for emergency backup heat and some supplemental heat in the coldest couple of months. Along with a nice fire to watch in the evening when its cold outside.
So what happens to something like the T5 or T6 if it burns out overnight? If your just down to a bed of coals in the morning are you loosing ground? Will you get back drafts and cold air down the flue if your fire gets too cool overnight.
Isn’t this a basement install??It just gets cold but your furnace will kick on. Flues don't backdraft unless you have a problem. Would be the same for any stove.
I recommend you not consider the t5 at all. You need as big a stove as possible due to your huge area and the low BTU wood. Plus, life is just better with more room in the firebox.
SInce you mention spray foam and are seem like the kind of guy to have a well sealed home. You should be sure to feed your stove with an outside air connection. The BK has an excellent outside air connection with 100% of intake air coming through that connection. Not sure about the PE outside connection. The outside air connection greatly reduces the chances of backdrafting.
Will you have an ERV to maintain pressure in the home ?
Well, I'm not intentionally lying. LOLOoh, if that's honest and true and you have a really good/cheap central heating system then I would go with the PE. My BK is munching on a full load of maple right now keeping my house warm but there's no flames visible, it's just boringly effective at keeping the house warm day after day. Dogs are all sprawled out on the hearth basking.
Also, no rules against changing your mind in the future if you decide full time heating makes the upgrade to a cat stove a worthwhile trade.
The cat stoves are more complicated. You need to look at thermometers and flip levers at certain times or you could cause permanent stove damage. I have to teach a freaking class each time for my wife to run it. That same wife understands intuitively how to run a noncat with a single air control. For the primary, daily, operator it becomes second nature but honestly the cat stove is more complicated to run.
I have no idea how to delete that unrelated image below but hey, ND looks like a cheap place to live!
I am primarily looking for emergency backup heat and some supplemental heat in the coldest couple of months. But, the BK sounds so tempting to run all winter. But the reality is, I don't harvest that much boxelder and at $200 a cord for oak (mixed birch, poplar, ash, maple is cheaper), buying enough wood to run all winter could cost me more than my electric heating system does. So really, its probably best to consider it as a backup and supplemental for the coldest 2 months. As you pointed out with your wife, the simplicity of the cat is really appealing.My windows are all wood casement(crankout) 2 pane windows. So they are pretty good quality. My basement is 3 walls ICF and the 4th is a wood wall with walk out sliding patio door. Those vinyl sliding doors really don't seal that well. So I don't think my home is overly tight. But its not drafty either. Except for the room with the walk out which will hold the stove.SInce you mention spray foam and are seem like the kind of guy to have a well sealed home. You should be sure to feed your stove with an outside air connection. The BK has an excellent outside air connection with 100% of intake air coming through that connection. Not sure about the PE outside connection. The outside air connection greatly reduces the chances of backdrafting.
Will you have an ERV to maintain pressure in the home ?
Yes, basement install. I'm on the side of a hill and I have a walkout patio door in the room with the wood stove.Isn’t this a basement install??
Makes fresh air intake as it must stay at or below intake of stove.Yes, basement install. I'm on the side of a hill and I have a walkout patio door in the room with the wood stove.
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