Blower Fan and cold air intake for VC Resolute?

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Komrade

Member
Jan 3, 2014
26
Eastern Panhandle (WV)
Dear Forum,

I have a VC Resolute.. Been going strong for 8 years now (when it was new to me) with the help of this forum.

I have started some (long overdue) work around it (tile/stone) to build a hearth, and wanted to consider adding a fan and potentially outside air, since doing work anyway.

Is that practical with VC Resolute?

I looked, there are no outside air kits for this stove.... if you add something custom/generic on top of themostat/air control opening, you probably lose visibility in opening size.

For air distribution, I currently have a ceiling fan that I just put on max.. it's fairly close the the stove.. I thought instead of getting a specialty blower fan (that don't exist for this stove) to get some quality fan made out of metal instead and just put it behind the stove.

Neither issue is critical to me, and I realize this is an older stove that isn't easy to "upgrade", and I like it and don't want to replace it. However, are there any relatively simple upgrades I should consider while doing work around it?

IMG_20220208_101030_678_copy_1401x927.jpg
 
first thing that i would do is stop using it until you can get a fire proof type of floor underneath it. the set up you have needs to have a fire proof floor (for lack of a better word) and the cement board behind it has to be 1 inch away from the wall behind it. it needs a hearth and the manual for the stove should steer you in the right direction. i can't find my online manual. lost since the computer up grade but i think this site has one in the wiki it might be this https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/vermont-castings-older-stove-models/ that should steer you in the right direction
 
Looks great to me but I guess some will question your construction, tell you, you will burn your house down and insurance co will not cover you.

Those look to be individual stones? .... or a mosaic mat?
 
you got to look at it this way, if a fire starts while you are sleeping good luck. now if those stones are glued to the walls which look to be wood how wouldn't the heat go thru to the wood? i know with my defiant it is surrounded by brick. the brick gets hot enough with a good fire going so that i can't hold my hand on the bricks that are at the same level as the stove. and my stove is to the t installed via the directions.
 
but yes it does look great. and the walls have to have 1 inch air gap for cooling
 
Looks great to me but I guess some will question your construction, tell you, you will burn your house down and insurance co will not cover you.

Those look to be individual stones? .... or a mosaic mat?
I really don't understand why you think safety is a big joke. How hearths and surrounds are constructed make a huge difference.
 
There is cement board below tile and stone, there is no air gap.
Both bottom and top tile layer are about 1.5" thick.. no "glue"
There is over 18 inches from corners...
With heat shield that's a spec for this (Resolute) stove for "unprotected" walls, which is what I guess is considered w/o air gap, even with tile on.
Haven't put the shield back on yet.
We have minimum required of 18 inches on the front, although I wish we did a little better.
The pipe is double wall, and 14" away from one wall, and nearly 2ft from another.

What do you think I will miss on the safety once I put a heat shield back on?
 
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That looks better. The original shot was a bit scary. Now it's pretty close to being ok. The wall must be considered unshielded due to it not having the required 1" open spacing behind it. Adding the rear heat shield back onto the stove will reduce the corner clearance from 24" to 18" or 12" if the stove pipe is shielded (yours is with double-wall). So the clearances are ok with the stove heat shield on. The hearth floor protection is somewhat inadequate unless the stove also has the bottom heat shield. If that is added, then the hearth is fine. If not, then the manual requires a 24ga sheet metal surface for the hearth and 1/2" of mineral board (fiberfax).

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There is no fan kit or outside air kit for these stoves. For a fan just place a simple table fan on the floor blowing toward the back of the hearth. It can run at low speed and still be effective.
 
There is cement board below tile and stone, there is no air gap.
Both bottom and top tile layer are about 1.5" thick.. no "glue"
There is over 18 inches from corners...
With heat shield that's a spec for this (Resolute) stove for "unprotected" walls, which is what I guess is considered w/o air gap, even with tile on.
Haven't put the shield back on yet.
We have minimum required of 18 inches on the front, although I wish we did a little better.
The pipe is double wall, and 14" away from one wall, and nearly 2ft from another.

What do you think I will miss on the safety once I put a heat shield back on?
I've been doing lot of research and calling companies. I called durarock the stuff you used for the back they said that doesn't stop heat/very minimal and if the temperature get to 200 degrees it slowly starts to fail apart. The heat from the fire will go through the tile and durarock and heat up the 2x4 and over time can start a fire that's why you need to have that one in gap to help stop that thermal heat.
 
Hi, I am new here. I joined because I just got a Resolute III for free. It is great shape, it just needs the gaskets redone. I am asking here because this is the only current thread I could find about the resolute. Does anyone have or know where to get a manual for this stove? Thank you, John