Blown down mess. What would you guys do?

[ChadMc]

I looked at this for 30 mins straight today! Was motivated, but couldn’t figure out plan and ended up bucking a blow down beech instead. This is a huge white oak on top of 3 big poplars. The poplars I don’t really want. But the oak I do and i don’t even know where to start! I hate blow downs sometimes cause their a jungle to work around

 

[Gearhead660]

I always start by removing all the brush. Then the biggest stuff gets bucked up. Hard to see, anything in there that might be under tension?

 

[ChadMc]

Not the oak cause the top is suspended above everything. I almost thought of walking up it and taking the limbs off. That’s where all the good stuff is.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I looked at this for 30 mins straight today! Was motivated, but couldn’t figure out plan and ended up bucking a blow down beech instead. This is a huge white oak on top of 3 big poplars. The poplars I don’t really want. But the oak I do and i don’t even know where to start! I hate blow downs sometimes cause their a jungle to work around

View attachment 272657

Get in there, son.

Clear all the tops, and work from the top down. Keep the chain out of the dirt, and once you get to spots you are not sure about, get yourself a couple of the plastic wedges to keep the bar from binding. If you don't know what I mean, just ask.

Don't discriminate against the poplar. Think of it as tasty bread with your meal. Just mix a couple of pieces in with your denser wood loads, and it'll actually improve your burn. It dries in a year, and stretches out your burning time and versatility. And makes you a better person.

Most important, keep your body parts away from the chain, and the heavy pieces of wood as they roll and fall.

You can do it, just take your time, be deliberate, and stay safe.

 

[andym]

Get in there, son.

Clear all the tops, and work from the top down. Keep the chain out of the dirt, and once you get to spots you are not sure about, get yourself a couple of the plastic wedges to keep the bar from binding. If you don't know what I mean, just ask.

Don't discriminate against the poplar. Think of it as tasty bread with your meal. Just mix a couple of pieces in with your denser wood loads, and it'll actually improve your burn. It dries in a year, and stretches out your burning time and versatility. And makes you a better person.

Most important, keep your body parts away from the chain, and the heavy pieces of wood as they roll and fall.

You can do it, just take your time, be deliberate, and stay safe.

What he said. Plus a couple chains, straps, and a tractor if available!

 

[Montanalocal]

Almost all of my cutting is like this. I consider this easy cutting. Cut some here, cut some there, pretty soon its all rounds.

 

[Nealm66]

I looked at this for 30 mins straight today! Was motivated, but couldn’t figure out plan and ended up bucking a blow down beech instead. This is a huge white oak on top of 3 big poplars. The poplars I don’t really want. But the oak I do and i don’t even know where to start! I hate blow downs sometimes cause their a jungle to work around

View attachment 272657

Dang, that’s a mess. I would get the lower stuff cut up first so I didn’t bury it. Looks like there will be some pressure in a few spots. Think it through and be careful!

 

[gzecc]

Some trees stand back up after you remove the heaviest branches in blow downs.

 

[CincyBurner]

Study where the tension and compression wood along the downed tree is while realizing that situation may be fluid as you start working on tree.
If conditions allow I usually start from top.
I have a pole saw. If possible (not too high or limbs too large diameter) I'd try to print off ends. A pole saw affords you additional standoff distance. OR Consider using a come-along, or some type of ****/ cabe with ATV to pull out of crown of other trees.
It appears that trunk is resting on stumps of two other blow downs. That will affect tension/compression.
Watch logs don't roll on you. Stand on upslope side when you make your final cuts.
Take your time. Restudy if conditions change.

 

[Grizzerbear]

Cut the tops out first then clear the brush or stack it out of your way. Then work down from the top bucking the trunk up. I have two hickories exactly like this I'm about to cut next weekend. I actually prefer them to be suspended like that. Just watch for any limbs that are holding the trunk up. Use wedges like mentioned above also if needed.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

All I do is scrounge.. I get this all the time. Just start cutting the top, or cutting your way in and get working. Once you get going you'll figure it out. Id start at the canopy and work my way back, those branches look good so don't waste them. Id takes some of that popular also.. great shoulder season wood...

 

[PJ41]

Make sure of your footing, and always have an exit path in mind!

 

[peakbagger]

Lean how to make z cut, it can really help dealing with trees in tension and compression.

 

[Caw]

Now I'm curious for my own logging! What's a Z cut? I can't seem to find anything about it. Perhaps another name?

 

[Nealm66]

I’ve never heard of it either

 

[peakbagger]

A "Z" cut is designed for branches or logs in tension or compression to relieve the tension in a controlled manner. National Park Service chainsaw training I got about 10 years ago included it. The cuts do not need to be equal so if you are worried about binding on the first cut you can make the first cut short as it could bind but ideally you go near the centerline. When you are sawing up from the tension side the log will start deflecting down and eventually will break along the dotted line. its creates an internal hinge that directs where the compression in the log is relieved. Obviously it wastes firewood but when working blowdown safety is number one. It works in the opposite direction if the top of the log is in compression.

Its definitely one to practice before needing but the log or branch needs to be under tension.