Breckwell P24- will only run on "D"-analog board

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tammid65

Member
Sep 20, 2009
22
Central Connecticut
So...My Breckwell P24 -Analog control board- starts on "E" setting and auger light goes out after 15-20 minutes.
I could manually feed the pellets at that time...If I turn it down to the "D" setting it will stay running and the auger
light will stay on. I have bypassed all the thermodiscs to trouble shoot and have also checked the air switch...
Same problem. Have cleaned the stove too...Not sure what to try next...I am hoping all the "Vets" on here might
have an idea....Could it be the Conbustion blower overheating or something?
 
I think you found the problem. Yes, If the convection blower stops(please varify) it will loose vacuum and stop feeding pellets.

Keep us posted!
 
j-takeman said:
I think you found the problem. Yes, If the convection blower stops(please varify) it will loose vacuum and stop feeding pellets.

Keep us posted!

Combustion blower, you must be up before breakfast again ;-) .
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
j-takeman said:
I think you found the problem. Yes, If the convection blower stops(please varify) it will loose vacuum and stop feeding pellets.

Keep us posted!

Combustion blower, you must be up before breakfast again ;-) .

Yep, Posting on an empty tummy usually make one a dummy! :)

Combustion blower is what I meant! :sad:
 
Thanks Guys...Yes..it sounds like the Combustion blower is going out...the auger light will go out and then the combustion blower starts up again...So..could someone give me the quick and easy on how to replace this thing...it is a really a tight fit in there. Could I just replace the motor or do I have to do the whole housing that is attached to the back panel?
 
I think it has like 3 or 4 screws from what I could tell...hopefully that will be enough to hold the new one on...Urgh..this is going to be fun.
I just hate to sink more and more money into this if it ends up being the board...it is time for a new stove. We use this as our primary heat for a
2000 sq foot raised ranch....with Electric heat that we NEVER turn on. So...does everyone think it is the combustion blower? Is there a way to
test it to see if it is overheating or something? Because I do see it running at times.
 
To test the blower you can try this. But PLEASE be careful and always unplug the stove while testing and playing around with it!

Find an old lamp cord or extension cord.

Unplug the stove.

Disconnect the blower wires at the quick connects.

Find some quick connects that will let you connect the lamp cord to the blower. Strip the wires and crimp on the connectors.

Connect the lamp cord to the blower.

Plug the lamp cord in to house recepticle. You are only running the blower so leave the stove unplugged. Let the blower run for a good while. Because there is no heat coming from the stove it might take longer to get the shutdowns.

If the blower is at fault? You will hear it run for a while and then shut off.

Keep us posted!
 
You could leave a voltmeter connected to the motor's leads, and when the motor stops running, see if voltage is going to it. If the motor is getting voltage, but not running, it's the motor, or a wire or connector going to it. The motor may also be clogged with dust and hair so that it's not cooling itself. If it has an internal thermal safety, then that would kill the motor until it cools off.
You could also hot wire the motor and let it run for however long it normally takes to quit. If it never quits, the problem is elsewhere; if it quits, it's the motor, probably getting too hot, or a bearing seizing, etc.
Either way will prove out the motor, good or bad; which way to do it is up to you.

J - Looks like you beat me to it - took me too long to type my post!
 
If your venting is plugged the hot exhaust gases will not exit very well, eventually they will cause the thermal protection the combustion blower has to shut it down, when it cools it will restart.

The solution if this is the case is to clean the venting.
 
After taking another look at the combustion blower...looks like this will be a service call. The only way to replace it
is to replace the whole housing. So...the question is how much fixing could be done to this stove before we replace
the whole damn thing. I got to the point where it isn't even running on "d" or 'C" anymore. I did notice that the motor
is hot to touch..maybe it isn't sucking enough exhaust out...
 
tammid65 said:
After taking another look at the combustion blower...looks like this will be a service call. The only way to replace it
is to replace the whole housing. So...the question is how much fixing could be done to this stove before we replace
the whole damn thing. I got to the point where it isn't even running on "d" or 'C" anymore. I did notice that the motor
is hot to touch..maybe it isn't sucking enough exhaust out...

It sucks the air through the stove but blows the exhaust out the vent, sounds like your venting might be plugged.
 
If it takes oil there are usually two oil ports one on the shaft end and the other opposite it where the shaft would be if it continued through the motor.

These are sometimes capped and some times open. There should be oiling information on the motor's manufacturer's plate. There should also be information about oiling requirements in the manual for the stove.

Some motors can be oiled and some can't.

ETA: It is 10:42 here so I'm out of here for this evening.
 
ok...Guys...stove would not stay lit last night..mighty freaking cold at 50 degrees when we got up... Oiled the Combustion fan
this morning..it had been making a screeching sound..quieted it down. There is no easy way to get into the housing to clean the combustion fan. It almost sounds like the Fan changes speed which causes the auger to go off. Is something tripping it to cause it to change speed? The fan is still running... What other "stupid" problem could it be...I thought we cleaned it good enough...the vent going out was cleaned out. I am at my wit's end. I really need to know if there are any Pellet repair people in the Waterbury CT area to come and help me out of this situation. The stove will no longer stay lit on D...now only "C"...which isn't going to heat the whole house.
 
OK, Guys. Tomorrow I will be taking apart the stove to totally clean again..
One of the clips on the ash pan door broke the last time we cleaned the ash pan...I am wondering if that
is causing the problem with the pressure..the last time the stove went off on "D" I kicked the ash pan door
and I was able to get the auger light back on. I am hoping it is something that stupid...Thanks for all your
help guys and I will repost if/when we figure this thing out.
 
Bingo we likely have a winner, that's as good a way to have vacuum switches shut off the stove as any.
 
Yahoo!!!...looks like a $5.00 cam latch was the problem...a little duct tape until the part comes in and the
stove is running like new...HOT!!! Thank you guys for all your help...Saved me some big $$$
 
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