Btu loss in spalted wood?

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bigealta

Minister of Fire
May 22, 2010
1,823
Utah & NJ
I have access to a lot of wood that’s been dropped in long piles by a tree guy years ago. Much of it is partially spalted. It’s mostly maples and some oaks. Does anyone know how much less btu’s generally are lost when it becomes spalted.?

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You mean it is partly rotten?
 
Well not quite rotten but spalted which to me is somewhere between solid and rotten.
If you can pull it apart with your hands at room temperature it's not worth the effort. Spalting to most people is what happens when black lines are left in the growth rings from fungal infections, usually in maple or ash, but sometimes oak as well. The same thing can happen in other species and with different colors, but usually that isn't referred to as spalting. For the wood you are asking about people usually say "punky" rather than spalted. I've noticed the heartwood can be spongey and punky at the flared trunk section of most dead trees I cut down or find blown down. If it's still solid, but has the weird texture I'll burn it in my stoves.
 
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So the oak has a ring of more spongy starting to rot sections on the exterior but solid inside, that Rot area is not too soft yet. The maple is Spalted through the whole logs, it splits fine and the splits stay solid. (they don't break like punky or partially rotten wood does). It is much lighter than if it was not spalted, and way lighter than fresh cut. I know it will still burn fine and faster than if solid, but just trying to decide whether it's worth the drive to get it and the space to stack it. It's good for shoulder season for sure but with my limited room for stacks, i'de prefer solid oak, but beggars can't be choosers and i've been pounding thru my good oak this year. Year 2 stacks looking too light and Year 3 stacks saying "Where's the Beef".
 
If storage is limited go after the oak. The solid core is still good fuel. I have had maple in the state you are reporting and find it to be okay at best. It produces lots of ash. It will produce heat for a short burst and then roll over and die.
 
So i'm thinking to take enough to "protect" my oak, for at least this year. Should be ok to burn this spring and next fall.
 
Super light spalted wood is definitely less BTU. I think the fungus breaks down the lignin, which is a big part of the energy density of the wood. If the infection has not been in the tree very long often times the density/BTU difference is negligible.
 
Here is some spalted oak. 2nd picture.

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Yes Spacebus, I’m going by weight, if it’s to light like balsa wood I’ll leave it. This load I took and much of it is solid with some spalting on the sides. The good part is it will season quickly.
 
ive been burnin a good bit of spaltef red maple so far i havent really.noticed much of btu difference wise to be honest .... then again im not exactly payin attention to it 2 i have noticed that they do seem to burn up a little quicker though
 
I usually go by whether it splits normally or not.
Yeah if the split breaks off, like 1/2 way down the log, it does not come home. If it's strong enough to stay intact as a full split then it has to have some weight and also not be soft or punky. So far most of this load is ok, but if left for another year, pretty sure it will all be too far gone.