Cast iron pipe for chimney?

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Prb

New Member
Nov 30, 2018
4
Atlanta
I have a friend that used a thick cast iron sewer type pipe or the right diameter for his stove. Is there any reason this is dangerous.

seems like having a seamless thick iron pipe would be a lot more safe than a bunch of twist together pipes.

He does have a metal building so it's not close to any combustible framing. But I suppose, for a wood building, you could weld some angle iron braces directly on the pipe - seems safer than just putting strap bands on the class a chimney to hold it in place
 
I have a friend that used a thick cast iron sewer type pipe or the right diameter for his stove. Is there any reason this is dangerous.

seems like having a seamless thick iron pipe would be a lot more safe than a bunch of twist together pipes.

He does have a metal building so it's not close to any combustible framing. But I suppose, for a wood building, you could weld some angle iron braces directly on the pipe - seems safer than just putting strap bands on the class a chimney to hold it in place
No insulation at all on the chimney means low temperatures. That means high potential for creosote buildup. Which means high potential for chimney fire.
 
Recipe for huge amount of creosote as mentioned above. Had a neighbor use this and it lasted about two months of burning before he had problems. Think he got the pipe for free is the only reason he installed it. His creosote probably plugged top of pipe. Was too tall (about 25' off the ground) to access so he gave up on it. So no don't use it. Kevin
 
That makes sense. My friend got it for free too and he just tends to do things his own way like that, I don't think he cares if there is a chimney fire, lol - I certainly do.

I just started to think about it when checking out my class a chimney I put in last year. Which suprisingly had no notable creosote build up, other than the metal not being shiny anymore. It just seems kind of flimsy, at least without screws, especially at the thimble where you can't put screws. I did put the roof braces on it for this season, which does seem to make it more solid.

Still worry I'll come home one day to see the pipes separated somehow and maybe worse. Was thinking having one solid piece might not be a bad thing?
 
Twist lock works fine. There's nothing flimsy about a properly installed class A chimney system. Insulation is good, very good.
 
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That makes sense. My friend got it for free too and he just tends to do things his own way like that, I don't think he cares if there is a chimney fire, lol - I certainly do.

I just started to think about it when checking out my class a chimney I put in last year. Which suprisingly had no notable creosote build up, other than the metal not being shiny anymore. It just seems kind of flimsy, at least without screws, especially at the thimble where you can't put screws. I did put the roof braces on it for this season, which does seem to make it more solid.

Still worry I'll come home one day to see the pipes separated somehow and maybe worse. Was thinking having one solid piece might not be a bad thing?
The high quality class a systems are really sturdy. What system did you use? Did you use support brackets as often as you are supposed to?
 
My sections that hang down in the cathedral are surprisingly stiff. They just do not flex at all once twisted together and locking band affixed. This stuff is highly engineered and tested and world proven. Just install per instructions and put your trust in it.
 
Thanks for the answers. Still getting used to using forums, I read them often, but really haven't ever tried to figure out posting till now.

I used duravent triple wall stainless.

The pipes got banged up a little in shipping; I even got one a northern tool in store and was still pretty dinged up.

One pipe seemed like you could keep twisting it around instead of stopping in the right position. On the other hand trying to pull them apart not on purpose is pretty difficult. So I probably worry to much. I do HVAC work and I guess I am just used to put several screws In each joint and not being able to put screws in the thimble part bothered me.

Now that I put roof braces on it seems much much sturdier, where I could move the pipe around before.
 
I noticed that Duravent will twist around without a positive stop if you turn it hard enough. Supervent will not.
 
Put some 1/2” SS screws in the joints if you’re worried about it.