chimney upgrade to1920's (Sears like) bungalow in DC

[pjw3]

Not drawing well, smokes house, wife threatens to spend thousands despite the fact that we make under 10 fires a year over the holidays / during the short DC winters.

Approx. 28 X 28X 24(d) fireplace with damper set toward rear, older but decent clay lined chimney with stepped smoke chamber. I believe that it is a Rumford. I have always thought that the damper is set too far back and generally the problem, so the question is, what step(s) to take first in this low use situation?

This Old House video

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seems really comprehensive and not that expensive if I am willing to take the time and do the work. It appears to create one sealed smoke pathway from the top of the firebox to the great outdoors, but I would need to remove the existing damper and webfish says "It is my opinion that a decent damper at the fireplace level is best". Once I cut it out, its gone for good.

1. Should I, Take out (cut the frame) the damper and install a rooftop damper first and see how that works?
2. Same as above but install a liner and create a masonry roof to the firebox going around the smoke shelf?
3. Same as above but remove the smoke shelf. I am not sure how necessary that is. I assume that a straight liner would be better than curved to go around the shelf.
4. Other?

Thank you very, very much and Happy Holidays!

 

[bholler]

Not drawing well, smokes house, wife threatens to spend thousands despite the fact that we make under 10 fires a year over the holidays / during the short DC winters.

Approx. 28 X 28X 24(d) fireplace with damper set toward rear, older but decent clay lined chimney with stepped smoke chamber. I believe that it is a Rumford. I have always thought that the damper is set too far back and generally the problem, so the question is, what step(s) to take first in this low use situation?

This Old House video

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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

seems really comprehensive and not that expensive if I am willing to take the time and do the work. It appears to create one sealed smoke pathway from the top of the firebox to the great outdoors, but I would need to remove the existing damper and webfish says "It is my opinion that a decent damper at the fireplace level is best". Once I cut it out, its gone for good.

1. Should I, Take out (cut the frame) the damper and install a rooftop damper first and see how that works?
2. Same as above but install a liner and create a masonry roof to the firebox going around the smoke shelf?
3. Same as above but remove the smoke shelf. I am not sure how necessary that is. I assume that a straight liner would be better than curved to go around the shelf.
4. Other?

Thank you very, very much and Happy Holidays!

Some detailed pictures and measurements would help

 

[pjw3]

Some detailed pictures and measurements would help

Will do, thank you. Not at home this week so it may take a bit. What I do have is that the opening is 28h X 30w and I believe that it was about 20 deep.

 

[pjw3]

30 W
28 H
24 D

 

[pjw3]

Some detailed pictures and measurements would help

Basic pictures and dimensions below.
It was always necessary to build the fire toward the back in order to not have smoke spill out the front. It always appeared that the damper being so far back, along with the design of the damper plate having a shelf effect made it problematic.
There used to be a clean out which was buried behind drywall when the basement was finished. I'm tempted to open that back up and try cracking it as an air supply to see if that helps.
The smoke chamber is stepped.
The clay liner has been inspected by 2 companies and its fairly decent.
My inclination is to remove the damper mechanism, rebuild the chimney cap and install rooftop damper as a first step.
It is hard to justify spending a bunch of money just to have 8 - 10 fires a year but it has gotten fairly unusable because has gotten more likely that it will smoke at least 2 or 3 times a season.
Thank you

 

[bholler]

Basic pictures and dimensions below.
It was always necessary to build the fire toward the back in order to not have smoke spill out the front. It always appeared that the damper being so far back, along with the design of the damper plate having a shelf effect made it problematic.
There used to be a clean out which was buried behind drywall when the basement was finished. I'm tempted to open that back up and try cracking it as an air supply to see if that helps.
The smoke chamber is stepped.
The clay liner has been inspected by 2 companies and its fairly decent.
My inclination is to remove the damper mechanism, rebuild the chimney cap and install rooftop damper as a first step.
It is hard to justify spending a bunch of money just to have 8 - 10 fires a year but it has gotten fairly unusable because has gotten more likely that it will smoke at least 2 or 3 times a season.
Thank you

Honestly I wouldn't waste the time and money on a top sealer. The fireplace is very poorly designed with the deep lintel that barely sits above the front face. I would recommend trying a smoke shield before anything else to extend that face down.

 

[pjw3]

Honestly I wouldn't waste the time and money on a top sealer. The fireplace is very poorly designed with the deep lintel that barely sits above the front face. I would recommend trying a smoke shield before anything else to extend that face down.

Thank you. Makes sense.

 

[begreen]

30 W
28 H
24 D

View attachment 304870 View attachment 304871

An insert with a 6" insulated liner looks like a better cure for what ails this fireplace. Would that be an option? If so, what's the width in the rear?