Chinook 30 install

[BrotherBart]

Air sucked into the pipe is gonna be cool air and it will crap up a foot or two of that pipe just off the top of the stove into glaze creosote in a heartbeat. Don't ask how I know. On single wall I seal it at the connector with rope gasket and a hose clamp since that stove is in the basement and looks ain't an issue. Stove gasket is fiberglass and will rock up until around 1,400 degrees.It gets that hot you have more problems on your hands than that at the moment.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

That's BS. Price should be ashamed of that answer, Selkirk should be ashamed of that answer, I would return that crap and buy a better product before half a$$ing the installation as Price advised.

That was my first thought too. But I'm still thinking about the physics of this situation and I'm not ready to conclude that yet. This install is at our ski cabin and I'm no longer there but I think I need to inspect the components more carefully before I come to any final conclusions.

That, and I'd still like to hear what BKVP's thoughts are on this.

 

[kennyp2339]

@BKVP

 

[BKVP]

Sorry folks in meetings this week with EPA. Will respond this evening or morning during flight. I need to read all this to have full details.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

Sorry folks in meetings this week with EPA. Will respond this evening or morning during flight. I need to read all this to have full details.

The EPA still exists?

 

[BKVP]

Break time. Yes, EPA still going strong.

On my stove at home, my double wall fits as you described in option 1. It does not have an adapter, it fits tight, does not rest on stove top and a loose fit, makes no sense.

Did the pipe mfg suggest the pipe must rest on stove for safety purposes or performance purposes? If it's performance, go without adapter. If it's safety, address further.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

Break time. Yes, EPA still going strong.

On my stove at home, my double wall fits as you described in option 1. It does not have an adapter, it fits tight, does not rest on stove top and a loose fit, makes no sense.

Did the pipe mfg suggest the pipe must rest on stove for safety purposes or performance purposes? If it's performance, go without adapter. If it's safety, address further.

Price said the requirement is for physical support of the outer wall (which I think would be considered safety). He said I could meet that requirement by using a support riser fabricated from plate steel resting on the stove top (around the flue collar). But that this was totally unnecessary and the large gap between the inner wall of the stove adapter and stove collar was not a problem. Just to be clear, he approved fitting a stove pipe section without the adapter as long as the outer wall was supported (or simply using the adapter as is).

From a performance standpoint, interestingly enough, the outer wall at the top of the stove pipe run is allowed to be open to the room or closed off.

 

[BKVP]

Price said the requirement is for physical support of the outer wall (which I think would be considered safety). He said I could meet that requirement by using a support riser fabricated from plate steel resting on the stove top (around the flue collar). But that this was totally unnecessary and the large gap between the inner wall of the stove adapter and stove collar was not a problem. Just to be clear, he approved fitting a stove pipe section without the adapter as long as the outer wall was supported (or simply using the adapter as is).

From a performance standpoint, interestingly enough, the outer wall at the top of the stove pipe run is allowed to be open to the room or closed off.

My double wall is DuraVent. It has been installed 20 years and never had an issue. The outter pipe is about 1.5" above stove top.

My ceiling support box supports the black pipe, not my stove. When I sweep, I raise the slip joint and the pipe just hangs there.

Hope this helps.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

My double wall is DuraVent. It has been installed 20 years and never had an issue. The outter pipe is about 1.5" above stove top.

My ceiling support box supports the black pipe, not my stove. When I sweep, I raise the slip joint and the pipe just hangs there.

Hope this helps.

Yes, it does seem like that wouldn't be a problem.

I assume the DuraVent pipe sections have air vents top and bottom? I can only find photos of the top of the pipe and can see it has vents there, just wondering about the bottom. I read the DuraVent installation instructions and they don't mention anything about leaving the top/bottom vents open to the room or not. Depending upon the particular stove collar and chimney adapter it could go either way?

This would seem to imply they did the clearance testing with the vents blocked?

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

I found the solution to the loose fitting stove collar adapter.

I was able to disassemble the inner and outer walls of the stove adapter. Then I put the inner pipe into the stoves flue collar and noticed it fit nice and tight and sealed well but only if it dropped down about an inch deeper than the outer pipe would allow when the stove collar adapter was assembled. This is because the inner pipe is tapered in two steps. After some careful measuring, I used a thin fiber cutting disc on my angle grinder to cut close to an inch off the outer pipe and then shortened the inner pipe so it wouldn't extend below the stove top. After assembling the two components the inner pipe becomes a snug fit right as the outer pipe rests on the stovepipe.

While I'm happy with the final result and think it will perform well, it was a time-consuming install and I can't recommend this Selkirk double wall pipe for a number of reasons:

1) Screws were not secured in the packaging and the pipe ends were dinged up during shipping when the screws ended up wedged under the pipe ends. This took a lot of careful bending to repair. Why Selkirk doesn't make sure they are well taped in an out of the way location is a mystery.

2) The 6 foot extendable section has a huge difference in diameters between the sliding sections. so there is a large gap visible. A covering band is provided but the gap is large enough that it will be tricky to get a nice appearance. Other extendable pipe I've used was a snug fit so it would stay put when slid up. I needed to tape it up to prevent it from sliding out.

3) Low quality control of the seaming/forming. I spent a lot of time bending/tweaking to get a good fit between sections. The perforated ring that spaces the inner/outer sections did not have a consistent fit between the inner/outer walls. Some pipe sections were tight to this spacer, others loose.

4) One of the sections was not painted all the way to the end. This has left a 1/4" exposed metal (silver stripe) over 6" long that will need to be touched up with black paint.

5) Oddly designed (loose fitting) stove collar adapter as described in this thread. It's almost as if it were designed to fit any stove collar but only if cut to fit. But they were afraid to admit this so they just said it would work fine as is.

Now I need some cooler weather!

 

[Highbeam]

Getting that joint to fit tightly will be worth the effort. It shouldn't be that hard but you made it work. Draft strength is a source of many/most of the operating problems with BK stoves so getting the flue sealed up will be worth your time.