Deere ZTrak PTO's

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Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
19,982
Philadelphia
My Deere 757 ZTrak just ate it's fourth or fifth PTO clutch. Always the same issue, the solenoid burns out after maybe 100 hours of use. Anyone experiencing a similar issue with Deere PTO's?

Deere only sells the complete clutch assembly with solenoid, so it's several hundred dollars each time one goes. I might have gone thru $2000 in these stupid things, just mowing my own lawn, in the last 5 or 6 years.

On a possibly related note, I just started having an ignition issue with the same mower. I say "possibly" related, because the issue seems to be isolated to the seat switch delay module, and just started two weeks ago. I've been burning up clutches on this thing for a half dozen years, so I'm not counting on there being any link between these two issues, other than bad timing.
 
How often do you engage/disengage while you mow? I know some people that shut off, pull on to driveway, turn around, turn deck back on...each time around! Recipe for clutch and belt problems! And I'm not a fan of full throttle deck engagement, unless the MFG specifically states to do so...half throttle works for me otherwise.
Only other thing I can think of would be to make sure the voltage and ground to the clutch are good.
 
Good questions. But I only engage it once per mowing, unless I need to stop to pick up a branch or something, and always at half throttle when I engage.

Just pulled the rear shroud off the mower and confirmed it's definitely the solenoid... again. Good (unloaded) voltage to the PTO, I will be checking it under load after I get this thing replaced.

Looking for a rebuild kit now, but I remember checking last time, and coming up nil.
 
No rebuilds found in a quick search. Deere just raised their price over $400 on this clutch, and I'm averaging less than two years per unit. Going aftermarket at $229, folks on Amazon seem to like it.
 
When you say solenoid...is it just a heavy duty relay, or a solenoid that physically moves a part? Like a starter solenoid that engages the bendix.
If it is a relay, I think I would go aftermarket too, and also bigger/more heavy duty...
 
What model do you have specifically? I see lots of $150 clutches listed for Ztraks...
 
This is the 757 ZTrak with 60” deck and 25 hp Kawi. Clutch number is TCA15800 (from memory, that’s how many I’ve bought...). Lowest price I saw last night on OEM clutch was $403, but I picked up an aftermarket one for $229, that is supposedly better than OEM. We will see.

The failing solenoid is the actuator inside the clutch assembly, the relay that powers it seems to be fine.
 
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Good (unloaded) voltage to the PTO
Loaded voltage (and ground) would mean more...but I'm sure you are already aware of that...
 
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putting a meter on it? 13.4 - 14volts?
Perhaps there's a broken ground some where else on the mower, could be a frayed wire or bad connection
 
putting a meter on it? 13.4 - 14volts?
Perhaps there's a broken ground some where else on the mower, could be a frayed wire or bad connection

Perhaps. Will definitely rig a meter to it on next run date.
 
Could also be a short in the solenoid that develops due to excessive vibration, check your switch to see if any melting has occurred, also after use check with your hand to feel if there's any excessive heat every once in awhile.
 
That brings up an idea...if you have an infrared thermometer, point it at the clutch when you're done mowing, see what it says...not sure what is normal, but maybe the dealer would have that info...or we could all check ours and compare...
 
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Check to see what the mower is charging. If it's over charge it could be frying your clutch. If voltage is too low, it could cause the clutch not to engage right and cause it to slip a little. That would cause it to over heat and possibly burn the windings. Also make you you have a good ground and make sure the clutch connector is tight and clean. As far as you ignition, I bet it is a coil going bad or fuel shut off solenoid on the carburetor. I have worked on several 757's and have done coils on all of them. The heat takes a toll on them over time.
 
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Check to see what the mower is charging. If it's over charge it could be frying your clutch.
Yeah, this is what I’m counting on. I suspect I either have a bad voltage regulator, or my flaky seat module was causing the clutch voltage to constantly drop in and out. New seat module on order already, it gave up the ghost last week, and clutch just came in last night. Stay tuned to this channel...
 
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Yeah, this is what I’m counting on. I suspect I either have a bad voltage regulator, or my flaky seat module was causing the clutch voltage to constantly drop in and out. New seat module on order already, it gave up the ghost last week, and clutch just came in last night. Stay tuned to this channel...
Usually your seat switches can be bypassed. Some you can unkook or put a jumper wire in. Depends if the switch is normally open or normally closed. Also most seat switches are run through ground. They dont have any power going through them.
 
Usually your seat switches can be bypassed. Some you can unkook or put a jumper wire in. Depends if the switch is normally open or normally closed. Also most seat switches are run through ground. They dont have any power going through them.
Yeah, this one is able to run if I unplug both the seat delay module and the magneto kill relay. Useful for troubleshooting, but I wouldn't want to run that way permanently. I can tell you a real funny (but painful) story of a good buddy who disabled his zero-turn seat safety switch.
 
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