Delta Bandsaw
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
lol... cute! I thought we were talking about real motors! 
You can pick up "Frame 56" single-phase motors up to 2 hp for under $200, brand new. No problem. Swap it out!
When you started talking vintage wood/metal bandsaws with 3-phase motors, my mind was on the type of machines I used to collect:
There was a time when my smallest saw was a 32" Crescent from the 1910's, but that was a long time ago.
You can pick up "Frame 56" single-phase motors up to 2 hp for under $200, brand new. No problem. Swap it out!
When you started talking vintage wood/metal bandsaws with 3-phase motors, my mind was on the type of machines I used to collect:
There was a time when my smallest saw was a 32" Crescent from the 1910's, but that was a long time ago.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I've really scaled back. My only two bandsaws today are a JET 18" POS and the 32" Crescent, which isn't even hooked up in my new shop yet. With kids, work, life, it may be sitting on a pallet until I retire! Playing with big old woodworking machines is a bachelor's game, given the time they require to do right.
Great now I know I have a price reasonable power option. Next question... Where to buy blades from and what blades should I be buying?
What do you want to cut? How thick of material? Choose width and tooth profile by the job.
www.detroitbandsaw.com
How to Determine Bandsaw Blade Length | Detroit Band Saw
Follow this step by step guide to learn how to determine bandsaw blade length. You need a tape measure, pen, and floor space. Just follow these 5 steps.
www.detroitbandsaw.com
Ashful
Minister of Fire
4 options:
1. Buy a blade welder, and weld your own.
2. Learn to silver solder, and solder your own.
3. Buy pre-made, which is likely available for any machine as common as Delta
4. Have them made, any length/combo you want.
Options 1 and 2 are really only practical if you're using enough of the same blade stock to buy and stock spools. I've never been in that situation, as I tend to always want just 2 loops of each tooth configuration and blade width. Option 3 is going to limit your choices to what you can find / what Delta markets, but with a brand like Delta, maybe there's good options out there.
I've always used option 4. You can find several suppliers online who will weld a blade to your preferred length, so you can choose from the tooth shape, TPI, and widths they have in stock. I bought a crap ton of bandsaw loops over the course of about 10 years (2002 - 2012), and haven't needed to replenish since then, so I don't know all the suppliers out there today. I'd have to pull old receipts, but I think most of mine came from Southern Tool, and they seem to do a good job with both alignment and annealing, as I've never had a weld break and even the 1.5" wide blades track true.
For wood, ideal cutting is when you have 3 teeth in the kerf, and you'll probably want hook tooth config if you're cutting real thick stuff (eg. re-sawing over 6"). For thinner stuff, use higher TPI and not as much hook is needed. Wider blades run straighter, easier to make straight rips, but do require a lot more horsepower to spin (due to flex resistance).
Since pretty much every store-bought bandsaw on earth is grossly underpowered, I'd use this chance of swapping the motor to jump up to a real motor, at LEAST 1.5 horsepower, so you won't be frustrated doing thick cuts or running the widest blades that frame can carry. The only question I'd have there is how they're handling motor protection. I'd guess most small saws like that have the motor protection built into the motor, as having a dual-voltage motor would mean you'd have to manually re-arrange heaters in any external motor starter / protection circuit. Is there a red "reset" button on your motor?
Oh, one last thing. The reason most who weld or solder their own argue for those methods is that you can make cuts not possible with pre-welded blades, such as passing a blade thru a hole in your work without an entry cut. In other words, drill hole, thread blade thru it, weld, cut. I've got a lot of hours on bandsaws, and I've come across very few situations where this would be useful, or worth the time to do it. That's why they make scroll saws, anyway.
1. Buy a blade welder, and weld your own.
2. Learn to silver solder, and solder your own.
3. Buy pre-made, which is likely available for any machine as common as Delta
4. Have them made, any length/combo you want.
Options 1 and 2 are really only practical if you're using enough of the same blade stock to buy and stock spools. I've never been in that situation, as I tend to always want just 2 loops of each tooth configuration and blade width. Option 3 is going to limit your choices to what you can find / what Delta markets, but with a brand like Delta, maybe there's good options out there.
I've always used option 4. You can find several suppliers online who will weld a blade to your preferred length, so you can choose from the tooth shape, TPI, and widths they have in stock. I bought a crap ton of bandsaw loops over the course of about 10 years (2002 - 2012), and haven't needed to replenish since then, so I don't know all the suppliers out there today. I'd have to pull old receipts, but I think most of mine came from Southern Tool, and they seem to do a good job with both alignment and annealing, as I've never had a weld break and even the 1.5" wide blades track true.
For wood, ideal cutting is when you have 3 teeth in the kerf, and you'll probably want hook tooth config if you're cutting real thick stuff (eg. re-sawing over 6"). For thinner stuff, use higher TPI and not as much hook is needed. Wider blades run straighter, easier to make straight rips, but do require a lot more horsepower to spin (due to flex resistance).
Since pretty much every store-bought bandsaw on earth is grossly underpowered, I'd use this chance of swapping the motor to jump up to a real motor, at LEAST 1.5 horsepower, so you won't be frustrated doing thick cuts or running the widest blades that frame can carry. The only question I'd have there is how they're handling motor protection. I'd guess most small saws like that have the motor protection built into the motor, as having a dual-voltage motor would mean you'd have to manually re-arrange heaters in any external motor starter / protection circuit. Is there a red "reset" button on your motor?
Oh, one last thing. The reason most who weld or solder their own argue for those methods is that you can make cuts not possible with pre-welded blades, such as passing a blade thru a hole in your work without an entry cut. In other words, drill hole, thread blade thru it, weld, cut. I've got a lot of hours on bandsaws, and I've come across very few situations where this would be useful, or worth the time to do it. That's why they make scroll saws, anyway.
If the saw can handle the 1.5, that's what I will do then. I've gotten busy so it's sitting on a back burner at the moment, but I will update as I make progress. Thanks everyone.
Check the amp draw for 1.5hp.
The potential problem with doubling the power of the motor is it might allow you to find the next weakest link on your saw if you put it through something that really pushes the saw. That motor won't slow down. Depending on what that link is, you might not want to be standing beside it.
The potential problem with doubling the power of the motor is it might allow you to find the next weakest link on your saw if you put it through something that really pushes the saw. That motor won't slow down. Depending on what that link is, you might not want to be standing beside it.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
A 1.5" blade uses a lot of horsepower to flex. It's a great blade to have in the arsenal, if your saw can sling one, but it's not going to be your everyday multipurpose blade. Here's the combo I'd buy, if just starting out:
(2) max width your saw can handle @ 3 TPI hook tooth (for resawing and ripping beams only)
(2) 3/4" @ 4 TPI standard tooth (good for cutting 3/4" to 1-1/2" thick materials)
(2) 1/2" @ 6 TPI standard tooth (good for cutting curves in material down to 1/2" thick)
(1) 1/2" serrated knife (good for cutting foam, etc.)
(1) 1/4 @ 10-12 TPI standard tooth (scrollwork in 1/4" to 1/2" materials)
Other than resawing and ripping thick stuff, most of your daily work will be with the 1/2" and 3/4" blades. The 1", 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" with 3TPI hook tooth is absolutely necessary for resawing or ripping thick stock, but won't be used for anything else.
Rule of thumb, you want 3 - 6 teeth in the material, never less or more. On thick stuff, you're stuck going more (eg. 3 TPI @ 6" thick = 18 teeth!), which requires a lot of horsepower. But since 1 TPI isn't practical or widely available, you deal with 3 TPI and go to a hook tooth for better self-feeding on 18 teeth buried.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Worth pointing out that you NEVER want to be standing inline with the wheels of a bandsaw. When a blade weld fails, they can eject 10 feet of blade right at you, sometimes as fast as 56 mph (5000 fpm). If you're standing in front of the saw, proper operator position, you will not get hit.
Anyone have a suggestion for a place to get a motor? Will any standard single phase electric motor work (as long as it meets specs)? Harbor Freight has an option but I can also find plenty of options on amazon.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I have always found them second-hand, Craigslist or industrial auctions, so no great advice on where to buy one at a good price. Maybe Surplus Center?
Bandsaws have a very high starting torque requirement, so a lot of guys like to run RI (repulsion-induction) type motors on them. These motors have a brush assembly like a universal motor, but which lifts off above a certain RPM. That said, most cheap modern bandsaws seem to just use capacitor start induction motors, and they work okay as long as you're not sawing real thick stuff.
Bandsaws have a very high starting torque requirement, so a lot of guys like to run RI (repulsion-induction) type motors on them. These motors have a brush assembly like a universal motor, but which lifts off above a certain RPM. That said, most cheap modern bandsaws seem to just use capacitor start induction motors, and they work okay as long as you're not sawing real thick stuff.
I have access to a Baldor single phase motor. It's 1 hp, and everything else lines up. However, it is 3450 rpms and the original 3 phase motor is only 1725. Is doubling the rpms a no go? I understand I have different pulley adjustments I can make, but really don't want to mess with the charting it already has.
Unless you replace the pulley(s) it'll double blade speed, which is probably not what you want unless you're cutting different material than the manufacturer had in mind.
You can get 120v input VFDs that output 220v 3phase However the nameplate says your motor is 200v so I don't know how running a 220v output VFD will go with it. Maybe the output voltage is adjustable.
You can get 120v input VFDs that output 220v 3phase However the nameplate says your motor is 200v so I don't know how running a 220v output VFD will go with it. Maybe the output voltage is adjustable.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
As long as you can find a pully combination that gives you the desired blade speed, I would go with whatever motor you can find. But what size is this saw? I don't remember, and didn't see it scrolling back. 1 hp would be good for a 14" saw, but not much more than that, I'd think.
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