Does this install look acceptable?

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Firenutz

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 13, 2008
106
Northeastern PA
This was my first time doing a project like this. I had the stove running last night for a while and it seemed to be working great. It's a 45 off the back of the stove (Mt. Vernon), 2' through the wall thimble, 10' up from the cleanout T. There's about 4' above the roof and it extends higher than the peak. I'm hoping I installed it within code. I noticed sparks once every minute or so coming out of the cap but they never made it to the roof without fizzling out.
 

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That should be fine, as far as I know pellet stoves are all approved for direct venting through a wall with termination as close as 6 inches past the wall. Your method is preferred and should offer excellent draft in the event of power loss.
Mike -
 
I think the only thing you need to check is if it is 3 inches from railing. I think that as long at it runs up through the roof you do not have to worry about being 4 ft. from window and door.
 
eschills said:
I think the only thing you need to check is if it is 3 inches from railing. I think that as long at it runs up through the roof you do not have to worry about being 4 ft. from window and door.
The railing was one of my worries but I went by the pipe manufacturer's clearance of 1" to combustibles. Right now it's about 2" from the rungs of the railing. I could always move the rungs into the frame to get them away from the pipe. I may just do that so it eliminates concern for future inspectors.
 
Looks good to me

You CAN NOT direct vent there anyway because to close to a window and wall.
BUT I NEVER DIRECT VENT.

the pipe did not have to be that tall but taller in not always a bad thing.
 
CZARCAR said:
hearthtools said:
Looks good to me

You CAN NOT direct vent there anyway because to close to a window and wall.
BUT I NEVER DIRECT VENT.

the pipe did not have to be that tall but taller in not always a bad thing.
maybe not. i've read that after a certain rise the flue diameter has to be increased as per manual.

From the photo it looks like he is using 4" pipe. so he cant go any bigger.
 
hearthtools said:
Looks good to me

You CAN NOT direct vent there anyway because to close to a window and wall.
BUT I NEVER DIRECT VENT.

the pipe did not have to be that tall but taller in not always a bad thing.

my installer direct vented mine, and it is about the same distance from the window as this one.
 
Yes, it may be close to needing to be 4", but from the description, I think it is under 15 feet equivalent length. Probably OK, depending on altitude. The only thing I wonder about looking at the pipe is there enough support for the pipe? I only see the one pipe strap. I might put a couple on the house to the pipe. I don't know if it is required. Very nice install.
 
Here's a couple more pics. Sorry for the quality I had to use my cell. I used 3" pipe and it's supported by an angle bracket which is attached to the rail via 2X4. The weight of the vertical rise is resting on that until I can get another strap. It's actually very solid the way it is but I'd feel more at ease with it strapped. Thanks for the comments. BTW, my angle pipe out of the stove doesn't look so pretty now. I had to override the gray RTV with some 2000 degree black mortar caulk. My first couple startups got a little smoky!
-Jeremy
 

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Good Eye! Yes, as soon as I can find one that isn't $114 like the Mt. Vernon one. I'm trying to decide what to use for the funky shaped inlet hole on the stove. Any ideas?
 
Firenutz said:
Here's a couple more pics. Sorry for the quality I had to use my cell. I used 3" pipe and it's supported by an angle bracket which is attached to the rail via 2X4. The weight of the vertical rise is resting on that until I can get another strap. It's actually very solid the way it is but I'd feel more at ease with it strapped. Thanks for the comments. BTW, my angle pipe out of the stove doesn't look so pretty now. I had to override the gray RTV with some 2000 degree black mortar caulk. My first couple startups got a little smoky!
-Jeremy

are you sure it wasn't just the stove cooking the manufacturing oils, and curing the paint? all stoves smoke and smell for the first 5 hours or so... thats why the manufacturers say you need to crank them on high for the first fire, and open windows.
 
Orange Crush CJ-7 said:
Firenutz said:
Here's a couple more pics. Sorry for the quality I had to use my cell. I used 3" pipe and it's supported by an angle bracket which is attached to the rail via 2X4. The weight of the vertical rise is resting on that until I can get another strap. It's actually very solid the way it is but I'd feel more at ease with it strapped. Thanks for the comments. BTW, my angle pipe out of the stove doesn't look so pretty now. I had to override the gray RTV with some 2000 degree black mortar caulk. My first couple startups got a little smoky!
-Jeremy

are you sure it wasn't just the stove cooking the manufacturing oils, and curing the paint? all stoves smoke and smell for the first 5 hours or so... thats why the manufacturers say you need to crank them on high for the first fire, and open windows.

No, this one's old school. I bought it from a coworker used. It's an early model Mt. Vernon. I had the lights out and saw where the smoke was coming out of the joint with a flashlight. I have one more pinhole to seal up and it should be perfect.
 
firewarrior820 said:
being a mobile home dont you need an OAK ?

You know, I would never knew it was a mobile home. Is the outside air kit required on mobile homes because they are tighter than regular houses? I have an OAK on our stove, but I swear, our house must leak enough air to run a J79 jet engine in burner. I am going to spend some time this year trying to correct some of that.
 
Yes, because mobile homes are tighter
 
hearthtools said:
Looks good to me

You CAN NOT direct vent there anyway because to close to a window and wall.
BUT I NEVER DIRECT VENT.

the pipe did not have to be that tall but taller in not always a bad thing.

Not that I would direct vent there either, but the Mt Vernon AE exhaust can be as close as 18" from a door or window if the OAK is used.
 
Firenutz said:
This was my first time doing a project like this. I had the stove running last night for a while and it seemed to be working great. It's a 45 off the back of the stove (Mt. Vernon), 2' through the wall thimble, 10' up from the cleanout T. There's about 4' above the roof and it extends higher than the peak. I'm hoping I installed it within code. I noticed sparks once every minute or so coming out of the cap but they never made it to the roof without fizzling out.

What is the diameter of the pipe? I like to use a 3" to 4" increaser tee with something like that.
You only needed to go 12" above the gutter.
Outside air kit?
Other than that looks great.
Sweet flag.

Eric
 
kinsman stoves said:
Firenutz said:
This was my first time doing a project like this. I had the stove running last night for a while and it seemed to be working great. It's a 45 off the back of the stove (Mt. Vernon), 2' through the wall thimble, 10' up from the cleanout T. There's about 4' above the roof and it extends higher than the peak. I'm hoping I installed it within code. I noticed sparks once every minute or so coming out of the cap but they never made it to the roof without fizzling out.

What is the diameter of the pipe? I like to use a 3" to 4" increaser tee with something like that.
You only needed to go 12" above the gutter.
Outside air kit?
Other than that looks great.
Sweet flag.

Eric
I used 3". The guy I bought it from had 4" but didn't have enough for me to go above the roof and I knew I'd be close to the wood rail so I figured smaller would be better. The reason I went so high is because I was worried about sparks making it all the way to my wood porch and rail which is nice dried up treated lumber. I also read that it's optimal to have your pipe higher than the peak of your roof to pull optimum draft. I did a lot of searching on this forum and it really helped me a lot. Yeah, I have to fly old glory year round and light her up at night. That's how I roll!
 
Firenutz said:
Here's a couple more pics. Sorry for the quality I had to use my cell. I used 3" pipe and it's supported by an angle bracket which is attached to the rail via 2X4. The weight of the vertical rise is resting on that until I can get another strap. It's actually very solid the way it is but I'd feel more at ease with it strapped. Thanks for the comments. BTW, my angle pipe out of the stove doesn't look so pretty now. I had to override the gray RTV with some 2000 degree black mortar caulk. My first couple startups got a little smoky!
-Jeremy

I may be wrong but looking at that photo is that a 90 deg elbo swisted to be 45 deg?
if so that pipe is not ment to be twisted and the inner wall will come apart and leak.
 

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hearthtools said:
Firenutz said:
Here's a couple more pics. Sorry for the quality I had to use my cell. I used 3" pipe and it's supported by an angle bracket which is attached to the rail via 2X4. The weight of the vertical rise is resting on that until I can get another strap. It's actually very solid the way it is but I'd feel more at ease with it strapped. Thanks for the comments. BTW, my angle pipe out of the stove doesn't look so pretty now. I had to override the gray RTV with some 2000 degree black mortar caulk. My first couple startups got a little smoky!
-Jeremy

I may be wrong but looking at that photo is that a 90 deg elbo swisted to be 45 deg?
if so that pipe is not ment to be twisted and the inner wall will come apart and leak.
Yes, it is a 90 twisted to 45. Duravent makes a 90 that swivels but this one did not have any markings on it as to which model number it was. It came in the kit that is designed for corn burning appliances. I can't find that 45 anywhere around my location so I made do with what I had. The dealers around here don't go out of their way to help you unless your spending 3 grand at their store. If it starts leaking I'll order a 45 off of ebay. For now, I checked the pipes with a heat gun. The joints of that 45/90 are around 230* and the exhaust flange is around 330*. I checked it at different intervals and those were the highest numbers I could get. I'm not getting any more smoke on startup.
 
I agree with a tall chimney for optimum draft in a woodstove but your forced exhaust doesn't need to depend on natural draft except during emergency shutdowns like when the power goes out. Is that why you put the thing so high? I prefer the exhaust to look like a gas appliance vent, just barely above the roofline so that only the very attentive inspectors will know that I am burning during a burn ban.
 
Firenutz said:
hearthtools said:
Firenutz said:
Here's a couple more pics. Sorry for the quality I had to use my cell. I used 3" pipe and it's supported by an angle bracket which is attached to the rail via 2X4. The weight of the vertical rise is resting on that until I can get another strap. It's actually very solid the way it is but I'd feel more at ease with it strapped. Thanks for the comments. BTW, my angle pipe out of the stove doesn't look so pretty now. I had to override the gray RTV with some 2000 degree black mortar caulk. My first couple startups got a little smoky!
-Jeremy

I may be wrong but looking at that photo is that a 90 deg elbo swisted to be 45 deg?
if so that pipe is not ment to be twisted and the inner wall will come apart and leak.
Yes, it is a 90 twisted to 45. Duravent makes a 90 that swivels but this one did not have any markings on it as to which model number it was. It came in the kit that is designed for corn burning appliances. I can't find that 45 anywhere around my location so I made do with what I had. The dealers around here don't go out of their way to help you unless your spending 3 grand at their store. If it starts leaking I'll order a 45 off of ebay. For now, I checked the pipes with a heat gun. The joints of that 45/90 are around 230* and the exhaust flange is around 330*. I checked it at different intervals and those were the highest numbers I could get. I'm not getting any more smoke on startup.

the swivle is for the end joint to line up the twist lock.
the old style where fixed and sometimes you could not get the correct angle on the connection and have a full lock on the twist lock so they make the female end ROTATE. they call it a swivle.
 
Highbeam said:
I agree with a tall chimney for optimum draft in a woodstove but your forced exhaust doesn't need to depend on natural draft except during emergency shutdowns like when the power goes out. Is that why you put the thing so high? I prefer the exhaust to look like a gas appliance vent, just barely above the roofline so that only the very attentive inspectors will know that I am burning during a burn ban.
Lucky for me I moved from out west to back east where people laugh at burn bans lol. I went through that in Albuquerque. I think the main reason I went so high is when I saw this thing running at the guys house where I bought it from, there were embers flying everywhere from his shorter 4" setup. Being a fireman and living in a mobile home has me a little paranoid. The only reason that is, is that I've seen plenty burn to the ground because they burn so fast. Tonight will be my first test to see if I can trust it while sleeping. I've had it running all day today with no issues so I'm taking baby steps :).
 
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