draft inducer
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I don't have a separate draft inducer, but I'll write down some thoughts anyway.
You are thinking about adding one because sometimes there is flow reversal in the chimney and things get smokey, especially when lighting from cold?
I imagine that your boiler has an induced fan already but that you also have a barometric damper and this is where smoke escapes until the flow is reversed.
A separate draft inducer would be installed on the chimney past the baro draft inducer, and, again I imagine, that it only runs when certain conditions are met, like a maximum flue gas temp.
I personally think it'd be a good idea, but maybe you should call Tarm.
You are thinking about adding one because sometimes there is flow reversal in the chimney and things get smokey, especially when lighting from cold?
I imagine that your boiler has an induced fan already but that you also have a barometric damper and this is where smoke escapes until the flow is reversed.
A separate draft inducer would be installed on the chimney past the baro draft inducer, and, again I imagine, that it only runs when certain conditions are met, like a maximum flue gas temp.
I personally think it'd be a good idea, but maybe you should call Tarm.
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maple1
Minister of Fire
Depending on the current situation,
Pro - can add sufficient draft if the current chimney/draft situation is under spec or inadequate.
Con - can add too much draft if the current chimney/draft situation is at/over spec or adequate.
Pro - can add sufficient draft if the current chimney/draft situation is under spec or inadequate.
Con - can add too much draft if the current chimney/draft situation is at/over spec or adequate.
To avoid a smokey basement., I'd only use he draft inducer only when starting a fire. Once the fire is established, no need for it.
I don't believe I ever have had smoke roll-out when starting a fire on my Tarm Solo Plus 40. Is your chimney designed correctly, properly installed, sufficient height and clearances, no obstructions? Fire starting with dry kindling always has been easy.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Doesn't the Tarm Solo already have an inducer fan?
I'm thinking an add-on inducer might help on start-ups, but also thinking there must be something with the existing setup that could be improved on, if you're getting smoke from somewhere with an existing inducer fan. I don't get any smoke on my startups, and I don't have any fans at all. I do have a 30' chimney though.
So - this might not be an easy one to answer, without more info on the existing situation.
I'm thinking an add-on inducer might help on start-ups, but also thinking there must be something with the existing setup that could be improved on, if you're getting smoke from somewhere with an existing inducer fan. I don't get any smoke on my startups, and I don't have any fans at all. I do have a 30' chimney though.
So - this might not be an easy one to answer, without more info on the existing situation.
I understand an inducer fan to be on the flue or exhaust output side of the boiler and it pulls air through the burn and gasification chambers. The Tarm 40 has a draft fan on the input side of the boiler which pushes air through the burn and gasification chambers. My starting procedure is to have the fan off, start the fire with good kindling, shut the burn and gasification chamber doors, turn on the fan. The kindling should be sufficient to raise the flue temp to 350F or so which should be sufficient by natural draft to keep air moving through the burn and gasification chambers. Then shut off the fan, open the burn chamber door, add the wood load, close door, turn on the fan.
When adding wood during a burn period, the best procedure is to let the burn progress to coals, shut off the draft fan, open the burn chamber door and add wood, close door, turn on the fan.
When adding wood during a burn period, the best procedure is to let the burn progress to coals, shut off the draft fan, open the burn chamber door and add wood, close door, turn on the fan.
You're absolutely right.; it sure does seem to be forced draft as per the diagram in here: (broken link removed to http://woodboilers.com/media/wysiwyg/Downloads/Product_Manuals/Solo_Plus_Manual.pdf)
maple1
Minister of Fire
I guess I was mistaken about the induced/forced thing.
I don't think there is anything particularly bad that would happen in adding an inducer, as long as it is installed correctly. It was actually suggested that I could add one to my setup if I encountered draft issues on startup, but things turned out OK without.
I don't think there is anything particularly bad that would happen in adding an inducer, as long as it is installed correctly. It was actually suggested that I could add one to my setup if I encountered draft issues on startup, but things turned out OK without.
Once I start a fire with paper and kindling, if I open the door to add more wood I get smoke. Sometimes if I crack it open and kind of sneak up on it I can get away with just a little smoke.
Turning on the combustion fan with the door open would only make it worse.
I'm thinking a draft inducer in the smoke pipe would improve the draft and suck all the smoke up the chimney while loading the firebox.
The stove is located in my basement, and I have a masonry chimney outside the house.
Another sign of poor draft I have is the draft remarkable improves when I crack a window open.
Turning on the combustion fan with the door open would only make it worse.
I'm thinking a draft inducer in the smoke pipe would improve the draft and suck all the smoke up the chimney while loading the firebox.
The stove is located in my basement, and I have a masonry chimney outside the house.
Another sign of poor draft I have is the draft remarkable improves when I crack a window open.
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