Draft problem on unfamiliar stove

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Jake f

New Member
Nov 24, 2021
8
Se Michigan
Hello all. I've encountered my first draft problem with a stove. I have an old heartwood circulator that burns anything with no problem, a picky Ashley hearth 2020 epa stove that I figured out (its just too small) and now this big older stove, arcson model 10 I believe. I have to run it with the door cracked about a quarter inch to keep a bright hit fire burning. It has 2 knobs, one on each side that don't seem to do much of anything to help. Same chimney set up used for all 3 stoves. About 3 ft vertical, 90 degree then about 2.5 feet to a tee, then vertical 10 ft outside, proper pipe used, and all properly seasoned wood used. Even with super dry pine kindling on top of nice coal bed will choke out if door is closed, attached pics of stove.

[Hearth.com] Draft problem on unfamiliar stove [Hearth.com] Draft problem on unfamiliar stove
 
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I think you'll find you're chimney is a bit short. This may be complicated if the chimney is in need of being cleaned.
 
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Any (clogged) screen on the cap?

An elbow adds a foot to the required chimney height. A foot of horizontal run adds about 2 feet to the required height to maintain sufficient draft.
So with two 90 deg elbows and two feet horizontal, you need 6 ft more height than minimum required. I'd say an older stove needs about 12 ft. So in your case 18 ft.

I'd add 6 ft of stove pipe on top of your chimney to test. If that solves your problem, get proper class A (and bracing).
 
Any (clogged) screen on the cap?

An elbow adds a foot to the required chimney height. A foot of horizontal run adds about 2 feet to the required height to maintain sufficient draft.
So with two 90 deg elbows and two feet horizontal, you need 6 ft more height than minimum required. I'd say an older stove needs about 12 ft. So in your case 18 ft.

I'd add 6 ft of stove pipe on top of your chimney to test. If that solves your problem, get proper class A (and bracing).
Everything is nice and clean, I'll have to pick up another couple sections of class a double wall stainless, which is what I'm already running outside. Just stinks that it'll end up costing me a few hundred bucks more to get the chimney and bracing needed to add the extra chimney. I love my old Heartwood but it is a hog as far as burning up my wood goes and it only needed 10-ft of vertical chimney to run great. I can't find any type of manual on this stove it seems to be a ghost
 
  • Like
Reactions: stoveliker
Any (clogged) screen on the cap?

An elbow adds a foot to the required chimney height. A foot of horizontal run adds about 2 feet to the required height to maintain sufficient draft.
So with two 90 deg elbows and two feet horizontal, you need 6 ft more height than minimum required. I'd say an older stove needs about 12 ft. So in your case 18 ft.

I'd add 6 ft of stove pipe on top of your chimney to test. If that solves your problem, get proper class A (and bracing).

[Hearth.com] Draft problem on unfamiliar stove
 
The other thing to check is whether thins improve if you crack a window in the stove room. (I.e. you have a tight home.)
 
The other thing to check is whether thins improve if you crack a window in the stove room. (I.e. you have a tight home.)
I will try cracking the door right now, I'm running it in my garage which is 400 square feet non-insulated but the walls and ceiling are drywalled, the garage door itself is a bit drafty. I used to run the old Heartwood stove with the door cracked all the time to let cigar smoke out because that thing just put off so much heat it was a non-issue. It is 25° f here right now in my garage temp is 62 and starting to climb