Dutchwest 2461 - newbie with questions on refurb and install

[Davidpsalt]

My first post - I just purchased a Dutchwest 2461 from a couple and got them down to $100. (Great deal I know ... No pics yet) I am told they bought it new around mid 90's - has the Vermont Castings address on the back plate and a date code of "2727". Anyone know how to decipher the date?

I took the top off and the the cat was clogged up and the steel ring bowed out - need to just buy a new one. THe refractor is fragile but ok. Gaskets need replacing - door glass, front and side doors, ash pan door and damper.

I pulled the back and side plates out to clean any excess ash from behind there - surprisingly not much there.

Cleaned up the outside finish ... knocked some light surface rust off here and there with some steel wool and am getting ready to pull the glass out and paint her up.

Questions:

- Paint or Polish - are there any pros and cons here? I am leaning towards painting as it will be quick and easy - will do a good job with several light coats.

- What brand Paint to use? - does anyone know what paint will provide the most original finish? Stovebright? Big believer in keeping it original

- Brass fittings converted to nickle - although I love original, I am not a big fan of brass on black. Pricing all the fittings is getting up to approx $150 in new parts - would it be cheaper to take them to some one have have the refinished?

- Cat - pricing varies all over the web. from $150 to $280. Are the all the same or is there a stronger value prop for some over others? Is a cat just a cat? Anyone familiar with Condar Cats: (broken link removed to http://www.woodstovecombustors.com/dutchwest_new.html)

- Complete tear down? It apears that all the joints and cement are still holding up well but have not had any use to see how it is drawing. If it is 15 years old should I just break it down and re-cement all the parts together? There are no cracks or warps so I have no reason to believe anything needs to be replaced.... I just don't know how the joint seals are holding up and if I can avoid it would rather do it next spring!

Am really looking forward to seeing how well this heater will perform when completed. I just bought a Mtn Cabin in the Blue Ridge Mountains - Ranch style with 1,300 sq ft on main floor and 1,300 sq ft on basement level. The plan is to install it in the basement and heat the house so I can save on the central HVAC Propane costs.

Your Advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Hardrockmaple]

I have a 1996 CDW 2460 still purring along. Great stove, bought it new and have put around 450-500 cords of hardwood through it.

Last year I pulled it apart and re-cemented all the seams, replaced the catalyst, glass and gaskets. I went with the steel catalyst and found it moved my light-off temp down about 50 degrees.

I've used only polish on mine to date.

There is a bit of a learning curve with these stoves, but I can now go all day and evening with the stovetop probe at 500-600 degrees without having to baby sit the stove.

They like dry wood!!

 

[BrowningBAR]

I have a 1996 CDW 2460 still purring along. Great stove, bought it new and have put around 450-500 cords of hardwood through it.

How do you burn 30+ cords a year in that stove?

 

[raybonz]

That's a great deal on a good stove.. For the cat you can't beat this price ($125.00 + shipping) on a 6" round x 2" thick S/S cat http://store.woodstove.com/home.php?cat=265 .. Gaskets are available as a kit for around $40.00 and has all the gaskets for that stove (broken link removed to http://www.blackswanhome.com/product/black-swan-gasket-kit-for-dutchwest-stoves) .. As for the finish that stove was originally painted and I hear Stovebrite is the way to go.. All parts for that stove are available but they rarely need any.. Oh and welcome to the forum Dave!

Good Luck,
Ray

 

[Davidpsalt]

Thanks for the good info and the welcom Ray.

I have to say - this is now my forth forum that I subscribe to that supports my hobbies. I have restored a Jeep CJ5, a mid 70's inboard boat, and a John Deere tractor. My wife shakes her head but loves my close to home interests and the time my boys spend with me doing them!

Back to the stove - I am going buy a gasket kit, new Cat, a new handle (was missing), and legs (also missing) and get it painted up in Stovebrite. Should look brand new when I'm finished.

Now I need to start another thread and get some advise on my chimney setup. Since there is not stove or chimney in my basement I have to consider going through the wall and then up or finding a location that I can take it straight up through the house and roof.

Thoughts?

 

[Hardrockmaple]

I have a 1996 CDW 2460 still purring along. Great stove, bought it new and have put around 450-500 cords of hardwood through it.

How do you burn 30+ cords a year in that stove?

Be hard to do... I goofed. make that 45-50 cords total. :red:

 

[BrowningBAR]

I have a 1996 CDW 2460 still purring along. Great stove, bought it new and have put around 450-500 cords of hardwood through it.

How do you burn 30+ cords a year in that stove?

Be hard to do... I goofed. make that 45-50 cords total. :red:

Oh, well thank god for that. Had a hell of a time trying to figure that one out... :bug:

 

[Davidpsalt]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

quick questions on the gasket install - a gal at a wood stove / hearth shop told me that when installing gaskets that I should wet them first in water then put the glue in the chase and press the gaskets in.

Does this water suggestion sound right to any of you? I would think it would need to by dry to get the cement/glue to keep it in there.

Thanks.

 

[raybonz]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

quick questions on the gasket install - a gal at a wood stove / hearth shop told me that when installing gaskets that I should wet them first in water then put the glue in the chase and press the gaskets in.

Does this water suggestion sound right to any of you? I would think it would need to by dry to get the cement/glue to keep it in there.

Thanks.

I don't recall doing that unless they are using some different cement than I used.. I used the gasket glue that came with my Imperial gasket kit I bought at Lowes and the instructions were to clean out all the old glue, dust etc. then apply a thin layer glue to the entire surface that the gasket needs to bond to.. Then let the glue setup until tacky, apply the gasket without stretching it and place newspaper between the gasket and the door and close it for a few hrs.. The newspaper prevents the glue from sticking the door to the stove or the gasket to the other surface.. Hope this makes sense it worked OK for me..

Ray

 

[Davidpsalt]

Makes perfect sense. The wet gasket advice seemed off.

Camt wait to get her back to showroom shape.

Will post pics when finished.

Wish I had snapped a pic before I started with the steel wool.

 

[certified106]

I would recommend using furnace cement on the gaskets and when using the furnace cement you are supposed to wipe the groove with a damp cloth before applying the cement for the best adhesion possible. I have never used glue before.

 

[raybonz]

I would recommend using furnace cement on the gaskets and when using the furnace cement you are supposed to wipe the groove with a damp cloth before applying the cement for the best adhesion possible. I have never used glue before.

Cert the glue I am referring to is special high temp cement made for gaskets.. It worked fine on my door.. Furnace cement may be ok but always used the gasket cement on my stove..

Ray

 

[Don2222]

Hello

See my post on CDW https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/60743/

Also Paint or Polish thread
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/71407/

More Paint or Polish info!
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/2700/

 

[certified106]

I would recommend using furnace cement on the gaskets and when using the furnace cement you are supposed to wipe the groove with a damp cloth before applying the cement for the best adhesion possible. I have never used glue before.

Cert the glue I am referring to is special high temp cement made for gaskets.. It worked fine on my door.. Furnace cement may be ok but always used the gasket cement on my stove..

Ray

I have never used the gasket cement you are talking about however I wonder if there is really any difference between the two types of cement. I was always told by the local dealer to just use regular Rutland furnace cement. Next time I have to replace a gasket on my new stove I will definitely look into the gasket cement you are talking about.

 

[raybonz]

I would recommend using furnace cement on the gaskets and when using the furnace cement you are supposed to wipe the groove with a damp cloth before applying the cement for the best adhesion possible. I have never used glue before.

Cert the glue I am referring to is special high temp cement made for gaskets.. It worked fine on my door.. Furnace cement may be ok but always used the gasket cement on my stove..

Ray

I have never used the gasket cement you are talking about however I wonder if there is really any difference between the two types of cement. I was always told by the local dealer to just use regular Rutland furnace cement. Next time I have to replace a gasket on my new stove I will definitely look into the gasket cement you are talking about.

It's much different Jesse.. It is not too thick and goes on and dries clear with no silica in it.. You apply it to the whole grove with a thin coat and let it sit a little bit until tacky then add the gasket.. Works great on doors with no sign of falling off at all.. The cat bypass was another story on my old CDW but I think for 2 reasons, one the damper slides a little bit on the gasket when you clamp it closed and 2 it's hotter than hell in that area and even the gasket broke down a bit in that heat.. Unfortunately it's more of a PIA to replace that gasket than the doors which are pretty easy..

Ray