EKO door gasket replacement suggestions

[Nofossil]

I'm starting to get a little odor that I think is leakage from my primary chamber door gasket. The sealing surface is baked creosote rather than ceramic/fiberglass rope at this point. It's hard, black, and smooth with no resilience at all. I'm thinking it may be time to replace the gasket.

Since this seal has to be perfect and it's been years since I've done one, I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to do this - materials, techniques, tricks, and so on.

 

[Eric Johnson]

You know I'm going to recommend lots and lots of gooey epoxy, nofossil.

Actually, for rope adhesion in the groove (assuming these doors have a groove), I've had good luck with the liquid silica that you can buy the same place you buy the rope. I scrape out the old glue with a big screwdriver or cold chisel, then paint a coat of the liquid silica in the groove with a solder flux brush and set the rope into place. Close the door tight and wait for the glue to set up. It doesn't take long. They sell graphite-impregnated rope which is supposed to be better.

That's the way I've done it. You might have better luck in the general forum.

 

[barnartist]

Nofossil, I had good luck spraying a heavy coat of WD-40 on mine recently. My gasket has heavy coats of tar buildup too. I made the mistake a week ago of trying to adjust my door seating- while some leftover ash was in the chamber. My shut handle doesnt grab that steel lip enough. I will have to get it right when replacing the rope next time. But I had a bad leak and the WD softend it up nicely to stop the leak. Maybe this is old news. I saw a tag on a Central Boiler stove that recommended it.
By the way, does your EKO have rope gasked for the damper flap, or is it metal to metal?

 

[Nofossil]

Nofossil, I had good luck spraying a heavy coat of WD-40 on mine recently. My gasket has heavy coats of tar buildup too. I made the mistake a week ago of trying to adjust my door seating- while some leftover ash was in the chamber. My shut handle doesnt grab that steel lip enough. I will have to get it right when replacing the rope next time. But I had a bad leak and the WD softend it up nicely to stop the leak. Maybe this is old news. I saw a tag on a Central Boiler stove that recommended it.
By the way, does your EKO have rope gasked for the damper flap, or is it metal to metal?

Interesting. If I can get through the cold part of the season without messing with it, that'd be good.

My damper has rope gasket under the creosote.

 

[Eric Johnson]

Interesting. My bypass damper is a metal-to-metal fit.

I'll have to try the WD-40, barnartist. The manual suggests graphite lubricant, but I use WD for everything else (it's a great hand cleaner), so why not the door gasket. Thanks for the tip!

 

[barnartist]

Fixed me up. I wish when I started the first fire ever in the eko I would have used the WD. I used motor oil, and I think that was a bad idea I am still paying for.
The WD smells good burning too. But maybe you guys with these things inside won't like that.
I have rope on my damper and had A LOT of trouble with it for the first year. Part of it came loose and I did not know it- I lost btu's and had trouble gasifiing without a good damper seal. So did my cousin. By the way he sold his gaser to get a big Central Boiler. I can hear the bagpipes playin now...

 

[Seyiwmz]

Nofossil, Let me throw my 2 cents in. If your gasket is like mine (EKO 40) your gonna wanna do like I do. First carefully remove the square 1 inch fiberlike gasket. Don't break it because it would probably be hard to find. I haven't seen them sold where I'm from. Once it's out, using a hammer, I pound the creosote off and wire brush the heck out of it until it looks brand new. It takes 15-20 minutes of work, but well worth it. Then wire brush the grove where it came from and insert it back into the door. I usually have to pound a little on the gasket to make it fit. Then it works like it came from the factory. Good Luck...... Seyiwmz

 

[sled_mack]

So you just soak the gasket in WD40? Once and done, or you have to do it often to keep it soft?

Mine has a small leak at the bottom of the upper door, right in the middle.

Has anyone replaced the entire gasket yet? I've only ever seen round, rope style gaskets. I was just assuming that if you got the right size and squeezed it in there, it would conform to the square channel. If that works, anyone know what size rope works best?

 

[Nofossil]

Thanks for the suggestions. I soaked it in WD-40 and worked it out just a bit, then closed the door on it and it works fine.

I also called Zenon. It's 1 25mm square gasket, and he says that they're $31. He suggests removing, soaking in oil, and replacing facing inside out. Seems like good advice.

 

[barnartist]

I give it a spray as needed. It did wonders for me. But maybe its so thin is evaporates quick I dont know. Ive only been using it for a few weeks. But its too hart to pray anything heavier- and oil seems to really smoke and odor.

 

[leaddog]

I used high temp silicone spray on mine and it seems to work ok. I think it will last longer than wd-40. I had some that I had picked up at a auction.
leaddog

 

[barnartist]

Sound like you Dog, auction. You need to get with me by the way.