Fast cycle vertical splitter

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It is done. Went with the Intek 344cc engine on the 16 gpm pump, with an upgraded suction line. Runs like a champ, except I haven't figured out a throttle solution. This particular motor was only available with remote throttle, and I'd like to convert it to a local or fixed throttle. This one also has the choke (auto) tied to the throttle, which complicates that endeavor.

Anyone who knows what a accessory controls might be available for the Briggs Intek engines, I'm all ears! I don't have a good plan, yet.

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Well done! I have noticed in the description from some engine suppliers they will list what that particular series of engine is used commonly used for..possibly providing you some insight?
 
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Yahbut... the best place to mount a throttle on this splitter happens to be on the engine itself! I am hoping Briggs makes some sort of throttle control that bolts right to, or in place of, that throttle plate where the cable would connect.

I gotta find out what that wire is on the throttle plate, shown right next to my pick awl in the last photo. I'm guessing it might be an ignition kill point, but haven't found much Brigg's documentation on this engine, or any sort of install guide.
 
Jackpot! I think I found the part. Ordering the part, will let you know how it pans out.
 
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Not unusual for Briggs engines that all the way down is kill, all the way up is choke. Makes for a one cable design. My big boy is that way and it works fine.
 
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Yeah, I've seen this... some love it and some hate it. I can see both sides of their argument, but I think it will work fine for me. I'm just glad it has a choke, the original engine just had a primer bulb and no choke, which made for a fun start-up in dead-cold weather.

I found there is one MF = Manual Friction version of this engine, with different electrics than mine, but otherwise almost identical. I compared the BOM's for the throttle and governor assemblies, and they're identical, minus this throttle control and one governor spring. So I have those parts on order thru Jack's, and should see them by the end of this week. I'll let you know how the conversion goes.

Next up, I need to figure out how to mount a battery to this rig, and configure the electric start. I've already increased the weight on the engine mounting plate 2.6x (28 to 73 lb.), while simultaneously moving the COG farther from its welded mounting points. So, while the most convenient place to mount a battery seems to be under that motor mount, near the pump, I'd rather not add the weight there. Maybe I can hang one under the trailering beam? I think I already have a battery that might work, a 12V 7ah sealed unit that came with my son's Peg Perego John Deere riding tractor toy.
 
Nice. How about the start/kill switch? My lawn tractor with an Intek V twin has a key, naturally. There's a relay involved too, I bet. I think a magneto charges the battery, to some degree. Maybe if you stuck with the remote choke/throttle you could mount the key switch (or whatever) close to it.
 
I have to look at the charging / alternator system schematic, but I think that single wiring post by the throttle is probably a pull-to-ground kill point. If so, I can just punch a hole in the sheetmetal throttle control plate and install a toggle switch or N/O momentary contact button there, and wire it to ground.
 
I use a DPDT, momentary switch for the start and stop. Also the throttle cable in full down is a kill as well. I find I use that more than the switch.
 
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I might copy your setup. I doubt I'd use the kill switch under normal use, as you said, the throttle is the way to go. But I might be glad it's there, if the throttle malfunctions.
 
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I love this thread. My huskee 22 has the flathead briggs which may die someday and a pump with oozy gaskets so I would love to upgrade when the chance presents itself.

In addition to this thread I have found another good one that may have helped you out. He vent horizontal and it works too!

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/huskee-22-ton-motor-replacement-for-dummys.308403/

This website sometimes has problems linking to other forums even if the information is applicable so I may have to try a few things. Think arborist site.
 
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I'll post a full BOM and costs, once I've proven this thing in. It was a very easy upgrade, but I want to prove it works well, before sharing it with others. If you need the info before that, just PM me for it.
 
Looking over my huskee 22, seems a big restriction is the very small metal line that feeds the ram to extend. Looks like 3/8"!
 
Looking over my huskee 22, seems a big restriction is the very small metal line that feeds the ram to extend. Looks like 3/8"!

Yes, it is. But I checked the size of the line Speeco uses on the 28 and 35 ton splitters, both of which ship with a 16 GPM pump, and all three use the same exactly line there.

When I upgraded my pump, before swapping motors, I did notice the old motor labored most when on the up-stroke. I didn't experiment to see if the cause was that line or the valve, but it is when that line would be at lower pressure and it's restrictive behavior most noticeable.

I did a quick search for SAE, AN, and other flare to NPT elbows that would hold a larger hard line, but didn't turn up anything yet. It seems the hard line size (OD) is always matched to the NPT size on the elbow fittings I find.
 
Yes, it is. But I checked the size of the line Speeco uses on the 28 and 35 ton splitters, both of which ship with a 16 GPM pump, and all three use the same exactly line there.

When I upgraded my pump, before swapping motors, I did notice the old motor labored most when on the up-stroke. I didn't experiment to see if the cause was that line or the valve, but it is when that line would be at lower pressure and it's restrictive behavior most noticeable.

I did a quick search for SAE, AN, and other flare to NPT elbows that would hold a larger hard line, but didn't turn up anything yet. It seems the hard line size (OD) is always matched to the NPT size on the elbow fittings I find.

On the other forums people actually have replaced that hard line, and the elbow reducers with full sized elbows and hydraulic hose. It doesn't need to be metal.

I didn't read that you already put on a 16 gpm pump. Did you do that with the OEM engine? Bolted right up? Did it improve cycle time? I too split excessively large rounds but not oak!
 
Yep, that 16 GPM pump was the whole point of this upgrade, as I was aiming for faster cycle times. Essentially, the stock 11 GPM is spec'd at an optimistic 12 GPM, running slightly faster than spec'd RPM for that pump. Playing off that number, 16 GPM should give 8.5 seconds, and 22 GPM 6.0 seconds. Unfortunately, the 22 GPM pump would require port sizes you'll never find on a standard 4" cylinder (you could have one custom built, at double cost), so I settled for 16 GPM. All line sizes on the Huskee 22 ton splitter agree with the requirements of a 16 GPM pump, excepting the suction line, which I upgraded to 1". I also upgraded the suction line tank fitting to a thin wall steel 1" hose to 3/4" NPT large bore fitting.

I did try running this once on the OEM engine, just for kicks, while I was awaiting delivery of my larger engine. It was slow, and the engine labored against the larger pump, particularly on the up-stroke. However, yes, the pump I chose bolted directly up to the OEM engine, using the OEM love joy coupling. With the new engine, I just had to buy a new 1" love joy half coupling.
 
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Please PM me a link to the cylinder return line upgrade, Highbeam. They must have a swivel fitting on one end, as you'd not get it to thread together on an all-NPT system. That's where hard line has an advantage.
 
Please PM me a link to the cylinder return line upgrade, Highbeam. They must have a swivel fitting on one end, as you'd not get it to thread together on an all-NPT system. That's where hard line has an advantage.

I looked for hours but just couldn't find it again. Supposedly, gave gains even with the 11 gpm pump. I don't know why speeco came out of the valve with full size threads and put that reducer elbow on, then little metal line, then increaser elbow to thread into the ram.

There must be a swivel on the other pressure line too. No big deal.
 
On mine, the line size is matched to the elbow size. It's 1/2" NPT on valve and cylinder, and the elbows are 1/2" NPT to 1/2" SAE flare. Keep in mind, 1/2" hard line is 1/2" OD. That isn't great for what we want, but it's hard to find an NPT to SAE elbow that's anything other than matched size (eg. 1/2" to 1/2").
 
On mine, the line size is matched to the elbow size. It's 1/2" NPT on valve and cylinder, and the elbows are 1/2" NPT to 1/2" SAE flare. Keep in mind, 1/2" hard line is 1/2" OD. That isn't great for what we want, but it's hard to find an NPT to SAE elbow that's anything other than matched size (eg. 1/2" to 1/2").

That's why we would toss out the silly small metal pipe and stay at npt 1/2" size throughout. Why is there even a metal pipe? ID is certainly less than anything else in the system. Saving grace is that the 35 ton with higher gpm pumps also use this metal line so maybe it's not that big a problem.

I'm getting anxious to split some wood.
 
While I don't disagree with your general sentiment, remember that even a 1/2" hydraulic line with NPT fittings is going to have a bore smaller than the JIC 0.406" bore of that tube, at the interface between the fitting and the hose. If you want to guarantee a 1/2" bore, you're into something larger than 1/2".

Put otherwise, the hose coming directly off your pump has a fitting whose bore may only be 0.375 where it inserts into the hose, so this is not the only restriction in the system.
 
Okay, Highbeam. You've bugged me enough that I went out and found some 1/2" NPTM to JIC 10 fittings. Just need to order nuts and line, and I'll be up-sized.
 
Okay, Highbeam. You've bugged me enough that I went out and found some 1/2" NPTM to JIC 10 fittings. Just need to order nuts and line, and I'll be up-sized.

You just got done convincing me that it was fine as-is!
 
I'm not sure if it will make a difference or not, but it can't hurt!