Finished Classic bay 1200 OAK but there are concerns!

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Lineman30

Feeling the Heat
Jul 9, 2010
333
Northeastern Oklahoma
I just finished installing my OAK on my CB 1200 today and tried it out. I'm not quite sure how effective it really is because I can feel drafts all around the bottom of the base. I was wonder if I sealed around the base would that improve or hamper the stove. And if so what would work to seal it but not permanently (yearly cleaning). I also let it run for a while and couldn't get a decent flame and I adjusted the feed rate and still no improvement. This is the first time I've had problems trying to get the manuals 4-6 inch flame at high setting. The only thing I tampered with during the cleaning was my burn pot and the gasket had a little tear. The guy at my stove shop told me I could use a high temp copper silicone and it would work fine for replacing the gasket. He said he used it on his stove. So does anyone have any idea on the OAK and my lack of flame hight?
 
Lineman30 said:
I just finished installing my OAK on my CB 1200 today and tried it out. I'm not quite sure how effective it really is because I can feel drafts all around the bottom of the base......
You mean the base of the stove, right? Not sure how installing an OAK would cause that.

Have you tried removing the OAK connection to the stove and running it?
 
imacman said:
Lineman30 said:
I just finished installing my OAK on my CB 1200 today and tried it out. I'm not quite sure how effective it really is because I can feel drafts all around the bottom of the base......
You mean the base of the stove, right? Not sure how installing an OAK would cause that.

Have you tried removing the OAK connection to the stove and running it?




Yes I mean from the base of the stove. The CB 1200 has a slot underneath the base and that's where it draws the air into. My base is not very level so while the stove is on you can feel the air being drawn under the stove. The OAK is attached in the back of the stove and is mounted onto the base. So unhooking it really won't help. I was wondering is it really going to help the performance? Also I know it was drawing air from outside because I took a candle and blew it out and it drew the smoke into the OAK. Are all quadra fires designed like this one?
 
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That's exactly why I never put OAK's on my two Quads. The damn things have so many openings that an OAK would be ineffective, IMHO. I think the OAK opening was an afterthought on Quad's part just to say they have one. You're going to get more air IN when the stove's not running than it will suck when running. The path of least resistance is around the ash tray and several other places. I ASS U ME that the 1200 is similar in design.
 
None of the quad units have an air tight OAK system. So there will be leaks into the house when the stove is not running.

The Mt Vernon AE is almost air tight, a little silicone and it is sealed up good. All the rest of them I don't know if you can seal it up good enough or not.

We only have a few installs around with the OAK installed. One of them on an AE we ended up pulling out because it was causing performance problems and the house was so air tight cold was bleeding in anywhere it could, which was through the OAK right into their family room floor where they would lay on the floor to play with their kids.
 
jtp10181 said:
None of the quad units have an air tight OAK system. So there will be leaks into the house when the stove is not running.

The Mt Vernon AE is almost air tight, a little silicone and it is sealed up good. All the rest of them I don't know if you can seal it up good enough or not.

We only have a few installs around with the OAK installe One of them on an AE we ended up pulling out because it was causing performance problems and the house was so air tight cold was bleeding in anywhere it could, which was through the OAK right into their family room floor where they would lay on the floor to play with their kids.


I was wanting to install the OAK to eliminate the drafts that occur on the floor. What I was thinking was using some type of weather stripping around the base. My stove sets on a tile pad and I noticed the base is kinda warped so it kinda rocks back and forth. I stated earlier about my flame could that have anything to do with the OAK? My home is just 3 1/2 years old and isn't super air tight.
 
You were getting drafts without the OAK installed? Was this during use or when its idle?

The flame could be effected by the OAK if the firebox is not getting enough air into it. Simple test is to disconnect it from the back of the stove.

I don't know what building codes are like OK, but here in WI a 3.5 yr old house would be sealed up very well and very well insulated. We find many newer homes that do not have adequate make-up air systems built in and air leaks in anywhere it possibly can. Once you create a large negative pressure in the house you will find all the little air leaks that would otherwise go unnoticed.
 
jtp10181 said:
You were getting drafts without the OAK installed? Was this during use or when its idle?

The flame could be effected by the OAK if the firebox is not getting enough air into it. Simple test is to disconnect it from the back of the stove.

I don't know what building codes are like OK, but here in WI a 3.5 yr old house would be sealed up very well and very well insulated. We find many newer homes that do not have adequate make-up air systems built in and air leaks in anywhere it possibly can. Once you create a large negative pressure in the house you will find all the little air leaks that would otherwise go unnoticed.



Yes I was getting drafts only when the stove is on. The drafts are around the base of the stove. The only time I feel it is when I'm on the floor playing with the kids. As you probably know how the classic bay is designed with the slot under the base for the intake for the air. I was wondering if I sealed around the base would that effect the amount of air? I have unhooked the OAK and it's still the same. I live in the country and when it comes to codes it really isn't followed but my house is well insulated and windows and doors are the efficient ones.
 
I do not understand how you would be getting a draft from under the stove while it is running without an OAK. Where is the outside air coming from?
 
There are two sources of drafts around every pellet stove.

1: From air being sucked into the combustion air intake and pushed out the vent.

2: From air being sucked into the convection system and pushed out into the room as heated air.

The one that is normally noticed is the first one since it results in very cold air being sucked into the house from the outside and pulled along the floor.

The second one eventually gets close enough in temperature to the room air that it isn't noticed.

Now I've seen pictures of that adapter plate that is used on the Castile is there something similar for the CB1200? If so I'd be using some sealant.

The OAK should really be setup so no air except from the outside can enter the firebox. Some stoves makers appear to have forgotten that.
 
jtp10181 said:
I do not understand how you would be getting a draft from under the stove while it is running without an OAK. Where is the outside air coming from?


Well you know how the stove draws the air from the slot under the stove. The base of the stove is not very level so it rocks a little. The stoves pad is ceramic tile. It has always been drafty at the base. The stove sets about 3 feet from a door.
I was hoping the OAK would stop the drafting. Would it be OK to seal between the base and tile pad or would that cause a problem for the amount of air needed to be drawn for the stove?
 
I have an older Quad and it has the ability to draw air from either an "OAK" or from the room.

The system is set up so that the OAK is an added source of combustion air.

I have an OAK on one of my Whitfields and the air inlet pipe has a PORT in it about 3 inches inside the stoves back cover.

Again the OAK is not the total air source.

I prefer to let my stoves pull air from the room as this allows fresh air to be drawn in from the central heating systems outside air inlet.

This keeps the air "exchanging" in the house.

Now in some homes there may not be a fresh air inlet and this is where the OAK is an absolute MUST HAVE.

You dont want the stove pulling all the air from the home without fresh air being allowed to replace it.

As mentioned the airflow through the quad (any stove) can fool you as the room air fans have to circulate air and they pull it in from around the stove.

With your OAK connected, you should be good to go.

Snowy
 
I would try to pull the OAK off and re-test the stove. Last year my second year in burning I tried an OAK and I felt the performance was compromised and less efficient. I agree about the draft at floor level even with my Harman. I blame this on the distribution/air convection blower. I have tested the stove and felt the pull of air for the combustion blower and no way is it as powerful as drawing air from the convection blower. So even with the OAK there is going to be a pull of air from the convection blower. Higher the blower(convection) speed to in the room, faster the pull from the cracks and seams of the doors. In some installation cases though I can see where an OAK can be beneficial. In mine it wasn't.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
There are two sources of drafts around every pellet stove.

1: From air being sucked into the combustion air intake and pushed out the vent.

2: From air being sucked into the convection system and pushed out into the room as heated air.

The one that is normally noticed is the first one since it results in very cold air being sucked into the house from the outside and pulled along the floor.

The second one eventually gets close enough in temperature to the room air that it isn't noticed.

Now I've seen pictures of that adapter plate that is used on the Castile is there something similar for the CB1200? If so I'd be using some sealant.

The OAK should really be setup so no air except form the outside can enter the firebox. Some stoves makers appear to have forgotten that.



I made my own adapter and did seal it and screwed to the base. I just think it's a poor design since there Is no duct for the OAK To the air intake under the stove. The base is meant to be the duct. So thats why I think the drafts that occur while running happen. It can't decipher between outside air or room air. So its going to draw from both locations.
 
Ok I am getting two things from you, 1) you are definitely getting a draft with the OAK connected (this is normal, its not air tight). 2) you might have been getting a draft before the OAK was installed (not sure where this would come from? Not directly from the stove itself.)

Again, the Quad OAK kits are not meant to be air tight. If you are getting outside air from OAK bleeding into your house then your house probably has pressure problems.

If the base in normal circumstances would sit flat and somewhat seal to the hearth then it would make sense to add gasketing or something in your situation and seal it better. If this does not allow enough air to be drawn into the stove it will not burn correctly.
 
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