Fire Chief FC1500 install

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Well I could not hook the 8" rounds duct up in the fashion HYC said, as I only have 13 " from the top of furnace to ceiling in basement. I had a plenum box built 8"x 16" x3 ft connecting to the plenum of the oil furnace (meets what HYC says as the minimum of 100 sq inches) I spoke with HYC to see if this method was OK and not voiding warranty... Im gonna put a return air boot on the side of the filter box and use 12" round flex duct to a large first floor vent cold air return and enclose the back of the filter box. HYC said this is all good. I also need a backdraft damper on the oil furnace plenum.

I burned the furnace 2 days and noticed the distribution wasnt right so, I stopped burning till I get the cold air return and damper issues resolved... I did notice burning seasoned locust that it only lasted about 3 hours firebox half full and had horrible odor in the house...I used to have a jensen wood furnace prior and will miss the fact that I cant control the burn...
 
Well I could not hook the 8" rounds duct up in the fashion HYC said, as I only have 13 " from the top of furnace to ceiling in basement.

Is the stove on blocks?

I burned the furnace 2 days and noticed the distribution wasnt right so, I stopped burning till I get the cold air return and damper issues resolved...

What wasn’t right? Damper issues?

I did notice burning seasoned locust that it only lasted about 3 hours firebox half full and had horrible odor in the house...

Did you fire the unit outside before installing? First couple burns have an awful smell.

Did you install a biometric damper or have the draft tested?

Lemon? Probably not, just short burn times (heat output).

I was told 3 weeks ago that everything would be straightened out by the end of THAT week. While I have had a couple of calls and emails since, I am STILL in the same boat.

Since the units are still so new, there is very little tested guide lines for optimized results.
 
The unit sits on a cement slab. No Biometric damper and no draft check on flu...I have 30' block chimney with a brand new 6" SS Liner. Just had the liner installed week ago.Didnt burn it outside, my mistake...The issues are currently with the distribution...Im sure the furnace is to burn hot, but common sense tells me that the hotter the burn the quicker your out of fuel. (wood). Like I said I burned 2 days , and maybe tops got 4 hr burn time...
 
The unit sits on a cement slab. No Biometric damper and no draft check on flu...I have 30' block chimney with a brand new 6" SS Liner. Just had the liner installed week ago.Didnt burn it outside, my mistake...The issues are currently with the distribution...Im sure the furnace is to burn hot, but common sense tells me that the hotter the burn the quicker your out of fuel. (wood). Like I said I burned 2 days , and maybe tops got 4 hr burn time...

Welcome to my world! We are on the same cruse liner :)

I also have a ~30’ chimney with a 6” SS liner.
Without the baro installed, the stove is a rocket ship. Expect 800 F flue temps.
 
The 1000 has actually kept up today with -16 and -48 windchill where we landed. Been 73-74 inside all day and no propane. I just went out and looked at the tank that was filled January 7, 2018, yes last year, and it’s at 75%. I’ve been loading every 6 hours but, I expected that in this cold.

If this piece of crap was more user friendly and didn’t require modifications to work correctly it wouldn’t be a bad furnace. Maybe I should patent my fix so they have to buy it from me. I’d sell it to them for the price of the stove so I got my money back.
 
The 1000 has actually kept up today with -16 and -48 windchill where we landed. Been 73-74 inside all day and no propane. I just went out and looked at the tank that was filled January 7, 2018, yes last year, and it’s at 75%. I’ve been loading every 6 hours but, I expected that in this cold.

If this piece of crap was more user friendly and didn’t require modifications to work correctly it wouldn’t be a bad furnace. Maybe I should patent my fix so they have to buy it from me. I’d sell it to them for the price of the stove so I got my money back.

Send me photos and directions of the fix. Still planning on using mine for the garage.
 
The 1000 has actually kept up today with -16 and -48 windchill where we landed. Been 73-74 inside all day and no propane. I just went out and looked at the tank that was filled January 7, 2018, yes last year, and it’s at 75%. I’ve been loading every 6 hours but, I expected that in this cold.

If this piece of crap was more user friendly and didn’t require modifications to work correctly it wouldn’t be a bad furnace. Maybe I should patent my fix so they have to buy it from me. I’d sell it to them for the price of the stove so I got my money back.


That's the one thing about any of those old school (I know it's not marketed that way, but I feel it is) furnaces. Lack of heat normally is not one of the complaints. :cool:
 
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@Mrpelletburner

I'm new here, and plan on burning an FC1000 this winter (don't have the chimney up yet) so I may be picking your brain for tips and tricks. Are you still using the 1500 or did you go away from FC altogether? Did anyone else report cracked welds and did HY-C say anything about that?
 
@Mrpelletburner

I'm new here, and plan on burning an FC1000 this winter (don't have the chimney up yet) so I may be picking your brain for tips and tricks. Are you still using the 1500 or did you go away from FC altogether? Did anyone else report cracked welds and did HY-C say anything about that?

So my first question is... how seasoned is the wood supply?

I have moved on from FC (still own the 1500). However IMO trying different WF models is part of the learning curve.

My approach to burning/install regarding the 1000 would be way different today then my approach then.

The 1500 IMO is a solid unit, you won’t get anywhere close to the advertised burn times, however the unit outputs some serious heat. I can confirm that they did improve the welds and would not hesitate recommending the unit if burn times is not a factor.

Currently have the HeatMax II installed and I am able to load at 11 at night and still have the house at 69-70 degrees at 7am. Perhaps in time I will be able to extend the burn time.

The big difference I think between the 1500 and the HeatMax II, is the HeatMax with the primary air damper allows me to control the heat output. The 1500 has no way to slow down the burn, therefore your house temp goes from 68 to 78 with ease.


Not sure if that answers your question.
 
So my first question is... how seasoned is the wood supply?
I haven't had any delivered yet, so I would ask, how seasoned does it have to be? After the first couple winters I plan to cut, split and season from my own land but I assumed I would need some delivered for the first couple winters.

Do you think the 1000 can function well in an optimum set up? Do you still have your 1000 to tinker with?
 
Buying wood is always a risk unless you really know and trust the seller. Most species of wood should season for 2yrs to get it below the 20% moisture level minimum. Invest in a moisture meter and test your wood (split it once more to expose a fresh part of the center of the split and measure there). If you plan to start harvesting wood on your land don’t hesitate, you almost can’t get too far ahead. You’ll be surprised at how much wood you’re chewing through in a months time, especially when it starts getting colder out. Best of luck to ya, there is a whole lot to learn and a lot of work to do but you have a nice support group here.
 
plan on burning an FC1000 this winter (don't have the chimney up yet)
Did you already buy it? If not, can you still get out of the deal?
 
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I haven't had any delivered yet, so I would ask, how seasoned does it have to be? After the first couple winters I plan to cut, split and season from my own land but I assumed I would need some delivered for the first couple winters.

Do you think the 1000 can function well in an optimum set up? Do you still have your 1000 to tinker with?

I wouldn't count on burning this winter then. Always assume wood you buy will still need a year of seasoning. It might turn out it doesn't, but if so that would be equivalent to winning a wood buying lottery.
 
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