Fireplace upgrade to insert, size and measurements included - thoughts and guidance

[cabinwarmer]

Good Day, thanks for the past thoughts on this project. I have taken a few more measurements and thought I would post to help with making a choice for an insert. Please see attached.
Room size:
325 sq ' first floor
325 sq' second floor - stairs on far end of room from insert - vents in floor currently

Stone walls, 18-24"thick. Drafty and cool. Old stone work farm house section of house

Current fireplace info:
50W x 34H opening
Firebox depth 28"
Raised hearth - 18" (but only 12" deep, will need to extend at floor level)
Rear firebox 14"H
Rear Width 37"
Heigth at 18" = 34"
Width at 18" = 44"
Masonary Chimney - 15'
Terracotta lined 16" x 11" inside measurement

As mentioned in previous posts - Interested in the tax break if applicable.
Possible units -
Regency i2500 Hybrid - tax credit
Osborn 2000 or 2700 - no tax credit
Ashforf 25 - tax credit, but may not be happy with local dealership
QF and VC are fixed rate burners, staying away from them as I like the control

6" SS liner - was quoted the Heavyflex 304 liner at a $350 premium to the Heavylite 304 and smooth wall. Worth it?
I also will be looking for a block off plate - how thick?
Insulation of the existing firebox - best way to do that?

Thank you all for your guidance and feedback.

Dave
Hoping to get some feedback to move this project along.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Anyone have a minute to look at this? Thanks!

 

[begreen]

The Drolet 1800i is the sibling to the Osburn. It's cost-effective even without the tax credit.

 

[BrianVA]

QF and VC are fixed rate burners, staying away from them as I like the control

6" SS liner - was quoted the Heavyflex 304 liner at a $350 premium to the Heavylite 304 and smooth wall. Worth it?

Good call to stay away from units with no manual air control.

I don't know about the liner. I will say that I opted to spend an extra $300 to get my liner wrapped with insulation.

Do you prefer a unit that mounts flush, or sticks out on the hearth? I went with flush for two reasons: 1) aesthetics, my wife liked it better, 2) it helped with clearances.

 

[EbS-P]

How does the fireplace room connect to other rooms if so how?

I just installed an 1800i. Haven’t used it enough to say I’m an expert but 325 sq ft is not large. Stove room will be warm. Too warm??? I that’s subjective.

I like The unit. If I could have justified the extra cost I would have installed something nicer. BK Princess maybe. But with my heatpump I don’t need low and slow. I am prioritizing my high output needs over low and slow.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Good Day, thanks for the responses.
Hearth flush mount or sticking out is no big deal. Probably flush for clearances. Yes, will insulate flue. The fireplace room connects via a very thick 36 inch stone wall with a smaller door way. Think 1774 farm house front door. The second floor above is via a stairway on the opposite side away from the insert. The room is very cool, drafty and average insulated. Also on the North side of the house. I am thinking maybe low and slow to get the stone up to a warmer temp. BUT, usage in that part of the house is less then other areas, so a hotter faster heat up may be better. I think all the clearances are good except the hearth will need some type of protection or a floor pad.

 

[EbS-P]

Don’t for get the wood shed. Every February I’m kicking myself for thinking a tarp is good enough. Nothing worse that wet wood.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Re-visiting this project in order to make something happen. I have had the fireplace inspected twice. First inspection as mentioned in earlier chain, fireplace failed inspection. Rusted firebox and mortar missing from inside the chimney.
Update - I have had a Chimney Pro come the second time and take a look at rebuilding the fire place to keep it a fireplace. His response after inspection was that the measurements were 2 inches over the largest "kit" that he could find. Explanation was that reflective baffles would be used to rebuild the metal fire box after it was removed. Largest size he could find was 48". I believe he was using 50" as the measurement he was looking to work with. His recommendation is to instal a free standing stove with flex pipe. I was trying to stay away from this option as we have two wood stoves already on the property, and would like the old fireplace to be usable.

Questions:

1- If I was to have a mason rebuild the firebox with proper fire brick, what is the recommended flue repair? Liner? Flex?
2- I assume new damper and proper lintel dimensions are required? Is that masonry or are there kits?
3- Is anyone familiar with these rebuilding kits? If so, does 50" seem like a limitation to any product on the market?

Thanks for your guidance and feedback,

Dave

 

[bigealta]

I vote for woodstove. You can get one that's ok to burn with the doors open to give you the open fire you think you want. Then you close the door and walk away / go to sleep with no worries sparks will pop out / all the heat from room gets sucked away, etc.