Fiskar’s sharpener (and help pick axe size too)

[szmaine]

Quick question...

Is the Fiskar's axe shapener worth getting with the axe? Cost ~$10.00.

Edit: Oops, should have gone to the Gear forum - sorry about that.

 

[fossil]

It's useful for keeping the edge razor-sharp, but it's certainly not going to do much to dress a nick of any size. I'm a lot more careful to make sure that my Fiskars cutting edges never contact anything other than wood than I ever was with my old tools. Rick

 

['bert]

I got one to go with my 2 fiskers axes, they do work well to keep the edge, but watch out for your shins (very short handle) %-P

 

[szmaine]

Ok, as long as they work well, it said it did knives too and I started to get these imgages of the ginsu commercials..
ya know, it slices, it dices, etc.

While I'm at it maybe you all can help me choose the right size:
Mostly I want to do smaller rounds, re-splits and make kindling.
5'8" , 120lb, strong - but not as strong as a guy obviously.
Was lookin at the super splitter but do you think I should get the lighter one?
Need a kindling axe too - 14" or 17" fiskars hatchet ? or sompling else?

I'll change my title...

 

[fossil]

My most used are the lighter of the two 28" splitting axes (what they call the "Pro", vs. the "Super"), and the 17" splitting axe/hatchet. The little 14" hatchet is useful, but pretty light duty. The heavier 28" splitting axe might be the better choice if you're working with hardwoods, but it wouldn't hurt to start with the lighter one and see if it gets the job done for you. Lots of people sort of pooh-pooh these tools because of the handle length. I typically split on a 16" round as a base, so all the shorter handle length really meant was that I was standing a couple of inches closer. Took me all of about 15 or 20 minutes to grow accustomed to, and now my old axes/mauls feel awkward (too long) to me. Rick

 

['bert]

I have the Pro Splitting Axe (28" 2.2# if I remember right) and the Splitting Axe 17" (I would call it a hatchet). Both work well - but only see limited use for me as I typically laze out and use the hyd. splitter. Same as Ricks recommendations. Bought them mostly to see what the hype was all about. For all the free press these products get here they should be sending Craig a cheque.

 

[szmaine]

Ok, I'll go with the 17" for kindling - I thought it sounded long but measured what I'm using now which is an ancient 16" shingle axe.

The splitter: We have mixed hardwood - maple, locust, beech oak etc - you think the heavier one is the best way to go? I'd prefer the lighter one if it could do the job but probably have it stuck in my mind how heavy husbands mauls and axes seem to me. Really only want to buy one of them though. Mostly I'll be splitting half rounds, I think. I'm finding with the Oslo that it easier to load up with 1/4 size splits.

 

['bert]

But the Pro instead of the Super. It will get the job done.

 

[szmaine]

I have the Pro Splitting Axe (28" 2.2# if I remember right) and the Splitting Axe 17" (I would call it a hatchet). Both work well - but only see limited use for me as I typically laze out and use the hyd. splitter. Same as Ricks recommendations. Bought them mostly to see what the hype was all about. For all the free press these products get here they should be sending Craig a cheque.

Did they live up to the hype in your opinion. We have a hyd. splitter too - but some of the wood needs work before use - my husband tends to leave it a large as possible.

 

['bert]

yes they did, I was very very impressed. All my other axes are now in the back of the shed somewhere. I have recommended them to my "friends" that like to ask to borrow my splitter.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I've got a guestion for you Fiskar guys. I have thought about buying one of these for the hype but they are totally different from what I am accustomed to. I use a 16 lb Monster Maul that has a steel handle, have had it for 25 years, and love it. There is no such thing as sharpening it (it is a steel wedge with not edge). Everything I have read about mauls is that they should be dull, so as not to stick in the wood. My MM never gets stuck. Some guys intentionally hit rocks and dirt to dull new mauls. Look at Savage who has 27 cords of wood and says he only sharpened his maul once, and would never do it again. I don't get the sharpening.

 

[peterc38]

Ok, I'll go with the 17" for kindling - I thought it sounded long but measured what I'm using now which is an ancient 16" shingle axe.

The splitter: We have mixed hardwood - maple, locust, beech oak etc - you think the heavier one is the best way to go? I'd prefer the lighter one if it could do the job but probably have it stuck in my mind how heavy husbands mauls and axes seem to me. Really only want to buy one of them though. Mostly I'll be splitting half rounds, I think. I'm finding with the Oslo that it easier to load up with 1/4 size splits.

I have the 17" that I use for kindling and the super splitter for splitting rounds. Very good combo IMO.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I love love love my 2.25lb Pro Splitting Axe.

I bought it just to have a nice, smaller ax (which it is) but it has become my primary splitting tool as well (which I was no expecting at all).

Never tried the 4.5lb Super Splitting Axe, but it's probably great.

 

[fossil]

I've got a guestion for you Fiskar guys... don't get the sharpening.

The Fiskars splitting tools are a different species from the traditional mauls. The Fiskars is a lighter, more elegant design, as compared with the brute force of the conventional mauls. The design of the head on the Fiskars, combined with a razor-sharp edge is what makes a lighter tool capable of doing the job traditionally done by the much heavier tools. The Fiskars requires care to keep the head from touching anything but wood, and an occasional touch-up sharpening. Much less tiring to swing, very effective. Compared to a Fiskars, splitting with a big old maul is like splitting with a heavy rock on a stick. Rick

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I've got a guestion for you Fiskar guys. I have thought about buying one of these for the hype but they are totally different from what I am accustomed to. I use a 16 lb Monster Maul that has a steel handle, have had it for 25 years, and love it. There is no such thing as sharpening it (it is a steel wedge with not edge). Everything I have read about mauls is that they should be dull, so as not to stick in the wood. My MM never gets stuck. Some guys intentionally hit rocks and dirt to dull new mauls. Look at Savage who has 27 cords of wood and says he only sharpened his maul once, and would never do it again. I don't get the sharpening.

Forget the hype.

Go pick up a 2.25lb Pro Splitting Axe. It'll set you back $50 or so, which seems like a lot but any other decently made single bit axe will be $35-$40. And $50 buys you not only a finely made and well engineered tool, it buys you a lifetime warrantee. And forget splitting with it. Just tell yourself that you want a handy, well made little axe.

After a bit curiosity will get the better of you and you'll swing that 2.25lb axe at a couple rounds of wood. From there one of 2 things will happen. 1) Best case scenario - You might discover the best splitting tool you've ever handled and that monster maul might get retired. 2) Worst case Scenario - It fails miserably and you don't like splitting with it in which case you still have a very handy little axe. Either way you win.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I've got a guestion for you Fiskar guys. I have thought about buying one of these for the hype but they are totally different from what I am accustomed to. I use a 16 lb Monster Maul that has a steel handle, have had it for 25 years, and love it. There is no such thing as sharpening it (it is a steel wedge with not edge). Everything I have read about mauls is that they should be dull, so as not to stick in the wood. My MM never gets stuck. Some guys intentionally hit rocks and dirt to dull new mauls. Look at Savage who has 27 cords of wood and says he only sharpened his maul once, and would never do it again. I don't get the sharpening.

Forget the hype.

Go pick up a 2.25lb Pro Splitting Axe. It'll set you back $50 or so, which seems like a lot but any other decently made single bit axe will be $35-$40. And $50 buys you not only a finely made and well engineered tool, it buys you a lifetime warrantee. And forget splitting with it. Just tell yourself that you want a handy, well made little axe.

After a bit curiosity will get the better of you and you'll swing that 2.25lb axe at a couple rounds of wood. From there one of 2 things will happen. 1) Best case scenario - You might discover the best splitting tool you've ever handled and that monster maul might get retired. 2) Worst case Scenario - It fails miserably and you don't like splitting with it in which case you still have a very handy little axe. Either way you win.

I guess the difference is that is a splitting axe versus a splitting maul. I am not sure I would be careful enough to not occassionally hit some dirt or a stone, so I am not sure I would be big on sharpening alot, since I never had to do that. One question I have is does the Fiskars get stuck. This was one of the most annoying things I found with axes. I sometimes found myself struggling to get the axe out the wood.

 

[peterc38]

I've got a guestion for you Fiskar guys. I have thought about buying one of these for the hype but they are totally different from what I am accustomed to. I use a 16 lb Monster Maul that has a steel handle, have had it for 25 years, and love it. There is no such thing as sharpening it (it is a steel wedge with not edge). Everything I have read about mauls is that they should be dull, so as not to stick in the wood. My MM never gets stuck. Some guys intentionally hit rocks and dirt to dull new mauls. Look at Savage who has 27 cords of wood and says he only sharpened his maul once, and would never do it again. I don't get the sharpening.

Forget the hype.

Go pick up a 2.25lb Pro Splitting Axe. It'll set you back $50 or so, which seems like a lot but any other decently made single bit axe will be $35-$40. And $50 buys you not only a finely made and well engineered tool, it buys you a lifetime warrantee. And forget splitting with it. Just tell yourself that you want a handy, well made little axe.

After a bit curiosity will get the better of you and you'll swing that 2.25lb axe at a couple rounds of wood. From there one of 2 things will happen. 1) Best case scenario - You might discover the best splitting tool you've ever handled and that monster maul might get retired. 2) Worst case Scenario - It fails miserably and you don't like splitting with it in which case you still have a very handy little axe. Either way you win.

I guess the difference is that is a splitting axe versus a splitting maul. I am not sure I would be careful enough to not occassionally hit some dirt or a stone, so I am not sure I would be big on sharpening alot, since I never had to do that. One question I have is does the Fiskars get stuck. This was one of the most annoying things I found with axes. I sometimes found myself struggling to get the axe out the wood.

Between the design and the non-stick coating it has (likely teflon or similar), it almost never gets stuck.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I've got a guestion for you Fiskar guys. I have thought about buying one of these for the hype but they are totally different from what I am accustomed to. I use a 16 lb Monster Maul that has a steel handle, have had it for 25 years, and love it. There is no such thing as sharpening it (it is a steel wedge with not edge). Everything I have read about mauls is that they should be dull, so as not to stick in the wood. My MM never gets stuck. Some guys intentionally hit rocks and dirt to dull new mauls. Look at Savage who has 27 cords of wood and says he only sharpened his maul once, and would never do it again. I don't get the sharpening.

Forget the hype.

Go pick up a 2.25lb Pro Splitting Axe. It'll set you back $50 or so, which seems like a lot but any other decently made single bit axe will be $35-$40. And $50 buys you not only a finely made and well engineered tool, it buys you a lifetime warrantee. And forget splitting with it. Just tell yourself that you want a handy, well made little axe.

After a bit curiosity will get the better of you and you'll swing that 2.25lb axe at a couple rounds of wood. From there one of 2 things will happen. 1) Best case scenario - You might discover the best splitting tool you've ever handled and that monster maul might get retired. 2) Worst case Scenario - It fails miserably and you don't like splitting with it in which case you still have a very handy little axe. Either way you win.

I guess the difference is that is a splitting axe versus a splitting maul. I am not sure I would be careful enough to not occassionally hit some dirt or a stone, so I am not sure I would be big on sharpening alot, since I never had to do that. One question I have is does the Fiskars get stuck. This was one of the most annoying things I found with axes. I sometimes found myself struggling to get the axe out the wood.

I've never sharpened mine and I'm not particularly careful with it.

As for getting "stuck". . . it will stick in wood but it's not difficult to unstick it. I've never had to give it anything more than a disinterested tap on the handle to free it.

 

[quads]

I guess the difference is that is a splitting axe versus a splitting maul. I am not sure I would be careful enough to not occassionally hit some dirt or a stone, so I am not sure I would be big on sharpening alot, since I never had to do that. One question I have is does the Fiskars get stuck. This was one of the most annoying things I found with axes. I sometimes found myself struggling to get the axe out the wood.

If you split your rounds out in the woods, on the ground = splitting maul (rock on a stick).

If you split your rounds at home, on a designated splitting block = splitting axe.

I've heard that they both split firewood just fine, but work best in different situations.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I guess the difference is that is a splitting axe versus a splitting maul. I am not sure I would be careful enough to not occassionally hit some dirt or a stone, so I am not sure I would be big on sharpening alot, since I never had to do that. One question I have is does the Fiskars get stuck. This was one of the most annoying things I found with axes. I sometimes found myself struggling to get the axe out the wood.

If you split your rounds out in the woods, on the ground = splitting maul (rock on a stick).

If you split your rounds at home, on a designated splitting block = splitting axe.

I've heard that they both split firewood just fine, but work best in different situations.

I split on a block with a maul most of my life.

I often have to split rounds in the woods (halved or quartered) and do this easily with my Fiskars.

Point is that for me it doesn't matter.

 

[quads]

I guess the difference is that is a splitting axe versus a splitting maul. I am not sure I would be careful enough to not occassionally hit some dirt or a stone, so I am not sure I would be big on sharpening alot, since I never had to do that. One question I have is does the Fiskars get stuck. This was one of the most annoying things I found with axes. I sometimes found myself struggling to get the axe out the wood.

If you split your rounds out in the woods, on the ground = splitting maul (rock on a stick).

If you split your rounds at home, on a designated splitting block = splitting axe.

I've heard that they both split firewood just fine, but work best in different situations.

I split on a block with a maul most of my life.

I often have to split rounds in the woods (halved or quartered) and do this easily with my Fiskars.

Point is that for me it doesn't matter.

That's wonderful! My mom used to say that daring to be different is what gives character. You have character.

 

[karri0n]

I haven't ever used a 6 lb or 8 lb maul. I have used a double bit axe for trying to split with. this was a complete failure. I then used the Fiskars to bust up about a cord of knotty red oak without much trouble at all. I used the Super splitter, and it definitely doesn't seem heavy.

As far as the sharpening goes - the edge on the fiskars is different than the edge on any other axe or maul. It's got a very thin taper, and it almost "cuts" the wood apart rather than busting it apart like a maul. Keeping a keen edge is not that important, though; I would skip the sharpener and get yourself a file for if the blade gets a knick from hi9tting something it shouldn't. The edge will still be plenty sharp with the amount of force you are applying.

 

[Skier76]

I just got a Super Splitter for my birthday...it's friggin' sweet.

How do you guys sharpen the blade outside of using the Fiskars sharpener? How do you take care of any nicks?