Flue Damper on Energy King Legacy 2150

[Typ0]

Newbie here. Got me a woodstove and some muddy wet wood and going to burn baby burn. Been a long process of reconstruction, making a hearth, putting in the chimey and just got a load of wood delievered yesterday. It's home burning and I'm worried about the house right at the moment--there go the human control issues again :D.

OK So I have been playing with fire a couple days now. What I noticed last night was I had a nice fire but didn't really get the heat I should. I have an 8" chimney reduced to 6" stovepipe and I think a very high percentage of heat is being sucked right out of my house. I can hear quite an airflow through there.

My first question: why am I reading never to operate your stove without the damper wide open?

This morning I damped it down a bit and think I got some heat in return! So what say you all knowing wood burning enthusiasts? I know not what I say or do me be virgin with a woodie. I work another day and then have two weeks off to be home and learn about the stove and wood I have. I want to heat my home with wood and be WARM and cozy!

 

[firefighterjake]

Damper in the flue . . . or "damper" on the stove?

Damper in the flue . . . most folks tend to not need this . . . except perhaps for very tall chimneys.

"Damper" on the stove . . . you most definitely want to close this down . . . allowing the air control to stay open allows more of the heat out the chimney which results in not as much heat in the home and shorter burns.

 

[Jags]

What are you burning in? Controls and methods change somewhat from stove to stove. I don't think I have ever seen a post (from an experienced burner) that suggests to always have the damper (assuming primary air controls) open. Or are we actually talking about a flue/stack damper?

 

[Typ0]

It's this stove from the epa list:

136
CRD Precision Fabricators
Inc. (Chippewa)
Energy King Legacy 2150
2.9
11800-34000
63
Non Catalytic


I'm talking about a damper I installed on the flue just above the stove opening. I didn't think I needed it either but when talking to someone at the hardware store he convinced me it would be a good idea to put it in. Quite honestly...I really don't get what it's for. Maybe there is too much air flowing through my stove I will have to take a look at that when I get home. There was a big bed of coals in there when I left and about 45 mins prior I threw in a couple of small splits. I want to do the load and go but am not ready for that yet--as a matter of fact I'm kinda concerned my house is burning down as we speak LOL.

 

[Jags]

Ahhh...flue damper. Most EPA stoves and installs don't really need to have one. Once in awhile they are useful in the case of an extra tall chimney or weird drafting situation. That said - unless you have a "need" it should be open during your burning. You should be using the primary air controls to actually run the stove.

 

[Huntindog1]

These stoves are design to operate better from full loads. Some coals and a couple pieces leaves you with alot of open space in the stove.
A full load has only a small space left up by the secondary air tubes or air manifold where the preheated secondary air enters the fire box and ignites the smoke gases. If you not using good dry wood as 20% moisture or less then you might not be getting secondary light off and loosing alot of heat production.
If your not able to close your input air down as your wood is suspect quality and has too much moisture you will be seeing flames in the stove with extra air but alot of your heat is flushed up the flue. Dry wood will let you burn at a very low input air setting and get those secondary flame going up in the top of the stove then the heat production is much higher.

 

[Typ0]

Thanks a lot for the responses. Unfortunately I am just getting started and have to work with less that optimal wood. I'm going to get double the amount I need for the season and hopefully in a couple years I'll be in good shape but this is what I have to work with right now. That being said, if the damper on the flue helps the heat output of the stove shouldn't I use it? What can go wrong ???

 

[Jags]

What can go wrong ???

Wet wood contains lots of water (obvious), what may not be obvious is what that does for the burn cycle. Wood doesn't burn until the water is gone - this results in slow take off and low temps for an extended period creating a potential creosote factory. Depending on how it is used a damper could INCREASE the opportunity for creosote production. Using it too early in the burn phase or dampening it too much will be BAD. Slowing down the exhaust of cooler than normal (or cooler than required) gasses is gonna bring some very negative results.

 

[Typ0]

So basically people seem to be saying I should shut the stove down for a couple years. Darn, I was really hoping to be able to use it even though I understand I need to make an investment in the process of burning wood.

 

[begreen]

Without good wood your first year will be a challenge. If you can get some ash wood that was split in spring you may be ok, but it will probably be hard to get. It's easier to find kiln dried wood in some locales. And occasionally professional wood sellers will have their firewood stored in a large pole barn or shed. They are about the only ones to trust advertising the wood as seasoned. It's worth asking around. Or buy a quality compressed wood product like BioBricks ECOBricks, HomeFire Prest-Logs, etc..

A quick internet search in central NY shows TreeLanders sells kiln dried wood:
Tree Landers, 6429 Vanburen Rd., Syracuse, 484-0276

 

[Jags]

So basically people seem to be saying I should shut the stove down for a couple years.

No - not trying to do that. Just trying to make you aware of what comes with burning wet wood. And a damper in the system combined with wet wood could even make things worse.

 

[Huntindog1]

If your wood is subpar try splitting it one more time. Let a load for next load up of your stove sit by your stove while the previous load burns for 8 hours.
On starts up your gonna have to use kindling and a good fire starter. As the faster you can get your fire box heated up your gonna help over come some of that moisture in the stove. Have a good bed of coals is a must also and add to that the kindling and good fire starter. Its all about the heat in the firebox to get those secondary flames in the top of the stove.

I am going to tell you about an issue I had running 6" pipe to a larger flue like you say you have.
I found much better operation by putting an adapter right on top of the 6 inch outlet of the stove and running 8" Pipe all the way to my larger
masonry flue. I switched back once and again I was having trouble so I am sure it helps.

Look close at my pic of my stove and you will see my adapter is right on top of the stove.

 

[claydogg84]

I would recomended picking up a Moisture Meter to see how wet the wood actually is. Then, if you don't have one already, a stovetop thermometer. These 2 tools will help to set you on the right path for sure. I've found with my stove, wet wood is nearly impossible to burn correctly and is more of a hassle than a reliable heat source. Like others have said, you shouldn't need to use the pipe damper.

 

[Huntindog1]

Here ya go:

 

[Typ0]

Here ya go:

View attachment 147900

That's too funny! I had a tough time finding info on this stove ... but I was able to get a manual

If your wood is subpar try splitting it one more time. Let a load for next load up of your stove sit by your stove while the previous load burns for 8 hours.
On starts up your gonna have to use kindling and a good fire starter. As the faster you can get your fire box heated up your gonna help over come some of that moisture in the stove. Have a good bed of coals is a must also and add to that the kindling and good fire starter. Its all about the heat in the firebox to get those secondary flames in the top of the stove.

I am going to tell you about an issue I had running 6" pipe to a larger flue like you say you have.
I found much better operation by putting an adapter right on top of the 6 inch outlet of the stove and running 8" Pipe all the way to my larger
masonry flue. I switched back once and again I was having trouble so I am sure it helps.

Look close at my pic of my stove and you will see my adapter is right on top of the stove.

I don't think the wood is unworkable. Less than optimal but it lights and burns. It must have been cut and split 4 - 6 months. I threw it in and it lit up I was like OK cool...but there did seem to be less heat and I wondered if the moisture content of the wood had something to do with it. I also had brought those pieces in just an hour earlier from the outside. I have some sitting by the stove and will rotate making sure everything burned gets at least 24 maybe 48 hours in a warm location just to dry out surface moisture which there was a lot of yesterday. Also, the wood is dirty some of it even quite muddy...I know dirt is going to slow things down LOL. I'll brush it off before going in but yesterday I was playing to try and see what kind of system I was going to need....

Really, I think I'm going to be OK with this. Not perfect but workable for the winter while I try and learn and get in front of the game. I just want to get the heat into my home not going up my chimney!

What you say about the pipe makes perfect sense to me....the people at the hardware store said it didn't matter and I wasn't prepared to argue with them...but the physics of the whole thing would indicate not having the flue diameter shift. I have the reducer right at the bottom of the chimney ... I will bet before I start next winter I replace all the flue pipe it's not that much of an expense and I will know more than....

 

[Huntindog1]

Good to hear you got a manual as I found one. I will go ahead and post for anyone else who might have a used stove like this.

 

[Woody Stover]

With wood that's not real dry, and the chimney bigger than the flue outlet size, you'll need to keep a close eye on the chimney until you know what to expect as far as creosote build-up. I would check it once a month at the very least, and brush if needed. That's the benefits of a liner all the way up; Much easier to sweep it out and you won't have to do it as often, once you have dry wood.

 

[Typ0]

I don't want to burn my house down! I do want to engage in this process. Always wanted to do this and am excited. I appreciate everyone's input!

 

[begreen]

You'll do ok, just be patient and keep trying. Wood burning is part art. Every fire is different. It takes practice, especially if the wood is not ideal. Burning dry wood in a proper, safe install, with good burning habits and good maintenance will reward you with a pleasurable experience.

 

[Typ0]

Thank you. I got home to find my house still standing and some hot coals in the stove despite my not having loaded it on the way out...so I think that was good. Stopped at Lowes and got a moisture meter the wood reads 25%. I got some fancy new fandagled IR Heat Seeker thing and pointed it at my stove it came up W.T. I looked it up and it said Witches teat. Then my furnace kicked on . Damn!

 

[kennyp2339]

Typ0 - did you 1st split the wood and then test the fresh faced split with the meter? how's the glass looking on the stove, its ok for it to get a little dirty but it should NOT look like shut out black tinted window like my first car as a teenager..(lol)If off also the next two weeks so if you get jammed up just send out a message. (I walked in your shoes 2 seasons ago) if you get real jammed out with bad wood remember that tractor supply or a lumber yard sells compressed wood blocks (bio bricks) you can either burn them exclusively or mix them with your wood to give it a boost. just make sure what ever you settle on if you go that route that is does not have a wax binder in it. Good luck and stay warm

 

[Typ0]

Typ0 - did you 1st split the wood and then test the fresh faced split with the meter? how's the glass looking on the stove, its ok for it to get a little dirty but it should NOT look like shut out black tinted window like my first car as a teenager..(lol)If off also the next two weeks so if you get jammed up just send out a message. (I walked in your shoes 2 seasons ago) if you get real jammed out with bad wood remember that tractor supply or a lumber yard sells compressed wood blocks (bio bricks) you can either burn them exclusively or mix them with your wood to give it a boost. just make sure what ever you settle on if you go that route that is does not have a wax binder in it. Good luck and stay warm

nope! I tested the already split piece....so I guess it's probably more like 70%! I'm really screwed anyway ... both the wood pro's I know said to keep snow off the wood and I got 6 cords in the driveway that got a light dusting of snow last night...and it's snowing again! LOL.

The lower corners of the windows have developed some black but those are the only spots I can't see through at this point. I only tried to burn this wood last night though I had some smaller stuff in the yard since July that I have burned a few days. I'm not complaining I know it's a process and I needed wood so I got some at a decent price. I would pay more for better seasoned wood I'm going to look around for some. What I really need is knowledge and that is what I am working on ...

 

[Typ0]

oh I also need an axe. I was kind of in a hurry to get home and it's christmas week so I am hoping to not purchase one until after xmas. I'm going to try some of those logs I saw some on sale at the truevalue and never even thought of the mixing thing....I need something to get me through with my two little kids here and we can all be warm. I'll fight with fires and learning when they are gone.

 

[Typ0]

nevver mind the truevalue comment I just read what they are and it scared me.

 

[begreen]

If the logs are wax impregnated like DuraFlames, don't use them in a wood stove. If there are no additives, just compressed sawdust, then they are ok. The more highly compressed the better. Use only 1-2 at one time until you get used to burning them.