Flue pipe

[Chris H]

I currently have a us stove 2007b. I am wanting to upgrade to an englander 30 nc. I have 15 ft of single wall flue pipe that has two 45 degree turns then exits house. Manual for the engrander states I can't have more than10 ft.

My question is can i get away with the extra 5 feet without having to buy more double wall pipe?...chimney on outside I'd double walled going up 20 or so feet and is 6 feet above roof..

 

[CheapBassTurd]

That's a LOT of cubic air above the stove. Got a ceiling fan?

I don't know the piping laws, but was quite impressed with the room.

 

[begreen]

Double wall stove pipe is not the same as double-wall chimney pipe. It will help keep the flue gases hotter in that long pipe run and thus should keep the flue system cleaner.

 

[kennyp2339]

If changing the single wall out to double wall the clearance to combustibles goes from 18" to 6", I'd lose the T clean out on the bottom of the stove, push the stove further back (watch clearance on the new stove) and go up with the new pipe using the same concept of (2) 45's into the through the wall kit. I would also look into more pipe bracing , even if you have to buy and paint it black.
That's a pretty tall flue, I would look into the magnet trick to slow the air intake down if the draft is to much.

 

[bholler]

How do you clean out the horizontal section up there? If that was mine I would change it out to through the roof instead of the wall.

 

[Chris H]

That's a LOT of cubic air above the stove. Got a ceiling fan?

I don't know the piping laws, but was quite impressed with the room.

Hi..thank you...yes I have 3 ceiling fans. The vaulted ceiling is roughly 25 feet up. I don't use the stove for primary heat but it helps cut down the electric bill!...

 

[Chris H]

Double wall stove pipe is not the same as double-wall chimney pipe. It will help keep the flue gases hotter in that long pipe run and thus should keep the flue system cleaner.

Begreen..thank you for pointing that out.I am very new to wood heating and did not realize the difference between double walled flue and chimney pipe. I am definitely going to get the double walled pipe

 

[Chris H]

If changing the single wall out to double wall the clearance to combustibles goes from 18" to 6", I'd lose the T clean out on the bottom of the stove, push the stove further back (watch clearance on the new stove) and go up with the new pipe using the same concept of (2) 45's into the through the wall kit. I would also look into more pipe bracing , even if you have to buy and paint it black.
That's a pretty tall flue, I would look into the magnet trick to slow the air intake down if the draft is to much.

I totally agree....don't need the clean out...not sure where the new stove will sit on the pad..I'll adjust the new pipe accordingly. I've never heard of the magnet trick....can you elaborate?

 

[begreen]

Double-wall stove pipe will be painted black so the look will be the same. The stove may need an adapter section to fit the flue collar. It varies with the stove. Our stove did not need an adapter. With that long run you may want to add a butterfly damper in the stove pipe for better control in cold weather.

 

[begreen]

I totally agree....don't need the clean out...not sure where the new stove will sit on the pad..I'll adjust the new pipe accordingly. I've never heard of the magnet trick....can you elaborate?

IIRC the 30NC gets its boost air from small air inlets in the front corners at the top of the legs. Putting a small magnet over these inlets helps improve air control for the fire in cases of strong draft.

 

[Chris H]

How do you clean out the horizontal section up there? If that was mine I would change it out to through the roof instead of the wall.

 

[Chris H]

My buddy has a bucket truck we use. Was once scared of heights but not now! I use a flexible rod and brush. Takes 2 people to get it done. One in bucket truck up high and another inside house

 

[Chris H]

Double-wall stove pipe will be painted black so the look will be the same. The stove may need an adapter section to fit the flue collar. It varies with the stove. Our stove did not need an adapter. With that long run you may want to add a butterfly damper in the stove pipe for better control in cold weather.

Was wondering about that..manual on the englander says a damper should not be used...if there is one already I'm supposed to lock it in open position....I live in missouri on top of a hill and tell wind can get gusty!

 

[Chris H]

Meant the wind..sorry..trying to reply on these smart phones is a pain!

 

[BrotherBart]

I am the guy that introduced the magnets on the boost air holes in the 30-NC. Works a treat to regulate the air blasting into the load. Also I have a 23 foot liner on it and get a lot of wind regularly in the winter and haven't needed a key damper for it. For 10 years now.

 

[begreen]

How tall is this total? 35 ft?

 

[Chris H]

How tall is this total? 35 ft?

I would say at least....from current stove to run through wall is 15 ft....the chimney is 20 or more...can't remember the exact measures....

 

[begreen]

I would definitely have a stovepipe damper for that setup.

 

[Chris H]

My wife was saying that last year.....will a damper mess with the engrander since manual says don't use one?..I will do what you experts recommend...that's why I am here.....thank you all for your assistance!

 

[Chris H]

Dang phone..englander!

 

[bholler]

My wife was saying that last year.....will a damper mess with the engrander since manual says don't use one?..I will do what you experts recommend...that's why I am here.....thank you all for your assistance!

No your stack is way higher than what they test them on you will probably have excessive draft and need to shut it down more.

 

[Chris H]

One other question I have is what do you all think of the englander 30 nc?....I have read most of the forums on it and it seems like a very solid stove for the price...don't need it as primary heat source....but don't want the geothermal kicking on alot....the wife wants the fire to slow burn overnight so it's easier to get going at 6 am

 

[Chris H]

No your stack is way higher than what they test them on you will probably have excessive draft and need to shut it down more.

Thank you bholler....I will put in damper

 

[begreen]

One other question I have is what do you all think of the englander 30 nc?....I have read most of the forums on it and it seems like a very solid stove for the price...don't need it as primary heat source....but don't want the geothermal kicking on alot....the wife wants the fire to slow burn overnight so it's easier to get going at 6 am

The 30NC is a great value stove. Read up on past threads to learn how to achieve longer burns with this stove. There are many with BrotherBart pioneering the way. He was the first to close off the boost air. You don't need this if the wood is dry and draft is strong.

 

[Chris H]

The 30NC is a great value stove. Read up on past threads to learn how to achieve longer burns with this stove. There are many with BrotherBart pioneering the way. He was the first to close off the boost air. You don't need this if the wood is dry and draft is strong.

Thank you begreen....I love this site!