I was thinking about this when pondering a kuuma furnace in my shop. It would be an extremely functional upgrade but no window to view flames at all. I would have to do something besides stare at the fire!Thanks. Yes, probably enough for two chairs but unfortunately it might be kind of boring.
Thanks for the flooring idea. I did happen to think about getting air under the tank to prevent mold in case moisture accumulated. I'll defiantly be getting some of this. I was going to add 2" of ridgid foam board under the tank as well.I use old school honeywell auqastats for my high temp cut off on the tank. That is the style with the sensing bulb attached to the control box with thin copper tube. Old school but it works. To actually see the temp of the tank I just have a thermocouple stuck down the same vent pipe as the sensing bulb hooked up to my fluke.
I did pick up some cheap chinese temperature controler with digital readouts on Ebay that have a fairly large display they will read most types of thermocouples and thermisters i havent gotten around to installing them. I wouldnt trust them to control anything but if the displays work they are cheaper than buying a digital display.
I did have some spare thermocouple wire when I installed the tank and set a thermocouple in the tank wall behind the liner at the bottom middle and top just for the chuckles. They all terminate with thermcouple plugs so I can plug them into the Fluke.
One thing I did do different than ASTs installation is I put dricore under the tank. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DRIcore-7-8-in-x-2-ft-x-2-ft-DRIcore-Subfloor-Panel-CDGNUS750024024/202268752 I just wanted to make sure that air could get underneath if water somehow got in there.
Ever have problems with those?Maybe a little late for monitoring input. This is the monitoring panel I built for a Froling. Digital panel meters (except flue) with DS18b20 sensors are readily available on Ebay. Cat5 cable for the wiring. Flue panel meter has a type K sensor. Top row is storage tank top, middle and bottom. Middle row is boiler supply, boiler return, and flue. Bottom row is system supply to storage and system return to storage.
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I occasionally also had this experience with two of about 30 digital displays I have in service on four display panels. All the panels have been in service for more than five years. I found that if I disconnected and then reconnected the wire to the meter the problem was solved. I had to extend the cable from the meter to the sensor with Cat5, and I twisted and soldered all splices. I didn't use the two display option, as I found this to be distracting.I have two that are wonky most times. Mine alternate between 2 sensors, and one of them gets stuck on 185. That's happening in 2 guages.
No, the wall is not load bearing.Did you forget the jack studs on that window?
No, not yet. That same block off plate came installed on the opposite side of the boiler but was moved to this side. I never reinstalled it on the original side to see if maybe the bolt holes were off on the plate but it appears to be from the nuts that are welded onto the boiler jacket. Not much the dealer can do do me unfortunately.Did you contact the vendor or company about that sloppy door? That is pretty disappointing looking. Otherwise - looking good!
The instructions get quite vague at this point also. It tells you where to hook the plugs into on the controller but it doesn't give all the instructions to install the knock-out panel. That's just one example. It also doesn't include instructions on how the BLT controller interfaces with the boiler control. They leave a lot to be desired for the DIY guys like myself. I'm getting there though.Screw the wood work... That wire connection block looks like a PITA. Why can't they give a cabinet style block from the factory? Make it big with room to move around with. Code is 6" free wire last I knew. I was down to 2" using freaking pliers. Thank God I was using EMT and stuffed the extra back in to the boxes.
I'd like to know more about it, did you have a build thread to point me to? I'll have to check but believe my FHG can display all those parameters if I toggle the display.Maybe a little late for monitoring input. This is the monitoring panel I built for a Froling. Digital panel meters (except flue) with DS18b20 sensors are readily available on Ebay. Cat5 cable for the wiring. Flue panel meter has a type K sensor. Top row is storage tank top, middle and bottom. Middle row is boiler supply, boiler return, and flue. Bottom row is system supply to storage and system return to storage.
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Can you take a picture of the back of your boiler for me? I feel like there should be a small square plate in the upper corners for the wires to exit/enter. Instead, it just appears to be an open hole... thanks.
Toggling through a display is OK. I like a display that in a glance lets me see all of the parameters which are important or most informative. That's why I did the display panel for the Froling. Easy to find these panel meters by searching in Ebay or Amazon or otherwise "ds18b20 temperature sensor meter" or similar search.I'll have to check but believe my FHG can display all those parameters if I toggle the display.
Right on. Not sure how it is all connected, that's why I was asking about a thread.Toggling through a display is OK. I like a display that in a glance lets me see all of the parameters which are important or most informative. That's why I did the display panel for the Froling. Easy to find these panel meters by searching in Ebay or Amazon or otherwise "ds18b20 temperature sensor meter" or similar search.
That's what I did - just taped a piece of pipe insulation over the sensors. I have the same gauges. I got the dual display ones - two sensors for one gauge. Which alternate back & forth every couple seconds or so. I just got some big cheap hinged electrical boxes for mine and cut out holes the right size. Which was a bit of a PITA. I think I drilled the corners of the holes then used a jig saw. Have to be careful on cutting the holes out - too small & gauges won't quite go in far enough to click in place, too big and they won't stay put. But the hinged door was good for getting them mounted & wired & the mess of wires hidden away. Four gauges per box - the second box I never did get finished. Too many distractions...I searched "ds18b20" and variations and found the probe with a display. Did you build the red box? How did you connect the probes on the supply and return temp, tape the probe to the pipe and insulate it?