Froling Add-on Install

Marshy Posted By Marshy, Oct 4, 2017 at 9:15 AM

  1. jebatty

    jebatty
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    Jan 1, 2008
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    For the Froling display, I had the sheet metal cover, found a box that it would fit, cut out the openings for the meters, painted the cover red to match the Froling, and then used stick-on lettering.

    Data recording can be useful, especially to spot and diagnose any anomaly. I also use DS18b20 sensors to do this. My latest foray into temperature data recording is with a Raspberry Pi computer running a Python program. I did the programming myself, using available programs in Python and then modifying them to do what I wanted. The RPi can handle multiple sensors and with the Python program can be customized and is very flexible. I am hoping this winter, when I have more spare time, to add programming for control (off-on) of devices, like circulators, valves, fans, etc.
     
  2. Chris Hoskin

    Chris Hoskin
    TarmSalesGuy 2.
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    Aug 29, 2008
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    One disappointment was the fit of the clean out block plate opposite of the clean out door. Must be the welded on nuts are skewed.
    View attachment 216620

    seems like the left hand mounting bolt must not be engaged properly with the nut behind it? Somethings not right here, can you take another look? As you say, the nuts are welded to the door frame / port and the frame is welded to the boiler. Try loosening the two on the right so that you can adjust the plate/insulation block square to the boiler. Once you have all three bolts started, you should be able to push the assembly against the boiler so that it is flush and then tighten all three screws. This is a gasketed seal and it is important because the exhaust gasses travel back there. Let me know.
     
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  3. Marshy

    Marshy
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    Dec 29, 2016
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    I will take a second look. The gasket appears to be making contact all the way around. I will attempt to rectify let you know. Thanks for your support.

    By the way, I installed the overheat aquastat in the boiler jacket with the provided well but after reading the Honeywell instructions included with the aquastat they show the bulb being held into the well with either a retainer clamp or compression fitting. Neither was provided. Is it acceptable to just push the bulb into the well?
     
  4. Chris Hoskin

    Chris Hoskin
    TarmSalesGuy 2.
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    Aug 29, 2008
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    just make sure the sensor is well down in the well and you be fine. Well, well, well!
     
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  5. Marshy

    Marshy
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    Dec 29, 2016
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    I have some general hardware questions for you guys that have plumbed your boiler. I'm ordering my tubing, fittings and valves. The plumbing layout provided by Froling say to use weighted swing check valves. While searching Grangers and supply house I cannot find any that are weighted swing check valves, only spring loaded in-line check valves...

    Is the in-line spring loaded check ok to use?


    Second question is about air removal. I was going to go with the Amtrol Expansion tank with air purged and vent. I already have this setup coming out of my oil boiler and will add this to the outlet of the wood boiler. Is this sufficient for air removal of should i use an air purge thst has a coalescing element to scrub air?

    @Chris Hoskin, thoughts?

    Screenshot_20171207-170959.png
    Screenshot_20171207-171047.png

    Amtrol with purge and vent. Screenshot_20171207-171819.png

    Air eliminator only.
    Screenshot_20171207-171736.png
     
  6. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Aug 21, 2013
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    McMaster Carr has swing checks...
     
  7. Marshy

    Marshy
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    Dec 29, 2016
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    Weighted?
    Never thought of checking them for prices. Thanks.

    Refresh for edited post and second question above.
     
  8. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Aug 21, 2013
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    I personally have never seen a small weighted check...3-4" and up is my experience...maybe they exist though, IDK...
    This is what I'm familiar with as a weighted check valve...
    upload_2017-12-7_17-37-54.jpeg
     
  9. Marshy

    Marshy
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    Dec 29, 2016
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    Me too. I worked on a 42" anchor darling tilted seat swinging disk check before. I have little residential experience beyond hooking up a water heater. That's why I was asking about the in-line spring check.
     
  10. peakbagger

    peakbagger
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    Jul 11, 2008
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    I think they mean one of these

    https://www.pexuniverse.com/taco-219-4-flo-check-valve
     
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  11. Fred61

    Fred61
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  12. maple1

    maple1
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    I just used ordinary swing check valves like in the pic above the expansion tank above. No issues 5+ years later. I think I was warned about possible chattering but haven't heard any of that. I actually took the flapper out of one and drilled a small hole in it to let a bit of water past when heating from backup. Just to maintain my storage temps a bit and also cut down on short cycling of my backup boiler. And I also used just an ordinary air vent like it sounds like what you say you already have. Not much fancy stuff on the supplier shelves here.
     
  13. Marshy

    Marshy
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    Dec 29, 2016
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    Thanks guys. @Fred61, I'll probably avoid the watts check valve because it will cost about twice as much as the one I posted above after I buy the NPT to C adapter to sweat it in line.

    @maple1, I do already have an Amtrol like in the picture above. It's at the outlet of my oil boiler but I need one at the outlet of the wood boiler as well. Maybe not with fill capability because the other one will fill when water is circulated to the heating zones but I do need expansion capability in the wood boiler loop.
     
  14. nhtreehouse

    nhtreehouse
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    Feb 11, 2017
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    All the literature suggests a minimum of 12 pipe diameters straight run before the swing check. I'm working on piping right now and things are a bit tight, space wise. Any idea how long your straight run is before the swing check? I might be able to get 12D, but I'll likely have a full port ball valve in there. Piping seems like a huge compromise every way one looks at it.
     
  15. Marshy

    Marshy
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    Since @maple1 didn't reply I'll give you my opinion. A full port ball valve wind make much turbulence and if you can get 10 pipe diameters instead of 12 you'll still be fine.
     
  16. maple1

    maple1
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    Missed your question. I just looked. I only have 3" in front of one and 5" in front of the other. Had no idea about the 12x talk when I put this stuff together, but haven't seen any ill effects.
     
  17. Marshy

    Marshy
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    Dec 29, 2016
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    Ok, I've been dragging my feet long enough. I searched high and low looking for the best deals on copper and fittings and trying to figure out how this all gets plumbed together. It was a close tie but I chose to go with SupplyHouse.com over coppertubingsales.com

    When it came down to it, it was within $20 for the common parts at each store. The cavet was supply house doesn't sell copper tubing and the other site did so I use my local hardware store prices to supliment the tubing in my cost comparison. Even though supply house was only about $20 higher, I still needed some more things from supply house so I went with one stop shopping.

    Thst being said, I bought everything I think I needed minus the tubing and it was $500. EEK.
    Plus someone gave me about $60 in fittings for free. Also, I still need about 40' of 1-1/4" type M tubing which is $42/10' locally.

    More to follow. While I'm waiting for the copper to come in I'll start tallying up all the other expenses made thus far. So begins the sulking also. Let there be bourbon I say.
     
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  18. maple1

    maple1
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    I would maybe suggest not tallying anything until perhaps 2 years from now - it won't sting QUITE as bad.

    Also, there were at least 10 times through my build when I said 'there, I have everything I need now'. Only to find myself running back to the supplier the next day.
     
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  19. peakbagger

    peakbagger
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    I must admit, if I am doing a big piping project, I visit home depot and buy more fittings than I need then return the ones I dont use. I make sure they are kept in good condition and they do end with a pretty good net sale.
     
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  20. Marshy

    Marshy
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    Dec 29, 2016
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    They don't have crap for 1-1/4" fittings beyond an elbow. What they did have is twice as much as you can buy them for online. Lowes 1-1/4" elbow CxC is $7.04, supply house has them for $2.90. When you need 10 or 12 fittings that kind of mark up gets ridiculous. I mapped every thing out on paper and bought what I unlink I need. If I'm one or two short I'm run to town and get a few fittings but that's it. Normal retail is outrageous.
     

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