Froling Add-on Install

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HA! That was meant to say:

Im not trying to be abrasive. I honestly don't know the answers to the questions I asked.

I agree the spirotherm is a superior product but it's also pricy, especially the one with the dirt separator...

What I do know is entrained air/oxygen causes corrosion on the steel/iron components, can cause cavitation at the pump and erosion of the pump internals, it reduces heat transfer and can be a source of noise in the pipes.

If the difference is 99% air removal vs 99.9% with the better separator then it's probably not worth it. (Hypothetically speaking because I don't know how effective the scoops are.)
 
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34 solder joints for the day. That might not seem very impressive to some but when you consider I don't have a fitting brush and have been cleaning all the fitting with plumbers tape, it's time consuming!
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I should have bought a few 1-1/4" brushes, I feel like it would be quicker. I'd use the tape first then the brush for those areas at the bottom of the cup and any flaws where the tape doesn't get good. I'll have a better grip when this is through lol.
 
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Today has been a snow day so far. Just had to catch up with the winter chores before we get more snow. I shoveled my ridge vents on the house, a small deck so it don't collapse, brought in firewood and did some snowblowing. Went to plow and tractor wouldn't start, battery was too cold so I remove it and carried back to the house from the barn down in the field. I'm pooped.
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Your fingers sore? With anything over 1inch I prefer the tape, think it does a better job. Looks nice

I’ve watched the plumbers at our refit facility sweat copper, when the copper is all new and shiney they don’t clean it . I couldn’t do that on my own plumbing but I’ve seen their copper work last yrs. with no issues. Looking good by the way. At least you don’t need a 120 gals of expansion tank .
 
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Yikes, not a risk I'm willing to take. They do make self cleaning flux but I also read it's not 100%. I've spent a lot of time cleaning the fittings. It's taken a lot longer than I imagined. That's what happens when you have no experience lol.

Overall I have a lot to do still. Im about to get the htx plumbed, I have all the piping on the hot supply after the zone valve mocked up. I still have the return from the zones to mock up, all the way back the the diverter valve, and a recirc loop between the supply header and return header. Gotta run the wired to the circulator and run 240 power to the boiler. Still habe the tank liner to install and fill with water. I'm working on copper tonight and putting the chimney in tomorrow. Then fixing a power steering leak on Sunday. Other than the whoke family being sick im just peachy. Fug me.
 
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Yikes, not a risk I'm willing to take. They do make self cleaning flux but I also read it's not 100%. I've spent a lot of time cleaning the fittings. It's taken a lot longer than I imagined. That's what happens when you have no experience lol.

Overall I have a lot to do still. Im about to get the htx plumbed, I have all the piping on the hot supply after the zone valve mocked up. I still have the return from the zones to mock up, all the way back the the diverter valve, and a recirc loop between the supply header and return header. Gotta run the wired to the circulator and run 240 power to the boiler. Still habe the tank liner to install and fill with water. I'm working on copper tonight and putting the chimney in tomorrow. Then fixing a power steering leak on Sunday. Other than the whoke family being sick im just peachy. Fug me.

I thought you guys down there used some sort of step down transformer to use 120v to the boiler?
 
I thought you guys down there used some sort of step down transformer to use 120v to the boiler?
The boiler main power is 240v and 120v out to the circulators. No transformer.
 
holy snowfall Batman! !!! I wish we could get that where I'm at.

As far as cleaning copper pipes and fittings i use red scotch brite pads. It works amazing. Clean the fitting then wipe the dust off with a rag and good to go.

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Question about chimney roof flashing... I have a metal roof that I'll beer installing my Selkirk through and I have a universal adjustible roof flashing but I'll wondering if this can be used in the ribbed metal roofs?

Flashing:
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Metal roof:
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I would lap the top edge of the flashing with another sheet right? The flashing is going to ride in top of the ridges and make an awkward gap.

Any advice or better products?

Maybe something like this but larger?
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@bholler
 
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Yeah that won't work out very well at all...I have seen rubber (silicone) ones that stick onto a metal roof, like your second one there...but I think I recall bholler and the other pros saying they don't like them. Someone posted about one version that is made to match the contour of the roof...I can't remember if those were preferred or not...guess I'm not much help...I'll see if I can find the discussion that I'm referring to...I think it was in the main stove forum.
 
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I actually have a local fireplace installer in town that I just stopped at and asked what they use. They said they have a dead soft flashing kit that can be formed to the ridges just like the boots. Unfortunately they want $127! Eek. I can get the silicon boot for $50.
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There only 1-1.5' above the penetration to the side of the house so ice/snow sliding into the chimney is low.
 
There only 1-1.5' above the penetration to the side of the house so ice/snow sliding into the chimney is low.
Boy, that close the the "top" of the roof I'd be temped to use the standard kit and just lay a second layer of the metal roof panel over top the chimney flashing right up to the wall
 
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Boy, that close the the "top" of the roof I'd be temped to use the standard kit and just lay a second layer of the metal roof panel over top the chimney flashing right up to the wall
I believe it would make it. I also have some end wall flashing that will reach out 6" from the wall. I was thinking I needed to lap it with another sheet but maybe not. I'll look closer.
 
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Damn, I'm a few inches short... but I just remembered I have a crap load of extra flat flashing. I can make a piece of end wall with as much reach from the wall as I want. I think I'm all set. Just a little nervous about cutting a hole in the roof and getting it all sealed.


18" from the upper wall is the marking for the top of the hole which includes the 2" to combustible.
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And just setting the flashing here, guessing on location.
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Thanks for the advice. Sometimes the answer is right in front of you and needs pointing out.
 
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I built my own flashing for my boiler shed you could do what i did with that flashing in your picture. It would require a box and pan break to bend the edges though.

I bent the edges down on a piece of aluminum and welded the corners. Corners could be bolted, screwed, or use adhesive if bent right. Then i notched out around the ridges of the metal roofing.

Here's mine. Heavy...duty!

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Nice work Marshy! How many square feet are you going to be heating with that nice boiler and tank? And how many BTU boiler is that?
 
I built my own flashing for my boiler shed you could do what i did with that flashing in your picture. It would require a box and pan break to bend the edges though.

I bent the edges down on a piece of aluminum and welded the corners. Corners could be bolted, screwed, or use adhesive if bent right. Then i notched out around the ridges of the metal roofing.

Here's mine. Heavy...duty!

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That is some quality work there. I think I can guess what you do for a profession. Nice.

Nice work Marshy! How many square feet are you going to be heating with that nice boiler and tank? And how many BTU boiler is that?

It's a 102,500 btu/hr boiler, Forling FHG 30. I have a ranch house, 1850 sqft main floor and a full basement, unfinished at this time.

Getting late but getting closer. Just want it water tight.
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Here is without the flashing. I'm trying to get it all tucked into bed before the rain and snow come tomorrow. Been at it since lunch. Slow going. Once the flashing is on the remaining 12' will pop right on and get anchored to the 2x4 above and a couple more wall supports above. The cathedral brackets by Selkirk are rugged. I put 8' of pipe together and plumbed it then locked it in place so all the up front work is done.
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