I have a P-75 Freestanding that I just had to replace the auger motor. Found a new one at Graingers. Looks to be a exact replacement. Hooked it all up and now it seems like it wont keep running. The motor is working and turning the auger. Just seems like it is not dropping pellets very often. Any ideas on the problem? It looks like it is using up pellets but they just don't seem to drop.
Glo King P-75 Not feeding and keeping burning
- Thread starter bchutchens
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SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
bchutchens said:
Do you have a way of priming the auger?
If the auger flight has been emptied of pellets it can take a while to fill and drop pellets and you may have a loose connection between the auger and the motor, or a plugged or partially plugged vacuum line.
Also did you match up the motors RPMs it makes a difference on how much fuel is delivered during the auger on time.
Not sure about the plugged or partially plugged vacuum line. And not sure about the RPMs, Graingers looked at the old motor and said it was a match.
If your old auger was a 3 RPM and you got a 1 RPM, its gonna feed 2/3 less fuel than before.
I dont know the specific's of your stove. But the RPM must be matched. If you dont know. Then you should definitely find out.
I dont know the specific's of your stove. But the RPM must be matched. If you dont know. Then you should definitely find out.
It looks like the new one is 1rpm. The new one is a Dayton 1LNG2A and the old one is a Dayton 2L001A. I'm just not sure.
Looks like the rpm's is the same, but the hp is a little different. One is 1/80 new and old is 1/100
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
It is the rpm that counts. Locate the vacuum line and disconnect it from the vacuum switch, blow through the vacuum line towards the stove. If it blows free and clear check for cracks or splits and that the end that attaches to the stove is on tight, reconnect the end you disconnected.
If the vacuum line doesn't blow free and clear, disconnect it at the stove end and clean the line out, then use a paper clip and clean out the barb you removed the stove end of the line from. Reconnect both ends and retry your stove. A partially blocked vacuum line can decrease the pellet flow by interrupting power to the auger motor.
If the vacuum line doesn't blow free and clear, disconnect it at the stove end and clean the line out, then use a paper clip and clean out the barb you removed the stove end of the line from. Reconnect both ends and retry your stove. A partially blocked vacuum line can decrease the pellet flow by interrupting power to the auger motor.
I will try that when it cools down. It's a bit of a pain going over and filling it ever 5-10 minutes. Thanks
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Does your stove light and then fizzle out?
If so you could have a failing proof of fire snap disc or the area behind where it is is ash covered.
If so you could have a failing proof of fire snap disc or the area behind where it is is ash covered.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
bchutchens said:
Do you have the installation manual usually there is an exploded parts diagram in installation manuals, if not call the manufacturer and get a copy of the technical and service manual for the stove.
Sometimes you can locate a copy of the manuals on the web and download it.
If that proof of fire switch doesn't close within a certain period of time the auger is stopped and the stove enters shutdown.
You can also have an air flow issue in the area your igniter is in that prevents the stove from lighting the pellets in time enough for the temperature at the proof of fire snap disc to close before the start up timer tells the stove to check for proof of fire.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
you indeed do have a low limit switch mounted right on the exhaust blower. Try jumping the 2 wires together and you should get the auger to work, if so replace the switch and put your old auger motor back in and it probably will work.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
wwert said:
Even here the switch may be good but the area behind it may be ash covered which can stop the snap disc from seeing the temperature it needs to see in order to close before the stove shuts down due to lack of fire.
If you do need to replace the switch see about getting an equivalent one that is ceramic if the current one is made of a plastic like material.
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