Hearth project started (With pictures)

[raybonz]

Started out by removing the old stove and hearth and found poor work done on it.. Still have no idea how I will seal against the rock chimney.. Saved the bluestone slabs for future steps to the land near the house..

Ray

 

[remkel]

Good luck with the project.

 

[raybonz]

Good luck with the project.

Thanx I'll need it!

Ray

 

[certified106]

Looking like a good start to your hearth.

 

[raybonz]

Looking like a good start to your hearth.

Thanx Cert! I have been thinking about this project constantly and I think I will just lay 2 layers of Durock then tile right on the subfloor which is 3/4" plywood.. My wife likes the looks of a lower hearth so that should work well... The hearth will be the same width extended about 1' to accomodate the deeper stove.. Not sure if I should use thinset to bond the 1st layer of Durock to the plywood.. Any ideas?

Ray

 

[begreen]

The durock is screw bonded to the subfloor, no thinset needed there. Take a long straight-edge and be sure the sub-floor is level. If not, use leveling compound to get it to a flat, level surface.

 

[raybonz]

Went to town hall and applied for a permit for the hearth (stove install is seperate permit and requires a certified sweep clean and inspect the chimney 1st) and explained my plans.. I have revised my plans to apply 2 layers of 1/2" durock directly to the the subfloor plywood followed by tiles.. Will not know until Thursday if this is OK which should be fine as the Alderlea T-5 only requires a non-combustible hearth for ember protection..

Ray

 

[certified106]

Hey I was sitting in the airport reading this thread and noticed that i'm not to far from you right now. I have been in hartford ct for a couple of days working on a development project for work.

 

[raybonz]

Hey I was sitting in the airport reading this thread and noticed that i'm not to far from you right now. I have been in hartford ct for a couple of days working on a development project for work.

Yes that's true CT is close to Mass.... maybe a 2 hr. drive depending on location.. Gonna be hot here the next couple days too!

Ray

 

[fossil]

The durock is screw bonded to the subfloor, no thinset needed there...

I have always laid Durock on thinset over plywood, then screwed it down. Screws starting in the middle somewhere and working my way out. It's what I learned from reading and asking questions. Done it many times. I would never do it without that properly laid down layer of thinset. I think it adds to the integrity of the whole floor, and helps to minimize or postpone the eventual "creaking" as the floor ages. Rick

 

[raybonz]

The durock is screw bonded to the subfloor, no thinset needed there...

I have always laid Durock on thinset over plywood, then screwed it down. Screws starting in the middle somewhere and working my way out. It's what I learned from reading and asking questions. Done it many times. I would never do it without that properly laid down layer of thinset. I think it adds to the integrity of the whole floor, and helps to minimize or postpone the eventual "creaking" as the floor ages. Rick

I was thinking of doing just that Rick.. My floors tend to be a bit creaky at times but anything to improve the install is a good idea.. I would have raised the hearth about 6" but the wife wants it low so that's what I will do..

Ray

 

[begreen]

I don't recall the tilers doing this on our tile floors, but we used 5/4 plywood for the sub-floor. No creaking there at all.

But then I checked and Rick is right, naturally. Sorry for the misinformation. :red: My memory is foggy because I didn't lay the tiles myself.

"Adhere panels to subfloor, one panel at a time. Apply latex-fortified mortar with 1/4" square-notched trowel, and immediately cover
with panel."

 

[raybonz]

I don't recall the tilers doing this on our tile floors, but we used 5/4 plywood for the sub-floor. No creaking there at all.

But then I checked and Rick is right, naturally. Sorry for the misinformation. :red: My memory is foggy because I didn't lay the tiles myself.

"Adhere panels to subfloor, one panel at a time. Apply latex-fortified mortar with 1/4" square-notched trowel, and immediately cover
with panel."

Good advice I will use thinset to the plywood for the 1st layer of Durock.. Thanx!

Ray

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Hey Ray,
Good luck with your project. Looks like you got a good start so far. Did you ever find a stove? I knew you had one lined up on CL, but someone slid under the radar on you.

 

[raybonz]

Hey Ray,
Good luck with your project. Looks like you got a good start so far. Did you ever find a stove? I knew you had one lined up on CL, but someone slid under the radar on you.

Hey thanx!

Yes we bought an Alderlea T-5 explained in another post because the boss liked it.. I think it will do a good job.. Today we went to Best Tile and wow what a store! The salesperson was a weath of knowledge and we ended up buying 6"x6" tile for 99cents a square foot.. Reg. price was $10.00 per sq. ft. and it was clearance so we bought an extra carton.. I made the mistake of buying the cement board there (Permabase) which I never heard of and will return it as it is not suitable for a hearth floor (I called the company an hr. ago to confirm this).. I was amazed all the colors grout could be bought in and made a nice match with a special additive to make this a forever done job asd far as sealing the grout goes.. I think it will look good when done (at least I hope so!)...More to come! Should hear from the bldg. inspector tomorrow and hopefully my plan will be approved..

Ray

 

[raybonz]

Dumb question... Are 1- 1/4" long cement backer board screws adequate for both layers (2) of cement board, both layers will be screwed in seperately?

Ray

 

[certified106]

Dumb question... Are 1- 1/4" long cement backer board screws adequate for both layers (2) of cement board, both layers will be screwed in seperately?

Ray

If you are adding thinset between layers than you might want a longer screw other wise it will probably work.
Just out of curiosity what did you have down on your hearth before since the Dutchwest actually requires more than just floor protection or did you have the bottom heat shield?

 

[raybonz]

Dumb question... Are 1- 1/4" long cement backer board screws adequate for both layers (2) of cement board, both layers will be screwed in seperately?

Ray

If you are adding thinset between layers than you might want a longer screw other wise it will probably work.
Just out of curiosity what did you have down on your hearth before since the Dutchwest actually requires more than just floor protection or did you have the bottom heat shield?

I had 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" thick bluestone slabs and the CDW stove had a bottom heat shield.. I will be using thinset between all layers and they will be screwed in seperately.. My old hearth was too small and definitely not legal.. This will make it legal.. The floor never even got warm with the CDW stove..

Ray

 

[begreen]

Dumb question... Are 1- 1/4" long cement backer board screws adequate for both layers (2) of cement board, both layers will be screwed in seperately?

Ray

That's too short. The screws should be long enough to go through both layers of the cement board and get a firm bite in the sub-floor. I would use 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" screws.

 

[raybonz]

Dumb question... Are 1- 1/4" long cement backer board screws adequate for both layers (2) of cement board, both layers will be screwed in seperately?

Ray

That's too short. The screws should be long enough to go through both layers of the cement board and get a firm bite in the sub-floor. I would use 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" screws.

Yup kinda thought so .. Will pick up longer screws for the 2nd layer of Durock..

Thanx!

Ray

 

[raybonz]

OK so I cut all the Durock ands yes it is Nexgen which is fine for the new stove and here are the dry fit pics.. Tomorrow I will secure and tape the Durock and get that inspected.. I think it's going to look great!!

Ray

 

[greythorn3]

hey whats the name of that tile you got there? it looks like the sedona slate from lowes i got for my setup. mines a porcelean tile not the real thing.

 

[raybonz]

hey whats the name of that tile you got there? it looks like the sedona slate from lowes i got for my setup. mines a porcelean tile not the real thing.

These are made by Rex an Italian company and they are porcelain.. I got a great deal on them as they were only 99 cents a sq. ft.... Originally they were $9.99 a sq. ft... They are called Rouil Argent and are supposed to look like rusted metal.. Interesting look and they are 6"x6" ... I bought extra as they will be discontinued and they came from Best Tile.. They have an excellent assortment of tile and the clearance tiles are a real bargain! I think this hearth will look great when it's all done

Ray

 

[certified106]

Wow, I really like the color of the tile! The whole thing is looking great and it' doesn't look like you have that much more to do. I meant to ask you if you got the porcelain T5 or the traditional black cast?

 

[raybonz]

Wow, I really like the color of the tile! The whole thing is looking great and it' doesn't look like you have that much more to do. I meant to ask you if you got the porcelain T5 or the traditional black cast?

Thanx Cert! I think the color is really interesting and for a bargain price to boot! The color we got for the T-5 is the traditional black painted not the enamel.. I still have to take the hearth apart and thinset and screw all the cement board down to the floor.. I will have minimal if any tile cutting to do and I will add concrete patch to blend the tile to the chimney rock.. I laid out tile out to determine what size to cut the Durock so I could avoid tile cuts.. I will say having a chimney like this makes hearth planning difficult for someone like me who has never done tiling or even seen it done for that matter.. Hope it all comes out nice..

Ray