Hearthstone H1

[mass_burner]

Local ad, worth it? Looking for good size basement stove.

(broken link removed to http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/hsh/5206035168.html)

 

[DAKSY]

I suggest you try to see the inside of that unit. "Little Use over the years" doesn't mean much if it was abused during that usage.
Cast Iron parts inside those older Hearthstones take a beating from the heat.
You don't wanna spend a lot of money rebuilding it.

 

[CTcountrylife]

It's absolutely not worth it in my opinion. We had a H1 in our home from 2011 until this summer when we bought a new VC Defiant. We have a 1700sq ft antique colonial and it heated the house awesome, it just ate through our wood and demanded our attention often. The heat output is serious, but you'll find yourself filling it often and going through a lot of wood. It doesn't do slow burns very well either. The primary air hole on the back left of the stove wasn't manufactured well enough to precisely control air flow. So, if you are looking for a long slow burn overnight, the stove always seems to let in more air than desirable. It's not actually air tight even though they called it that back in the day. After taking our's apart, I learned that the soapstones have long metal plates in between them keeping them in place... which explains why I always suspected extra air was making it into the stove.

On top of its inefficiency issues, the stove is 800lbs. It comes apart in pieces, but that wouldn't be worth the ordeal, especially for this stove. Yes, it's a classic and a beast with heat output, but it's not worth actually paying for. People should be giving this stove away for free with a trade off that the new owner does all the removal labor.

Probably the best place for a H1 stove is a large daytime workshop. It heats up fast. People are around to tend to it. And it isn't needed for a slow night burn.

 

[CTcountrylife]

I agree with Daksy. Our H1 was manufactured in 1981. The cast iron plates were being to crack and other parts had worn down also, which helped contribute to the fast burns. After taking our's apart, there were a lot of areas that had worn down and contributed to the stove's inefficiency.

 

[begreen]

Could be decent if in good shape internally. These stoves had a single, steel burn tube, down low and fully exposed to the heat of the fire. The tube can burn out and once compromised will push a blob of air into the middle of the fire, which in turn overheats the baffle above and warps it. Wood consumption goes up terribly when this happens. Check carefully for the condition of the burn tube by visual inspection and running your hand over it to feel for cracks or tears on the backside of the tube. Then carefully inspect the upper baffle for warps or cracks. If none then the stove could be fine. It is not as efficient as modern stoves but not a bad stove when in good working order. I helped a friend rehab his and it does a nice job of heating their place comfortably. It's thermostatically controlled and burns well when fed large thick logs. They reload around every 6-8 hrs. IIRC. The heat is nice and even.

PS: Replacing the burn tube is very easy on these units and a worthwhile piece of preventative maintenance.

 

[fbelec]

hey bob i think with heat output of that stove it might be to much for a basement. i have the smaller brother the h2 in my basement and it heats well but if your looking to fire it for a few hours while your down there that might be a problem also. it take about 2 hours to come up to full temp. like building a fire in a rock.

 

[mass_burner]

Yea, I'll pass on it. I'm trying to find a good size stove, none of the heat will go to waste, all of the ceiling is exposed with no interior basement walls.

 

[begreen]

I would just go new in that case. For value consider either a Drolet or an Englander 3 cu ft stove.

 

[mass_burner]

I would just go new in that case. For value consider either a Drolet or an Englander 3 cu ft stove.

The fireplace has a 16" deep, 13" high, 71" wide hearth. I was thinking insert.

 

[begreen]

What are the actual fireplace dimensions? Can the budget be expanded? If not I think you will be constrained to a 2 cu ft or less insert from Englander, Century or Drolet. The hearth will likely need to be extended at floor level with a simple hearthpad unless the floor is non-combustible

 

[mass_burner]

Opening is 45 x 28 1/4. It angles in at the sides, so its 35 1/3 wide in the rear. Its 22" deep along the bottom, but also angles forward from the rear, so the top opening is 13 1/2

 

[begreen]

In the budget range there are the Englander 13NCi and Century CW2500 inserts.
(broken link removed to http://www.amfmenergy.com/50tnc13i--epa-certified-noncatalytic-wood-stove--1550131500.html)
(broken link removed to http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/Wood-Fireplaces-Stoves-Inserts/Century-Heating-Wood-Insert-w-Blower-CW2500-p15787.html)

 

[mass_burner]

I may be able to stretch the budget to ~2500. The liner needs to go up a long way, that will be expensive..

 

[begreen]

The Drolet Escape 1800i is 2.4 cu ft for around $1100.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200577755_200577755

 

[mass_burner]

The Drolet Escape 1800i is 2.4 cu ft for around $1100.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200577755_200577755

That's a pretty nice looking stove., but 26 1/2 deep, will that fit?

 

[begreen]

26.5" is the full depth from blower to back. It only needs 16.75" depth behind the surround.

 

[mass_burner]

When do you use flexible ss liner as opposed to rigid liner?

 

[begreen]

When a straight shot of pipe can't negotiate anomalies in the chimney. Some sweeps use it all the time. Very often it helps to end in a short section of flex to negotiate through the damper area.

 

[mass_burner]

When a straight shot of pipe can't negotiate anomalies in the chimney. Some sweeps use it all the time. Very often it helps to end in a short section of flex to negotiate through the damper area.

Is there any reason not to use all flexible, insulated ss liner?

 

[begreen]

Not really.

 

[mass_burner]

Not really.

I was thinking of picking up this liner, but this what they said about insulating it:

DuraFlex Stainless Steel Flex Kit — 35ft., Model# 6DF304-35K

This Flex Kit is meant to be used in an existing chimney, for this application no insulation is needed, and insulation is not available through Northern Tool.

 

[begreen]

I'd shop around a bit. There are other liners out there. chimneylinerdepot and Rockford Chimney Supply are two big companies selling liners. A poster just ordered his liner via discountchimneysupply and has been pleased with their prices and service. I've had good luck with woodstovepro.com.

 

[mass_burner]

I'd shop around a bit. There are other liners out there. chimneylinerdepot and Rockford Chimney Supply are two big companies selling liners. A poster just ordered his liner via discountchimneysupply and has been pleased with their prices and service. I've had good luck with woodstovepro.com.

what brand is a safe choice? My chimney is in the center of the house, and runs vertically from the basement floor up through the roof. 5 flus.

 

[begreen]

bholler likes to see as heavy as possible. I like rigid if there's room. The only stuff that folks recommend staying away from seems to be the 2 ply stuff. It can pucker and separate on the interior. A good brand is ForeverFlex.
http://www.discountchimneysupply.com/forever_flex_6.html

Now that you are looking to install a modern insert you might want to start a new thread in the main hearth forum for more user feedback.

 

[mass_burner]

Right, fogot where I was. Thanks.