Well, every install would probably be a little different I'm sure...and it depends somewhat on where the water connections are on the tanks you are using...but the basics are that hot water will rise and cold water will fall...so you plumb it so that can happen...might need to raise one of the tanks up some to give enough rise/fall to the plumbing to make it work well...notice the pipe connections are on the side of the Richmond HPWH, and kinda low, so that helps...might need to use the drain line connector of the storage tank to tee into the cold water inlet of the HPWH(?)...if you do an internet search for water heater thermosiphon storage, something along those lines, there's tons of info/ideas out thereHow would you set up two heaters so that one would heat the other via thermosiphon
I did some thinking about the most efficient way to duct. My conclusion was that if you were interested in the dehumidifying intake and exhaust must be in from/ out to your conditioned space. You may be able to to run I a. It more efficiency during the summer by intaking warm outside air but you exhaust it inside you are pressuring the conditioned space and forcing your cold air out. If you reverse that during to winter you will need to make up air from outside and it most of the time would be colder than the exhaust temp. I am considering intake from the the conditioned basement and exhaust it up stairs. my basement is always colder than the main floor so this would help the basement stay warmer in the winter (some) and the main floor be cooler in the summer. As a related point here is an infrared picture of my heater closet. Intake is outside the closet at the ceiling of the room and exhaust is just ducted pointed to the floor of the closet with louvered doors. So you can see the thermal gradient ( no scale here but I’m guessing is about 5-7 degrees different from top of closet to the bottom).I was just reading the technical data sheet on the Richmond HPWH from Menards. What are your thoughts on the ducted options? Is there ever a time you would want to intake or exhaust air from/to the attic? How about connecting the intake to a wood furnace? Just rambling here....
Sounds like a good idea for small apts . They already have a combo Stove sink and fridge in one.I wondered before if anybody offers a fridge/water heater combo...heat from the fridge goes into the water, cool from the water goes into the fridge...I'd think it could be done with 1 compressor unit too...would just need a line set between the 2 units...
That probably would have been easier and resolved the scalding problem at the same time.Why didnt you just turn up the water heater and install a mixing valve? Lots of standby by heat loss with 2 WH.
Any new findings?It just so happens that our water heater is directly below our refrigerator, that doesn't seem like a bad idea. My oldest son brought home kill-o-watt meter and at a maximum output on his PC, it drew 365 watts. When he put it in sleep mode, it was 3 watts....so that's not too bad. I have a clamp ammeter and I'm currently investigating some of the usage, however I still suspect the water heater.
Unfortunately we have an old septic system with no aerator. I suspect here in the future we will need a new system.....yikes! I have thought about the well, however we have a newer poly line and up to about 2 or so years ago upgraded from an old jet pump to a submersible. Going from 20-40 to 50-70 with the well. I upgraded the well system not only due to maintenance but for savings. The old system had a 3/4 hp pump that would run forever to get up to 40 pounds.In thinking about this a bit more, in addition to making sure your well pump is not running more than it needs to (for one of several possible reasons) I'm sure you are probably on a septic system out there...if you have an aerator motor in the tank, need to make sure that it is not wound up with hair, rags, etc...it happens, and that will make a dent in the ole electric bill...also should check to see if the aerator is on a timer, they often are, and it could fail "on"...although they do often fail "off" too...that causes different problems
With nightly bath tub soaks by multiple residents and your hard working bones, have you considered a hot tub? They’re awesome. Then a shower to be clean.
Admittedly the modern spas require a surprisingly small amount of power too but they don’t overload your septic, your water heater, and you might actually save power plus gain immense enjoyment. Bonus, you can actually talk to your family since phones don’t mix with water!
Don't go there lol. My wife wants either an extension to the pool deck or the patio on the pool for a hot tub. I've been avoiding the thing like the plague since I mainly take care of the pool. I've heard horror stories with our friends having 150.00 or more in excess with usage from a spa.
Can I hear any pros or cons to brands. I was all for ao smith but now I’m leaning towards rheem. No menards around here. Home Depot, Lowes and plumbing supply places
AOSmith and State are the same company. I was impressed that AOSmith actually honored their warranty, so that says something about them as a company. I bought my unit from Ferguson plumbing supply. Personally, I’d buy the unit with the highest COP, the least amount of noise for the least amount of money. I’d say they all are pretty much the same internally.Can I hear any pros or cons to brands. I was all for ao smith but now I’m leaning towards rheem. No menards around here. Home Depot, Lowes and plumbing supply places
I’d agree that their support was lacking until I got someone on the phone that had a clue. Once I got the correct person on the phone, the support was stellar. Getting the replacement HPHW was a very seamless process too.Thanks fellas, the plumbing supply place told me the same about state owning ao smith. Just based off the reviews, ao Smith support seems lacking when there is a problem. I’ve read them is quieter compared to ao, also no WiFi. I’ll obsess over this a few more weeks.
So I'll be installing the new water heater this weekend. Since the joists are basically touching the top of the unit, I'll need to restructure to give proper clearances (minimum). What I am wondering about is currently I have a peak load management system on the current heater and I'm unsure if those types of systems are compatible. I feel I should remove the peak buster since the new unit is much more efficient. Either way I'm excited and can't wait to see the results.
Break/bend the old one as it comes out.I am assuming the peak load system is managed by your utility company?? I guessing the heatpump uses about 500-700 watts. Don’t see it being useful. The power off-on startup routine on mine runs through a self diagnostic. Takes several minutes to complete. I would prefer not to have routine power disruptions to but it probably would not hurt anything.
I don’t have full 8’ ceilings but didn’t have a clearance issues but I am wondering how one would change out the anode rod? Tip it over?