Help needed with Alderlea T6 door seal

[Sean in the woods]

I have a 3 year old Pacific Energy Alderlea T6. I replaced the door gasket yesterday and have a great seal on the sides and bottom, but not the top.

I cleaned and wire brushed the gasket channels before pressing in the new gasket. The door pins looked to be in good condition.

But…

After letting it sit with the door closed all night, I tested the fit with a folded strip of printer paper (because I couldn’t find paper money). The paper is clamped tight on both sides and the bottom but is loose enough on the top, from corner to corner, to slide sideways.

I am baffled. Every thing looks good.

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

Had you ever tested the door previously with the OEM gasket itself and how was that fit ?

Did you overstretch the door gasket at the top thinning it out too much ?

 

[begreen]

Was the replacement gasket the OEM part? If yes, look at the door to side panel gap on the hinge side. Is it equal top to bottom. If slightly larger at the top, the top of the frame that holds the hinge pin may need to be adjusted inward a tiny bit, like 1/16". There is a nut there with a washer on it.

If no, start again with the OEM gasket and use a good RTV silicone for the adhesive. a 1/4" bead will suffice. Gently bed the new gasket in the RTV without stretching. Close the stove door when done and let it set up for at least 12 hrs.

 

[Highbeam]

Did you “press it in” more at the top?

 

[Sean in the woods]

Had you ever tested the door previously with the OEM gasket itself and how was that fit ?

Did you overstretch the door gasket at the top thinning it out too much ?

I did and, as I recall, it was never as tight as the other edges, but was “ok”.

 

[Sean in the woods]

Was the replacement gasket the OEM part? If yes, look at the door to side panel gap on the hinge side. Is it equal top to bottom. If slightly larger at the top, the top of the frame that holds the hinge pin may need to be adjusted inward a tiny bit, like 1/16". There is a nut there with a washer on it.

If no, start again with the OEM gasket and use a good RTV silicone for the adhesive. a 1/4" bead will suffice. Gently bed the new gasket in the RTV without stretching. Close the stove door when done and let it set up for at least 12 hrs.

The replacement is an OEM part.

YES! Ding ding ding! There is a slightly larger gap at the top. About 1/32nd”.

I pressed the self stick strip of the gasket to the bottom of the channel. Not good enough?

Also, I didn’t know you could stretch the gasket. I’ll watch for that the next time.

Once the stove cools I’ll look for that nut.

Thanks.

 

[Sean in the woods]

Did you “press it in” more at the top?

I didn’t think so, but possible.

 

[begreen]

The replacement is an OEM part.

YES! Ding ding ding! There is a slightly larger gap at the top. About 1/32nd”.

I pressed the self stick strip of the gasket to the bottom of the channel. Not good enough?

Also, I didn’t know you could stretch the gasket. I’ll watch for that the next time.

Once the stove cools I’ll look for that nut.

Thanks.

Good deal for getting the OEM gasket. Personally, I don't trust the self-stick. We hear of too many stoves where the gasket has become unstuck, watch for this.

You can see the bolt head thru the trivet grate. It's close to the top of the door hinge pin.

 

[Sean in the woods]

The door adjustment was at the limit of its adjustable range, so I cut the top section of door gasket off and while replacing it I compressed it, packing more in to make it fill more gap.

FIXED.

Thanks all.

 

[FarmerDan]

@Sean in the woods and other t6-ers - where do you get your door/glass gaskets? and what sizes/lengths do you purchase?

I don't have a great lead on local dealers in my neck of the woods. Here are the sizes that I try to find from internet shops, I am curious if that matches what you get:
- door gasket - 5/16" rope x 7 feet
- glass gasket - 13/16" W x 1/8" H, self adhesive, ideally 60+"

thanks

 

[begreen]

That sounds correct. I think stovepartsforless.com has these parts.

 

[FarmerDan]

Thanks, @begreen - great to hear from you!

How about baffle gaskets? Do you have a source for those these days? I haven't found any great source for precut ones, and I don't have any leads on local dealers. I think my @Hogwildz rope loop needs replacing.

I found a pottery kiln supply shop that sells ceramic blankets and "ceramic paper" used for insulating kilns - all rated to go to 2300F. I aim to purchase some of that, and make myself a handful of baffle gaskets.

 

[begreen]

I plan on trying the same thing. I used to get a 5 pak of gaskets from Tom, but the shop is closed now. There is a good PE shop about 35 miles away, but they don't mail parts. My rope gasket is shot after 5 or 6 yrs. It raises the rear of the baffle a bit more than desired so I picked up a sheet of ceramic fiber gasket material to try out this summer.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I found my local shop was closed too. The 1 over an hour away no longer sold PEs! Luckily they’d order and mail me the gaskets.