Help with Timberline !!

[woody2272]

I have a 1980 Timberline 2 door stove insert (essentially a Fischer clone) that we purchased and ran for about 6 years and have not used since. Always burned good - provided plenty of heat even with no blower BUT was not very efficient and of course used a lot of wood. I moved into a newer home a few years ago and brought the stove with me. I want to install it in my current brick and stone fire place. I have heard of people upgrading these with stainless steel tube baffles and even a secondary burn setup. Can anyone direct me to a site or set of instructions to see what I can do. to make this at least a bit more efficient. Also, when the stove was installed originally the flue pipe was never run to the top of the chimney but only about 4 feet up from the stove. I know this is code now but I'm not sure if it was back in 1980 but the stove ran just fine with no issues. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[bholler]

I have a 1980 Timberline 2 door stove insert (essentially a Fischer clone) that we purchased and ran for about 6 years and have not used since. Always burned good - provided plenty of heat even with no blower BUT was not very efficient and of course used a lot of wood. I moved into a newer home a few years ago and brought the stove with me. I want to install it in my current brick and stone fire place. I have heard of people upgrading these with stainless steel tube baffles and even a secondary burn setup. Can anyone direct me to a site or set of instructions to see what I can do. to make this at least a bit more efficient. Also, when the stove was installed originally the flue pipe was never run to the top of the chimney but only about 4 feet up from the stove. I know this is code now but I'm not sure if it was back in 1980 but the stove ran just fine with no issues. Thanks in advance for any help.

Can't help much with adding secondary air. But what you had is called a direct connect. And technically it can still meet code. But your chimney needs to be up to code which most are not. The clay liners also have to be sized appropriately 8x12 would work 12x12 wouldn't. You also have to connect to the clay somehow

 

[woody2272]

I read on this site about a guy up partially upgraded a fisher stove with just a 5/16 plate on an angle above the fire and that alone increased the efficiency of the stove. Could that simple plate supported by 2 bricks work on my 2 door timberline as it seems to be similar to the fisher models. Can anyone point me to instructions/pics/etc as to how to accomplish this. I have unlimited wood and I just want to get a better slower burn without closing down the air supply and creating a creasote problem. Thanks